Just got my 8 twist shilen 22-250. I have been shooting 80gr a-max's and berger vld's with 36.8gr of h-4350, headspaced off dies and checked with a no go gage. I can full length then shoot, neck size is tight but it will chamber, shoot and neck size again and if I really wanted to I could chamber the round but it is very very difficult. It's not the neck being to big,tried the marker on the neck) and not the length,tried trimming) Anyone have any thoughts on this?
22-250 necksizing trouble
- Thread starter Preda8or
- Start date
Preda8or: Did you start with new brass, for the new chamber, or re-load brass that had been fired in another 22-250 chamber? Measure your case head diameter, just in front of the rim, and compare with new, unfired brass. If the new chamber is as little as .002" smaller in that area, than the "old" chamber, rounds will be difficult to chamber. Had the same experience a few yrs. back when trying to use once fired Win. brass, 243, in a new Shilen chamber. Brass had been fired in the older Douglas barrel. Had to get a small base die, reduce case head dia., then they chambered normally. I don't know what neck clearence you are using, but I have a personal limitation of .003" on unturned necks, with a "tight" chamber neck. Ex: Chamber neck .230" for a loaded round dia. of .227",, 204 Ruger). I use the Sinclair chamber length gauges to measure actual chamber length, so I don't trim too short.
According to Hodgen your pretty far over book max.
If your FL brass chambers and then you necksize the "same" piece of brass and it chambers hard most likey you are overpressure.
Try chambering an unloaded piece of fired FL sized brass.
Does that chamber hard?
You can color the whole thing with a sharpie to find out where its rubbing.
As fdshuster stated if your trying to force necksized brass from one gun in your new chamber you need to FL size them all first.
If your FL brass chambers and then you necksize the "same" piece of brass and it chambers hard most likey you are overpressure.
Try chambering an unloaded piece of fired FL sized brass.
Does that chamber hard?
You can color the whole thing with a sharpie to find out where its rubbing.
As fdshuster stated if your trying to force necksized brass from one gun in your new chamber you need to FL size them all first.
Preacher
Gold $$ Contributor
A plain old 22/250 's brass will grow a lot and your FL die is probably pushing everything back where it belongs... and the neck die won't....
If a bullet will not go back into a fired case with no resistance they need to be turned so the bullet will go in easy....
I shoot 37.5 of H4350 with a 75 Amax in my 22/250 Ackley with no pressure problems at all, so your in the ballpark...
If a bullet will not go back into a fired case with no resistance they need to be turned so the bullet will go in easy....
I shoot 37.5 of H4350 with a 75 Amax in my 22/250 Ackley with no pressure problems at all, so your in the ballpark...
Bronsin
Silver $$ Contributor
This follows what Preacher posted. New brass usually takes a few firings to completely form the case to the chamber, and it just gets longer each time it is fired. After about 3 firings it usually settles down, and then you can readjust your dies to lightly bump the shoulder and they will work fine.
I back off the die, and adjust downward slightly until the case chambers without extra effort. The way I check for this is to close the bolt with a trigger pull guage, and then compare with a fired case, and keep adjusting until the difference is zero.
I have tried using all of the jinky guages, sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. They all try to get the same thing, which is closing the bolt without resistance. I have 2 different case guages, and neither one of them works as well as the trigger pull guage.
I back off the die, and adjust downward slightly until the case chambers without extra effort. The way I check for this is to close the bolt with a trigger pull guage, and then compare with a fired case, and keep adjusting until the difference is zero.
I have tried using all of the jinky guages, sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. They all try to get the same thing, which is closing the bolt without resistance. I have 2 different case guages, and neither one of them works as well as the trigger pull guage.
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