.270 Poor Accuracy Help Needed

[Badbob]

Friends

I have a Remington 700 .270 ADL SS Mountain Rifle. It has the twig thick SS barrel and plastic black stock. The gun has never shot better than 1.25" at 100 yards. I'm living in colorado now and need something to reach out 300-400 yards to get to the allusive speed goat. So I'm ready to invest some $$ to bring this gun up to speed.

The same gun gets used for Elk and deer.

Currently it has a factory trigger that I polished and tuned to be around 2lbs. Not much creep, and is crisp and clean.

Tasco pronghorn 4-12x scope, about 20 years old

Action is bedded and the barrel is free floating.

I've hand loaded with 90g HPs and 130 SBT and never have gotten them better than about 1.25" I know I have skills because I shoot a friends 6mmPPC around .25 at a 100 yards.

So where do I begin?

Friend says go with a laminated stock first, then scope, then barrel.

Should I just sell it and start fresh?

Give me some ideas?

Thanks

Badbob

 

[fredhorace77]

Actually that's good accuracy for afactory gun that light. maybe try a different scope but there's not alot u can do without making the gun heavier

 

[Badbob]

hey thanks . .. I guess I left that out . .. I'm willing to add a few pounds to get better accuracy.

Badbob

 

[bheadboy]

in the 270 with the 130 sierra SBT or the 150 Nos BT for mulie and elk, i found that 4350 was the best powder. jumping .020

The light bbl is not a real problem if you do you group shooting slow enough to keep it from getting hot.

The stocks are a bummer, the one you have i believe is subject to flexing in the grip area if pressure is on it down or to the sides,

Try, shooting with little cheek and no trigger hand pressure, with just mild shoulder pressure, if it shoots then your option is to go to a better stock, even an eariler wooden one would be good free floated and bedded.

Bob

 

[Badbob]

Thanks Bob

Basically that is what I'm hearing . .. the stock is the weak link and the first thing that needs to be upgraded since it flexes. That might alone might tighten it up.

I would think investing in a decent scope and rings might be step #2

Badbob

 

[trailrider121]

I would go over rifle and make sure everything looks good. Make sure barrel channel is clear of debris, action bolt are torqued, barrel is clean of copper, etc. I would try a different scope, and while you there check bases and rings too. Most 270's will shoot 130gr 60.0grs H4831 and or 55grs. Imr 4350. Good luck.

 

[Lapua40X]

After aligning and torquing everything, I'd look at the Tasco pronghorn 4-12x scope, about 20 years old, and see how it holds its zero.

 

[abishai]

A bell an carlson aluminum bedded stock may be the solution to your problems . my 7mag (same set up ) went from 1 1/2 down to 3/4 with the change out. H4831 with 140 sst should serve you well

 

[wapiti25]

A custom barrel with a good chamber would give you the most improvement.

 

[Badbob]

A bell an carlson aluminum bedded stock may be the solution to your problems . my 7mag (same set up ) went from 1 1/2 down to 3/4 with the change out. H4831 with 140 sst should serve you well

I looked last night at the gun. The Tasco is 3-9x. Weaver bases and rings, the kind that are a metal strap that is screwed down by two screws on one side of the ring.


What is a good procedure for checking zero? I assume you mean making sure that the reticle is not moving and the hold scope system is static?

If the scope is junk what would be acceptable brands to consider that won't kill my budget: Leupold, Vortex, Burris?

Thx.

Robert

 

[Badbob]

A custom barrel with a good chamber would give you the most improvement.

I was thinking about a laminated stock from Richard's Microfit web site . . . I've heard the laminated birch is solid and stable. What are your thoughts about those stocks?

What would be the best way to bed the action.

Badbob

 

[Badbob]

A custom barrel with a good chamber would give you the most improvement.

If i was going to go witha new barrel, should I consider changing the caliber. Bare in mind I have dies, brass and bullets already for .270. But .270 not worth the time and energy?

Badbob

 

[Radar]

Take a look at the Boyds stocks if you want a good cheap stock,also I wouldn't give up on the barrel after trying two different bullets. If it doesn't go with Sierra 130 or 140 and 130/140 Accubonds then maybe.

