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26" or 28" barrel on 260?

I am rebarreling a TRG in 260, and was curious if I would notice a difference in velocity between a 26" and 28" barrel. Planning to shoot the 142 SMK or 140 Berger hybrid with H4350. I know 2" isn't much, but thought with a heavy for caliber bullet and slow burning powder, it might make a difference.
 
Catgunguy said:
If you are looking at shooting 1000yrd. targets, go with as long a barrel as you can. It will make a difference.

I agree 100%. Its the distance that will dictate the choice of barrel length. Keep it long for 600 - 1K and the shorter length for under 600 yds.
 
What's the application? Target only rifle or hunting as well? Longer barrel will give you more speed but be heavier to carry while hunting and harder to maneuver in the field. 25fps per inch is a pretty good estimate for speed gain.
 
Corey Schwanz said:
What's the application? Target only rifle or hunting as well? Longer barrel will give you more speed but be heavier to carry while hunting and harder to maneuver in the field. 25fps per inch is a pretty good estimate for speed gain.

Thanks for all of your input!!! Mostly using it for precision/tactical, so I think I'll stick with the 26" plus brake. May shoot an occasional F-Class, but usually shoot F-T/R with a 308. I don't think the added weight and bulk of a 28" (+brake) is worth the extra velocity.
 
dmoran said:
In regards to weight difference from a 28" down to a 26", and not knowing what contour your planning to use, but in any regards a Straight 1.250"-diameter barrel weighs 0.326-lbs per inch (5.2-oz), and far less on hunting/varmint contoured barrels (depending on the contour).

I recommend you cut off the shank instead of the muzzle if you want to save more weight on a contoured barrel.
Donovan

Using a Bartlein barrel with a Rem Varmint contour. It only has a 2" shank, so I may not want to cut too much. Good idea though! I never considered that when building my F-T/R gun and had to count ounces.
 
dmoran said:
FTRinPA

It only has a 2" shank, so I may not want to cut too much.
Betting it only has a 1.250 Shank, not a 2"...... and is tapered to .840".

On a Bartlein Rem Varmint contour you would only be saving .137-lbs /\ 2.2-oz per Inch when cut off the muzzle end.

Donovan

Donovan,
The shank diameter is 1.250", but the shank length before tapering is 2". Thanks for the info on weight. If cutting 2" at the muzzle only gets me 1/4 lb, maybe the extra velocity is worth it.
 
I got started in LR shooting in the NRA LR HP format, where 30" bbls are the norm rather than an exception. When I started building my own tactical/practical rifles, I went with 28" bbls on most bolt rifles. However, adding a brake makes these bbls so long that they're not maneuverable when shooting around & through props match directors like to come up with. And if you use a suppressor....well, I've finally stopped being so hard-headed about bbl length, and now typically go with 26" as a finished length, in chamberings including 223AI, 6x47 or 6.5x47 Lapua, & 260 Imp 30*. Still have one bbl at 28" on a 284 Win, and a 30" hvy Palma on a 280AI, but these rifles see very little use other than playing at 1000yds. I loved shooting the 284 in a semi-local steel match because it's stupid accurate, but it's overkill, and the blast out of its brake is hard on other shooters.
 
for what its worth if your still debating on it... I run a 28 inch barrel on my 260 tactical... 140 bergers, and H4350.. Chrono data says, and ballistic calculators jive very well with my adjustments that it's pushing these 140 bergers at 2963fps. I run a brux heavy varmint contour with ross schulers brake. It's alittle long for in a deer blind, but proned out I wouldnt change a thing.
 
Sniper338 said:
for what its worth if your still debating on it... I run a 28 inch barrel on my 260 tactical... 140 bergers, and H4350.. Chrono data says, and ballistic calculators jive very well with my adjustments that it's pushing these 140 bergers at 2963fps. I run a brux heavy varmint contour with ross schulers brake. It's alittle long for in a deer blind, but proned out I wouldnt change a thing.

That's humming! Any pressure signs on your brass? I would be happy with 2800-2850 with the same set-up. Did you use a custom reamer for the chamber? If so, do you know the specs?

I was planning to use the rifle primarily for tactical/precision shooting, so I am more concerned about it being bulky.
 
Its a ptg reamer from dave kiff that my gunsmith had on hand made for running berger 140s... no pressure signs at all. Its not a higher end load. I could push it faster still but accuacy starts to suffer. Its just the sweet spot. I have no problem shooting proned out and off a bench, but 28 inches and with a brake at that is too long for deer blinds or most hunting situations.. its heavy too...
 

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