250 Savage to 22-250 Rem

[johnvic]

I have searched but probably in all the wrong places. Can someone tell me what is involved in forming 250 Savage brass to 22-250??
Thanks,
JT

 

[Kodiak99317]

Run them into your 22-250 die until the bolt just closes on an empty case with out the firing pin in the bolt, and your done. Possibly maybe have to thin the neck walls too if the necks get too thick.

 

[Asa_Yam]

JT,

The question is "why do it" when .22-250 brass is readily available?

I don't think there's any difference in internal dimensions between the two,i.e., .250 Savage brass is no stronger than that of .22-250).

If you're after a stronger case, start with .243 Winchester or 6x47 Lapua brass. Be prepared to do a fair amount of case prep if you go down this route.

 

[johnvic]

I shoot mostly benchrest but I have a factory 22-250 Savage and it shoots really well with factory Hornady 50gr V-Max ammo, I wanted to see if I could improve or duplicate the factory ammo by reloading some for it but when I used a neck size only die the small donut close to the base of the brass would not allow a Wilson bullet seater die to fit over the brass, then I went to a full length die, the bullet seater problem was solved but the brass strecthed some in the full length die and caused a very hard bolt cosing when chambering. I think I will grind the shell holder down a little and see if I can bump the shoulder a little and see if that solves the problem, I have lots of once fired Hornady brass to use. Someone told me to go to 250 Savage brass and I wasn't familiar with it.
Thanks,
JT

 

[Preacher]

I don't mean to be rude but I think your not full length sizing your cases enough, and that is causing the problem. Most 22/250 dies would not need the shell holder ground down to fix the problem, and they usually turn a bit of the die down instead of the shell holder. You could also get a small base body die to solve the problem.
To much good 22/250 brass around to fool around with redoing 250 savage brass.....

 

[johnvic]

Think I'll go with the body die and use the neck die that I have, I ground a few 1/000's off a shell holder and things went together very nicely but the straight full length die didn't give me the flexibility that I wanted in neck tention.
Thanks for all the info and help. After getting set up for 30BR and 6PPC, I would never have thought that a factory type load could be so much trouble, or maybe I've become too picky!!
Regards,
JT

 

[johnvic]

"Age is a high price to pay for maturity"

Very sound advice, finding that is true more each day..
JT

 

[tightneck]

Don't do the body die...Redding type S FL bushing die is what you need. The body die is just an extra step. I assume you fl size your ppc and br with every firing? Do the same with the 22/250. Size just to bump the shoulder just a thou or two and use the proper bushing to achieve proper neck tension.