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22LR coned breach

I've a curiosity about the coned breach method on 22LR rifles repeaters mainly, I don't know if my search skills just suck but digging around didn't really find much info as far as angles, depths, diameters and was wondering if anyone could point me to some information I could get a better idea on how to cut them?

Thinking of playing a bit with a rimfire I have and would like to keep the repeater aspect, it's just a Ruger American target.... yea not worth much but thought I could play with it to figure out what I'm doing before I drop the coin on an action OR just figure it's not worth the hassle lol I don't have a mill so trying to get away from cutting extractor slots plus I like the idea of the rimfire crud not building up.

I might be wasting my time but when I get to curious and can't find information you guys have always been a good source of yea here ya go or stop while your ahead. I appreciate anything you can point me to and have a good one.

Kirk
 
a so called "cone breech" on a rimfire is not the same thing as whats commonly referred to as a cone breech on a centerfire, it was conceived as a way to be able to "clock" the barrel with no concern for the extractor, some believe that a rifle can be made to shoot better by indexing the barrel rotationally, personally I see no advantage to it, the thin edge left at the chamber entrance seems more easily damaged.
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a so called "cone breech" on a rimfire is not the same thing as whats commonly referred to as a cone breech on a centerfire, it was conceived as a way to be able to "clock" the barrel with no concern for the extractor, some believe that a rifle can be made to shoot better by indexing the barrel rotationally, personally I see no advantage to it, the thin edge left at the chamber entrance seems more easily damaged.
View attachment 1293110
Yes I understand the centerfire version just been rather curious as to why I can't seem to find much info on the rimfire version. I've never had much interest in rimfire besides squirrels and turtles lol the brother and I have been playing with a home built NYL target and well I'm finding the limits rather quickly past 75 yards so I started looking into ways to gain more accuracy, that's why I bought a lathe and started dealing with my centerfire rifles. I appreciate the reply and thought's on this subject and so far your thought's mirror my thoughts but hey curiosity killed the cat lol
 
I could see a dry fire would probably make for a bad day! I've read of pinned firing pins so they would not contact the barrel.... I sent off a 10/22 bolt for headspace and to have the pin pinned, since I don't have a mill just looking into other options and curiosity has gotten the better of me.
 
dry firing on a rim fire coned breech will give you no joy.
Dry firing any rimfire will give you no joy. I have seen ISSF pistol shooters lose points at major events following dags on the breech face caused by last night's/this morning's dry firing. As a team manager, I always carried a few abrasive tools to remove them at the range and reminded them to purchase some plastic dry- fire devices. And with expensive European pistols too.
 
Can anyone point me to a resource where I can find information about stuff like cone size? I'd like to research it a bit more just can't seem to find much about the process? Thanks fella's
 
Other than being able to clock the barrel is the only advantage. It does nothing for accuracy and dryfiring makes a mess.
 
I fully understand, reason I'm curious is that I don't have a mill to cut slots and really just looking to figure out another way just because most of this information is going by the wayside with NC machines it seems..... I just like to understand how things work.
 
I fully understand, reason I'm curious is that I don't have a mill to cut slots and really just looking to figure out another way just because most of this information is going by the wayside with NC machines it seems..... I just like to understand how things work.
Good luck Sir.
 
if you go over to rimfirecentral there is a retired rimfire builder there named djdilliodon. if you can contact him he is very friendly and more than likely answer your questions for you.
 
"reason I'm curious is that I don't have a mill to cut slots"
Investigate a dark ages item known as a milling attachment for a lathe. Mounts on the compound, milling cutter is driven via a collet in the lathe spindle. Not up to heavy milling but for someone with a lathe that only needs to to occasional light mill work and is patient and thoughtful regarding their set up and not greedy with the depth of cut in one pass it could do the extractor slot you need. An acquaintance has done several 1911 slide inlets for low mounted adjustable Bomar sights with his South Bend and the South Bend attachment .
 
Investigate a dark ages item known as a milling attachment for a lathe. Mounts on the compound, milling cutter is driven via a collet in the lathe spindle. Not up to heavy milling but for someone with a lathe that only needs to to occasional light mill work and is patient and thoughtful regarding their set up and not greedy with the depth of cut in one pass it could do the extractor slot you need. An acquaintance has done several 1911 slide inlets for low mounted adjustable Bomar sights with his South Bend and the South Bend attachment .
I've seen them just never really messed with one, pretty sure the guy who used it had chicken feathers, bones and would chant while setting it up LOL I'm fair on a lathe but am not afraid to say there is more I don't know than I do. My biggest problem is I see things I think are interesting and while I have an idea in my head how something is done I tend to dig around to find information to make sure that my idea is sort of close.
 
Check over on rimfire accuracy. I believe I saw some drawings from Jerry stiller for the 2500x before on a cone breech.
 

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