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i am planning to build a tuner for my 22 target rifle, i see there are 2 ways to approach this concept, first is by adding a moveable weight fore and aft, second is the type where there is no weight involved it is turning the tuner in and out, is one method preferred over the other.
chet
You will need to have the ability to make repeatable adjustments, regardless of the tuner having the option of adding weight.
FYI the standard of RFBR is the Harrell which has 0.001 adjustments
Lee
Tips:
--Tune it 0.100" at a time with cheaper ammo of the same type and velocity.
--Then back into the nearest 0.050" at a time, arguably with your better ammo.
-Nate
Garandman-
Have you figured out the cost of smith, barrel, tuner, extras and doo-dads for the 457 (including initial cost of rifle?
No doubt, but early on, you're just trying to get "close" to the barrel's tune without spending a shitload of $18 ammo.
As long as it's pretty close to the same speed and load, you're gonna be really close.
Keep in mind that the TUNE itself is +/- about a click... or 0.001" on the Harrell, whereas you are adjusting at one HUNDRED TIMES that when you're using Eley Match to tune for Eley TENEX, or SK S+ to tune for Rifle Match.
ETA: Just remember when you change wax types or brands, to run a bunch of rounds before you give 100% credence to a test group. Every barrel is different about this, as is each ammo, and some don't shoot well enough to see it.
I've not seen one of my barrels need more than 15-20 rounds to settle down after a change in ammo, but it's been said that some can take up to a full box.
if you have a good barrel and know how to clean it properly, it’s ready to go with no more than 5-10 shots......you can take that to the bank.
I’ve been lucky enough to shoot in a lot of State, regional, national, matches with some of the greats.....they don’t move their tuners.
I was guessing once you get your "tune" you really don't mess with it much in the middle of a match. Or ever, really. Is that accurate?
Just the opposite in cf. If you can explain why that is, I'd love to hear it.Lots of what’s been mentioned is pretty much spot on.
Unless you’re really motivated as a DIY’er you are not going to improve on a Harrels, doubtful you need any weights and although this is always controversial for quite a while, maybe ever, do NOT become a “ tuner twister”.
I cannot tell you how many newbies I’ve seen that spend their hole leves chasing their tail with this instead of learning how to shoot.
I’ve been lucky enough to shoot in a lot of State, regional, national, matches with some of the greats.....they don’t move their tuners.
Just the opposite in cf. If you can explain why that is, I'd love to hear it.
I was guessing once you get your "tune" you really don't mess with it much in the middle of a match. Or ever, really. Is that accurate?
if you have a good barrel and know how to clean it properly, it’s ready to go with no more than 5-10 shots......you can take that to the bank.
Sure, because contrary to your belief that they are exactly the same, the guys that have done an extraordinary amount of rimfire barrel testing are firm in their belief that is not the case. And that is a pretty good handful of them that also generally prove it on paper.
Works for me.[/QUOTE
P.S. we now have had this running little conversation for some time Mike.
At the risk of getting redundant you have never answered my one consistent question.......why do the better IR sporters shoot so consistently well in widely changing conditions, all with an inability to change what is essentially, a tuner on the end ??