223 AR Heavy Bullet Favorites

[warthog97]

I bought a few different types of 223 bullets, all toward the heavier end of the spectrum. I measured the max cartridge lengths,ogive into the lands) and figured I'd start at 10 thous off the lands for my AR. For those of you more familiar with AR reloading, I'm sure it comes as no surprise that the 80 gr A-Max, 80 Gr Berger VLDs both wanted to be longer than the AR mag allows. The 69 gr Noslers measured a neat 2.360" to the lands, so when I knock off 10 thousands, I hit the magic 2.250" for the mag. 5 dummy rounds fed through the mag flawlessly, so this one looks like it should work.

So, here is the question, what are the AR-15 shooters doing with the heavier bullets? Do you load 'em long and turn the AR into a semi-auto-single-shot, or do you load them to run through the mag and take the hit in velocity? Perhaps if I explain my intent, it will help. I'm a baby F-Class'er; meaning I have the gun and the optics, am working on a load, and trying to get cheaper practice than a 6.5x84 allows. I figure I can shoot 223 at shorter ranges to learn wind doping, etc and improve my belly-bench rest techniques without worrying about barrel life. In this application, I don't mind loading each round into the AR if I go with the heavier 80 grain rounds. Anyway, I'm curious what you all think.

Thanks!

-Brian

 

[jr600yd]

Brian,
The heavier bullets you mention are meant to be fired one at a time,semi-auto single shot). When loaded correctly they will be to long to feed thru your magazine anyway. The 80 gr bullets also require a 1/8 twist or faster barrel. If your barrel is a 1/9 or slower twist try the 75-77gr match bullets. The 80gr bullets are designed for 600yds and out. Shooting them at 100 is a waste. Since you want to shoot F class it is required you load only one round at a time. If you are shooting 2-300yds try the 69-77gr weight match bullets and if your shooting 100yds try the 50-53 gr weight match bullets. Hope this helps you.
Jim

 

[7stwhunter]

I would definatly load the 80gr. bullets out long and single feed them. and by the way when your nosler bullets touch the lands at 2.360 its 110 thousands off the lands to get to 2.250
Nathan

 

[warthog97]

7stw. Thanks for catching my dumb math goof! Checked my loads and sure enough, they were 2.250"... I put the RCBS bullet pulling die to work and now have them loaded 0.010" off the lands. Thanks again!

-bnw

 

[SooStan]

jr600yd hit it right on the head. I do use the 80 Bergers and A-Max for 300 yd. f-class shoot and paste matches. Don't get locked in to what distance to jam or off the lands, Start jammed, work up a load and then when you have a load that works move them back and see what happens. Every rifle is a little different. On my f-class bolt guns I can't tell you how far my bullets are from the lands or how deep they are jammed, but I can tell you the OAL to the Ogive and if I run them deeper or farther out the groups open.

 

[people]

SooStan has a point I always wanted my bullets to have a little jump but during my last load development with some PPU 75gr HPBT bullets I started with then jammed into the rifling. Wow do those cheap bullets shoot great in my rifle. I was using Honady 75gr for my 200 and 300 strings and 80's for the 600.

The way my rifle is chambered I can not get the 80's very close to the riffling at all so they were jumping a long way. I actually started shooting 75's at 600 because they shoot so much better in my rifle.

Starting off jammed may not be a bad way to go if you develop your round that way.

 

[weshowe]

Warthog and all,

Just lost a long post so will cut this one short.

The .223 will meet the parameters of your shooting and do it cheaper than shooting a .243 Winch or something larger.
The rifling twist will be determined by bullet weight/shape you intend to use.
I've settled on 68-70 grain match bullets as they are compatible with my Winchester Stealths 1:9" twist rate. Out of the box is shoots 69 gr SMK's just under 1/2" @ 100 yards. The JLK 70 grain match bullet shoots into 3/8" all day long. Unfortunately, JLK no longer makes that bullet.

Here's what I currently use for a bolt gun and have not found it wanting in any way:
Winchester M70 Stealth .223 Remington...factory stock.
Badger Ordnance mounts and rings,overkill on a .223)
Luppie MK IV M1/LR 3.5 x 10X w/USMC mil-dot reticle

I'm just getting to do some serious work with the Winnie and have decided to stick with the factory tube. When this is shot out I may rebarrel with a 1:7" twist and try some REAL heavyweights.

Your possible selection of a Cooper is good. They are sound rifles and they're puurrtty, too!

Best of luck in your quest.

Wes

 

[fdshuster]

Just had a Hart 1-8, Savage mdl. 10FP rebarreled with my Pacific chambering reamer, spec'ed with .072" of freebore, .253" no-turn neck for Lapua brass & 1.770" max chamber length). That freebore is working out as intended: I'm able to seat the 77 & 80 gr. Sierra's to touch the lands, and the full .224" dia. is at the bottom of the case neck. Only the heel of the boatail extends into the shoulder, so it's not greatly limiting powder space. At the same time, for shorter distances, I am able to also touch the lands with the 55 gr. V-Max, and the base of that bullet is also at the bottom of the case neck. A good compromise, I believe, if wanting to use, in my case) from 55 to 80 gr. In my AR's they would be single-loaded, but that's required by the "rules" anyway.