 

[Lapua40X]

What is a good procedure for checking zero? I assume you mean making sure that the reticle is not moving and the hold scope system is static?

If the scope is junk what would be acceptable brands to consider that won't kill my budget: Leupold, Vortex, Burris?

Yes, checking to be certain the scope doesn't "slip" its settings between shots is what I mean by checking it's ability to maintain zero. Probably not the best way I could have said that but you got the idea. Instead of fooling around with experiments that might or might not prove the point one way or another, I'd simply install another scope of known quality with some quality rings/mounts and see how that affected your groups. You could play with that Tasco for a lot of hours and never be absolutely certain of it's reliability without making sure it was holding completely still and immovable in whatever mount you might have available.
As far as ",..If the scope is junk what would be acceptable brands...". The answer to the list you provided is, yes.

 

[ScottMcc]

I have a 700 bdl in 270 that had accuracy proplems, but it was my fault. When my dad gave it to me in the 70's no one talked about proper barrel break in. So we went out and shot 60 straight rounds through it, and needless to say, it was severely copper fouled. Assuming your barrel is clean, your most cost effective improvement will probably come from changing the stock. There are a lot of factory takeoffs for sale on ebay, and you could get a much better stock like an sps tactical or varmint for pretty cheap.

 

[mattri]

A new barrel, a new stock etc could very well solve your problems. At the same time there is something to be said for a nice light hunting rifle, and synthetic stocks take weather and abuse pretty well. Being bedded and floated, with a nice crisp trigger is even better.

You mention using 90 and 130 grain bullets, have you tried others?

Some guns are pretty picky about what they'll shoot. When I lived and hunted in WY I had a very similar set up to yours, factory rifle in .270 win, 22" sporter barrel and synthetic stock. It wouldn't shoot 90s, 130s or 150s but it came alive with 140s.

The 270 is such an awesome round for the kind of hunting you're describing, and it sounds like you have a great platform to work off of. If it were me, I'd pick up a few different weights of good hunting bullets, 140s, 150s, maybe 130s in a different brand etc and a few powders, H4831 seems to be a go to for the 270 and worked wonders in mine, but as stated above there are other good ones as well.

With a relatively small investment you may find a load that really shines in that gun.

Best of luck, let us know how it turns out.

 

[MrMajestic]

But .270 not worth the time and energy?
Badbob
[/quote]

Jack O'Conner would have begged to differ with you! ???

 

[mattri]

As would the mulies, pronghorns, elk and coyotes that dropped to mine. The 270 is one of the best hunting rounds out there, its biggest faults are that it isn't shiny and new, doesn't have "magnum" in its name and isn't being pushed as the latest and greatest round on the market.

Also, if you do decide to replace the scope check out the new Redfield revolutions. They're made by Leupold, have the same warranty, are very bright and crisp- and are a great bargain as well.

 

[Danny1788]

I would check your scope base screws in the front base, 9 out of ten times I cut down the first screw so it doesnt contact the barrel threads. I see this alot with remingtons and savages but i just picked up a new winchester and the talley rings i put on it i had to cut down the front screw becuase it was touching the barrel threads. Which can put pressure on the barrel and make it not group consistent. The way i check this take both screws out of the base and then reinstall just the front screw and see if the base is tight by wiggling it back and forth, usually its loose which tells you the screw is touching the barrel threads and not clamping down the base. Just something i have learned to check for on all rifles now.

 

[BoydAllen]

What kind of rest and bag setup are you using, and where on the forend is the front bag making contact? Are you sling swivel studs making contact with the bags? What type of hold do you use when shooting the rifle at the bench. I see a lot of fellows who have these kinds of issues. I can sit them down behind my 6PPC and they can shoot a small group, but the method and things to watch out for when shooting a tupperware stock in a caliber that recoils are a lot different. It has been pretty common to cut fellows groups in half because of these sorts of issues. How much parallax do you have at 100 yd.? What kind of load workup procedure did you use? How do you clean the barrel? Did you break it in?