22RF head space

[Dusty Stevens]

Not a machinist or even play one on TV....

On an action that the rim cup is in the breech and not the bolt, how do you cut it?

I am assuming when you are reaching your target length on your chamber you have to be very careful with that reamer to not pass it and go too deep?

Never seen that type of action so i guess youd have to cut in the rim or use a different reamer

 

[68Hoyt]

Iirc
Like a Remington 580/1/2 , the bolt breech face is flat and the barrel breech face has the rim recess , they make reamers to cut the rim recess

 

[Emmett Dibble]

Iirc
Like a Remington 580/1/2 , the bolt breech face is flat and the barrel breech face has the rim recess , they make reamers to cut the rim recess

Actually exactly what I was thinking of… only because I own a couple. I didn’t realize that set up is rare. Falling blocks too though. The block is flat and the recess for the rim is in the breech of the barrel.

Was just wondering, I have a small lathe/mill combo on the bottom shelf of the gun room I use to make firing pins or modifying screws and such. Basically if it’s larger then a cigarette for turning or pack of cigarettes for milling it’s too big. I have no time to acquire and learn the skills for real machining. (I’m not Larry Potterfield who has a multi million dollar machine shop at my beck and call and probably the machinist to go with it that can do the work then step back when I turn the cameras on…).

 

[Greenyonline2]

Won't that just give you the clearance behind the case head? Headspace proper (in a .22RF) is the distance from the breech face to the chamber face, where the case crime stops.

Measuring the case rim + plastigauge would come closer.

Measuring the case rim thickness is a given. Add the thickness indicated by the plastigauge. Should have been more precise.

 

[Greenyonline2]

Actually exactly what I was thinking of… only because I own a couple. I didn’t realize that set up is rare. Falling blocks too though. The block is flat and the recess for the rim is in the breech of the barrel.

Was just wondering, I have a small lathe/mill combo on the bottom shelf of the gun room I use to make firing pins or modifying screws and such. Basically if it’s larger then a cigarette for turning or pack of cigarettes for milling it’s too big. I have no time to acquire and learn the skills for real machining. (I’m not Larry Potterfield who has a multi million dollar machine shop at my beck and call and probably the machinist to go with it that can do the work then step back when I turn the cameras on…).

Have you done any work on the bolts of your 58x rifles by adding shims to take out most of the slop?

 

[Emmett Dibble]

Have you done any work on the bolts of your 58x rifles by adding shims to take out most of the slop?

Nope. The the one has a replacement barrel and is headspaced with the slop, the other one is just a stocker that I picked but because I'm a gluten for punishment... I have multiple Annie 54's that receive love so these 2 just sit in the back of the safe.

FWIW I think the slop is good because you can pack grease in there to mitigate wear. Interesting bolt design for such an inexpensive action. Even a Anschutz 64 only has one lug (the bolt handle) as opposed to 6 internal on the 5XX series.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Iirc
Like a Remington 580/1/2 , the bolt breech face is flat and the barrel breech face has the rim recess , they make reamers to cut the rim recess

I think most rimfire reamers have that rim. It locks you into how deep you can chamber