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22-250 Remington 700 Re-barrel Questions

I OWN, a Rem M-700 in .22-250 caliber and it has, a Timney trigger, is Glass Bedded/ Free floated bbl. and "shoots" the 52-53 grain Sierra's, 52 gr Amax, 50 & 55 Bal Tip's and the 60 Gr Sierra "Varminter's" from, 1/2 to 3/4 MOA ( ALL bullet's, listed and 5 shot group's). Glass bed your Action/ free float bbl, CLEAN the Barrel then, push 20 / 25 strokes of JB's SLATHERED over, a TIGHT Patch, on a Bronze Brush, to DEBURR / polish the New Throat/ Lands then, reclean. I bed the first 1 1/2 inches of the bbl's "Shank" for better support when bedding, rifles. Adjust the Trigger to 1 1/4 pounds and ENJOY your Rifle til' the barrel is worn out, then get a 1-8 or, 1-9 twist for it LATER ( 2,000 rd's,.. later! ) If kept cool and cleaned properly ! Three shots,.. let COOL ! Lots of, great idea's by other's posted here, but you are more than 2/3rds of the way into a good rifle ! I say shoot it, then get the New Barrel,.. LATER ! Good luck !
 
Nick, get yourself some 53gr Sierra MK's or some Hornady 52gr ELD-M bullets. The 53gr SMK's always shoot very well from 1-14tw 22-250's as did the old 52gr Amax which I think is nearly, if not the same as the new 52gr ELD-M. Neither is particularly seating depth sensitive, which is unlike most Bergers.
 
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Nick, get yourself some 53gr Sierra MK's or some Hornady 52gr ELD-M bullets. The 53gr SMK's always shoot very well from 1-14tw 22-250's as did the old 52gr Amax which I think is nearly, if not the same as the old 52gr Amax. Neither is particularly seating depth sensitive, which is unlike most Bergers.

YUP,.. the 52 Amax IS, THE MOST accurate Bullet in,.. MY gun, too !
Sierra 52 BT's -53's FB's were, next ! Unless, the OP wants to pour, a "boat load of Money", into THIS rifle! Personally, I'd shoot THIS Barrel out,.. FIRST ! Save up $$$ for, a "good" stock as mentioned in an earlier post and RESEARCH about, Bullets FOR, a 1-8 or, 1-9 twist Barrel ! There is NOTHING wrong with, a Rem 700 Action and Barrel,.. USUALLY !!! They are, in use World wide, by lots (Millions) of,.. Hunters and Snipers! Yes, the Tikka would have been the cheaper route but, that Horse, is already OUT of the Barn ! I have both Rifles (Tikka's ARE, "good") but, my Rem is, a "Tack Driver" when I do my part ! Read my earlier post on Barrel PREP and Bedding for, the utmost accuracy from, the Factory Rem's !
 
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I recently purchased a new Remington SV 22-250. For me, this rifle has been a disaster. It has a 1/14 twist, which limits the bullet weight and consequently will only stabilize bullets below 60 gr. Their supposedly adjustable trigger can only be adjusted down to 3 lbs. The stock is a nightmare and has a small rise at the front of the barrel. This necessitates some grinding to get it to float. The free bore is so long that the bullets that must be used are at least .100 from the lands.

I called Remington and was told that they guarantee the rifle to shoot 1 MOA at 100 yards and that I should load to SAMMI specifications and it will do that. Not true, at least in my experience.

I replaced the trigger with a Timney, the stock with a Magpul. I am now considering a barrel replacement.

My question is what twist rate I should use and how can I be sure that I will get a barrel that will conform to my being able to place the bullet closer to the lands. I am leaning towards a Remage barrel, which will allow me to change it later to another caliber if I decide to do so.

Wish I had bought a Savage to begin with. This is a rifle I only shoot at the bench so weight is of no concern.

Nick
Go on burger bullets website any bullets you plan to use have a recommended twist rate
 
When I purchased this rifle and before I fired the first shot, I put 900 strokes through it using three different grades of polishing compound combined with oil. I always do this and it works well for me. I have tried so many different bullets I am losing count. It does work best with flat based bullets. I use the rifle for bench rest shooting only. I can no longer go into the woods or on long walks. Getting too old and I tire easily. I am going to put a good grade barrel on it. most likely a 1/8 twist as I do not like the idea of pushing bullets at a high rate of velocity. It burns out barrels much to fast. I've seen others shooting 1/4 inch groups at 100 yards with this caliber. The Timny trigger and Magpul stock are very comfortable for me and I think I made the right choice for both. I am a stubborn old coot and I will stick to it until I get it right. I did talk to my Gunsmith about reworking this barrel but he told me it would be a lot better to just scrap the barrel as to properly rework this one would be very costly and there is no guarantee I get good results. I want to thank everyone for their comments.

Nick
 
I'd have to agree with you about putting on a good grade of barrel. I unscrewed my 22-250, 12 twist, stock Savage 26 in varmint wt barrel and put on a 28 in 8 twist X-Caliber. I only shoot targets and wanted something that would maybe do 1000 yds as my 223 was great out to 750, but not further.

The 8 twist shot the 80 grain SMKS well, but still wouldn't make the trip to 1000 reliably, so I ditched the 22-250 and rebarreled in 223 with a Criterion 8 twist. It'll shoot up to the 77SMK, but I just bought a 1000 69 Lapua Scenars that shoot really good.

The 22-250 just seemed to use a whole lot of powder to do little more than a 223 for target use. While much better in the "pink mist" department due to it's greater velocity for varmint use, for targets.....meh. A hole is a hole.

In your other post you mention going to a 30 br, I've heard a really good caliber for shooting score. Bigger hole makes touching the next higher ring easier. For the distance you're shooting (100 yds) probably a winner for sure. I've watched guys at the range shoot a string of holes, edges touching for fun. Cut the target in half!

Expensive paper cutter!
 
Thought I add an update. Yesterday I went to the range and finally shot a few good groups. I loaded 38.6 gr CFE223. Still no improvement and the groups were 3/4 to 1 in. Ruger recommends 65 ft lbs on the mounting screws, which is where I had set it. I decided to try setting them differently and started noticing I was shooting smaller groups. Bottom line is that my last two groups were about 3/8 inch. Front screw 45lbs and back 50lbs. Ran out of bullets at that point. Think I finally stumbled on to something.
 
Thought I add an update. Yesterday I went to the range and finally shot a few good groups. I loaded 38.6 gr CFE223. Still no improvement and the groups were 3/4 to 1 in. Ruger recommends 65 ft lbs on the mounting screws, which is where I had set it. I decided to try setting them differently and started noticing I was shooting smaller groups. Bottom line is that my last two groups were about 3/8 inch. Front screw 45lbs and back 50lbs. Ran out of bullets at that point. Think I finally stumbled on to something.

Not surprised. That's how some of the rimfire guys tune their rifles. Can make a difference.
Keep us posted.
 
Well you've gotten a lot of advice, good advice and some things might be expensivery to do.. I would sell this and go with the Tikka t3 either light or varmint. My suggestion is all.
 

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