22 Ammo issue???

[AstroGuy]

So they chambered fine single feeding but don't want to chamber off the magazine. Have you had the same issue with other ammo(SK match) from the magazine or are you always single feeding match ammo?

They don’t chamber manually either. I have never had this issue with any of the other ammo I’ve tested in the past with this or any other gun I’ve used.

 

[AstroGuy]

I had a batch of CCI target with excessive lube that gummed up the chamber.

I wiped the remaining unfired round with a Scott Shop Rag, and all was fine afterwards.

I think I’ll give something like this a try and test it.

Thanks!

 

[AstroGuy]

It is possible that the fired Aguila round does not have sufficient power to push the bolt back far enough to completely compress the recoil spring thereby reducing the force available to pick up a new round from the magazine and then chamber it.

1. Put an SK round in the chamber and close the bolt, load the magazine and insert it, fire the rifle and see if it chambers the Aguila round.
2. Thoroughly clean the bolt face as well as any and all areas of the bolt that has direct contact the receiver.

22rf ammo is dirty particularly noticeably in semi-automatic rifles & pistols.

That being said, cold temperatures & excess lube should be thoroughly checked.

Hello Walt,
thank you for this but my CZ is bolt action non semi auto gun.
I have actually noticed this with my old marlin model 70. I have to run high velocity rounds otherwise they don’t eject just like you say.
The temp when I was shooting was in the high 20’s f and I have wondered if the cold temps could have had something to do with my issue as well.

 

[K22]

I think I’ll give something like this a try and test it.

Thanks!

I didn't use any solvent, just a clean Scott Shop Rag. The lube was so thick that several of the cartridges stuck in the holes of the CCI container.

This condition specially created a problem with chambering them in my S&W Model 17's revolvers. Also, I got build up in the entrance to the chamber in my Tikka T1X rifle.

Yea, it was pain to do this, but I salvaged the cartridges. I did a 50 at a time to lessen the pain. I did them all (brick of 500) since I could not determine upon visually inspection which ones had excessive lube. Even a few that slipped through the container holes had too much lube.

 

[Walt Schmidlin]

Hello Walt,
thank you for this but my CZ is bolt action non semi auto gun.
I have actually noticed this with my old marlin model 70. I have to run high velocity rounds otherwise they don’t eject just like you say.
The temp when I was shooting was in the high 20’s f and I have wondered if the cold temps could have had something to do with my issue as well.

I had a Kart 22rf conversation for a 1911 frame which developed a habit of not chambering a round from the magazine AFTER I changed ammunition. After checking all the “moving parts” the issue was too much wax or lube on the bullet.
Had a gunsmith friend chamber a left over piece of barrel into 2” barrel ammo checker for lack of a better term.
I found by pushing a bullet into the match chamber it removed the excess wax/lube. Wasn’t that time consuming, found out you get what you pay for.
CCI standard velocity is the best for the money, however the rim thickness does vary. Good at 50yds but the higher priced 22 ammo is much better as would be WP expected.

Hope you can figure out your issue.

 

[AstroGuy]

I had a Kart 22rf conversation for a 1911 frame which developed a habit of not chambering a round from the magazine AFTER I changed ammunition. After checking all the “moving parts” the issue was too much wax or lube on the bullet.
Had a gunsmith friend chamber a left over piece of barrel into 2” barrel ammo checker for lack of a better term.
I found by pushing a bullet into the match chamber it removed the excess wax/lube. Wasn’t that time consuming, found out you get what you pay for.
CCI standard velocity is the best for the money, however the rim thickness does vary. Good at 50yds but the higher priced 22 ammo is much better as would be WP expected.

Hope you can figure out your issue.

Gonna give the cleaning a try that you and K22 mentioned. Will keep you all posted!

 

[TRSR8]

Gonna give the cleaning a try that you and K22 mentioned. Will keep you all posted!

You’re going to replace your issue with another bigger one. That lube is there for a reason.
How much time before the light goes on and you just ditch it?

 

[AstroGuy]

You’re going to replace your issue with another bigger one. That lube is there for a reason.
How much time before the light goes on and you just ditch it?

Thank you for your wonderful comment

 

[243winxb]

Aguila 40gn 1255fps

Before & after wiping lube off.. .2267" vs .225" After wiping, the Lubaloy remains.

 

[AstroGuy]

Thank you for your response. Yes this is what I have found I have to do to make these work in this gun. Not sure if I’m going to sell these or keep them yet.

 

[B23]

Curious, does wiping it off affect POI or how well it shoots in comparison to before it was wiped off or the other Lot# that didn't have the problem chambering it??

 

[AstroGuy]

Curious, does wiping it off affect POI or how well it shoots in comparison to before it was wiped off or the other Lot# that didn't have the problem chambering it??

Good question. Some above have mentioned that it needs the lub for when it goes through the barrel and it does. Even when I’ve removed some of the lub/wax so that its closer to .225 I can still use my thumbnail and scrap some off of the bullet so what I do take off isn’t taking all of it off.

 

[243winxb]

Many different ways to stop leading in 22LR ammo.

1. The copper color is Lubaloy. Its considered a friction-reducing coating. Copper/zinc blend.
2. Pure lead 22s are coated with a wax.
3. A wash, containing antimony/zinc is applied to the bullet surface, to keep them from leading.
4. Match grade uses an alloy containing 2% antimony to harden bullets. Then lubed.

This problem ammo may have been produced when changing from waxed lead to Lubaloy coat?
The wax was left from not cleaning at change over?

As a side note, some bulk Remington ammo had bullets that were not fully formed. Half the bullet was missing. Looked like the bullet was formed, seated & crimped, at the same time. (my guess)

Problems i seen with 22lr.
1.Left ring of lead in barrel
2. Case head bulged. The part agains the slide face. Pushed fired brass off slide to soon on High Standards. Ruger* MK1 did not* care, worked fine.
3.Misfires common on todays bulk* ammo. Not so in the 60s &70s.

The low cost ammo may have more issues then expensive, Match ammo. Dont know. CCI standard velocity is all i am willing to pay for.

I know, ro much info. But whats an 80 year old to do on a saturday night?

 

[AstroGuy]

Many different ways to stop leading in 22LR ammo.

1. The copper color is Lubaloy. Its considered a friction-reducing coating.
2. Pure lead 22s are coated with a wax.
3. A wash, containing antimony/zinc is applied to the bullet surface, to keep them from leading.
4. Match grade uses an alloy containing 2% antimony to harden bullets. Then lubed.

This problem ammo may have been produced when changing from waxed lead to Lubaloy coat?
The wax was left from not cleaning at change over?

As a side note, some bulk Remington ammo had bullets that were not fully formed. Half the bullet was missing. Looked like the bullet was formed, seated & crimped, at the same time. (my guess)

Problems i seen with 22lr.
1.Left ring of lead in barrel
2. Case head bulged. The part agains the slide face. Pushed fired brass off slide to soon on High Standards. Rugee MK1 did care, worked fine.
3.Misfires common on todays bult ammo. Not so in the 60s &70s.

The low cost ammo may have more issues then expensive Match ammo. Dont know. CCI standard velocity is all i am willing to pay for.

I know, ro much info. But whats an 80 year old to do on a saturday night?

Thank you for your insight! You make sense about the change over in lub/wax thing. I can see how that could happen if they don’t clean well enough during a change over.