Need Some Help With Rifle Order

[MikeMcC]

Hi all,
I'm considering ordering a .22-250 hunting rifle with 24" barrel, but don't know what neck size, free-bore and barrel twist rate I should specify. I plan to shoot 55 grain bullets and I do reload for a number of other calibers.
I use an overall length gage to measure my bullet seat depth to determine the amount of free-bore. Do I need to tell the rifle builder exactly which bullet I intend to shoot for him to chamber the barrel accurately?
Is the neck size measured from a case that has been sized in the reloading die? I have RCBS dies and cases for .22-250, should I size a few and measure to advise the rifle builder?
I'm going to end up spending a decent amount of money on the new rifle and want to get it right to the best of my ability. Thank you for any assistance you can offer.

 

[Erik Cortina]

If you will specify chamber neck and freebore, it is best that you order your own reamer.

The best way to figure out what neck diameter you need is to seat a bullet on a piece of brass and add .004" to the outside diameter of the neck.

You can seat a bullet in the case the way you want it to end up, and send the dummy round (no primer nor powder) to PT&G and they will make you a reamer to match. I like to apply superglue to the case neck before I seat the bullet, that prevents the bullet from moving during shipping and handling.

 

[fdshuster]

Mike: You will need to make a few decisions before making a final choice. (1) Chambering reamer. You can have the gunsmith cut the chamber with whatever 22-250 reamer he has available. Popular cartridge, so he may have several. Or you can buy your own reamer, with your specs. Cost will be between $116 and $138, from PTG, where I buy mine. (2) Freebore. If using the gunsmiths reamer you can give him a dummy round loaded with the main bullet you want to use, seated at the depth you want, and he could give you the proper freebore. If not exactly what you want, he can do a short throat, then lengthen it to the exact dimension using a throating only reamer. If buying your own reamer (like PTG, the company I'm familiar with), you can call and speak to Dave Kiff, tell him the bullet you want to use, and how you want it seated, ( example: touching the lands with the base of the bullet just in front of the neck/shoulder junction), and he will enter that info into his optical comparator and have the exact freebore. (3) Chamber neck diameter. Gunsmith's reamer? No choice, take whatever diameter his reamer cuts and it will most likely be a SAAMI spec. that will have a generous diameter larger than loaded round neck diameter. Means you will be working the brass, means neck splits sooner, unless you anneal. Buy your own reamer ? Decide what brass you want to use, (example: Lapua or Winchester), load a dummy round and measure the neck diameter using a micrometer. Add .003" or .004" and that will be the chamber neck diameter. There is a difference between Lapua and most other brass, Lapua being thicker, so that's an important consideration. (4) Twist rate. 1-14 is the usual for the 22-250, but if you may ever want to use heavier/ longer bullets, then a 12 or even a 10 twist may be better. The faster twists will still shoot the lightweight / short bullets well, but you'll also be able to use heavier up to around 69 gr. Actually my 22-250's all had 14 twists, and they did best with the 50 gr., and I often wished I had a sightly faster 12 or 10.

Sorry for the long rambling post, still awake, just trying to cover all your concerns. I'm sure others will comment also.

 

[A_Gamehog]

I'm considering ordering a .22-250 hunting rifle with 24" barrel

Mike what are you going to shoot/hunt? targets also?

Many good riles in 22-250 are 1-12 twist. Shoots the 34's to the 60's easily.

Good advise above but I like to know the purpose of the rile also. Varmints?

A 10 twist custom barrel would let you shoot the 68's & 69's

 

[fdshuster]

A_Gamehog: I was thinking about the 65 gr. Hornady V-Max also as a good choice for a heavier varmint bullet. I always had excellent results with them in my 223's. Lot of possibilities with a faster twist barrel compared to being locked into a 14 twist.

 

[MikeMcC]

Thank you very much guys! You provided some really good information and I now understand more about what I should do.
To advise what my intentions are for the rifle, my use for the rifle is to carry for coyote hunting and to simply have fun shooting it at paper targets at the rifle range. I probably will stick with 55 grain bullets since I have a .243 set-up shooting 70 grain bullets.
Thanks again.

Mike

 

[A_Gamehog]

Try the 53 V-Max if you can and use Varget or Big Game, or XBR 8208. These 3 powders give me good accuracy with smaller bullets in the 22-250. The 53's really hammer the Varmints out to 400yards. Beyond that your 6mm's rule the roost. The 53's are longer than any 55-60's out there. .830"

 

[greg8012]

Good Morning, I have a 22-250 varmint special in Remington bdl. When I shot it I used a tame load of 35.5gr of H-380 sub inch groups more like .750 I am considering selling it. 600.00 w/o scope and rings. +25.00 shipping to your FFL.. Greg 720 470 2598

 

[Shynloco]

You can seat a bullet in the case the way you want it to end up, and send the dummy round (no primer nor powder) to PT&G and they will make you a reamer to match. I like to apply superglue to the case neck before I seat the bullet, that prevents the bullet from moving during shipping and handling.

+1 to Eric's recommendation. Now I have to be honest because I'm not a big fan of the 22-250 caliber. Having said that, call Dave Kiff at PTG 541-826-5808 and discuss IN DETAIL what you are trying to accomplish in ordering a reamer. Dave will help you select the reamer that best fits your goals. I've done exactly what Eric recommends as well and Dave has come through for me with each caliber reamer I buy from him. He's a great source of info as well to some of us who are exactly the "sharpest pencil" in the drawer. That BTW is me. I only shoot 'em, I don't fix or build 'em.

 

[drover]

Mike, My advice for what it is worth.
From reading your post it seems to me that you would be as well served by a factory rifle versus going to the expense of building a custom, at least at this point of your decision making process. I believe that you would be better served by going to a dealer and handling a few sporter 22/250s and a few heavy barrel 22/250s. At that point decide if you want a sporter or heavy barreled rifle, then buy an off the shelf factory rifle and shoot it until the barrel starts to go, by that time you will have a much better idea of what you will want in a custom rifle. You could either use your existing rifle as a basis for a custom or sell it and go the full custom route.
Seriously consider this because it is very easy to wrap up a bundle of money in a custom and still not have what you were trying to build.

drover

 

[bheadboy]

lots of good thoughts, my experience-- some casual target to 300yd, pd when ever I can go

55 gr Sierra blitzking, preferred for longer shots to 500-600yd

14 twist is marginal, so I ordered a Hart 13' which is great with that combo, a 12 twist will handle up to the 63gr if you go that route and any of the 55's as well,

using the 55 plastic tips, which are longer than std 55's the faster twist is necessary.

I have a std chamber and throat as chambered by R. W. Hart, in Nescopeck, I did not specify any changes.
to the reamer.

the rifle shoots fantastically and I get 3725 fps with no pressure. lots of pd's suffered the impact of the 55sbk

Bob

 

[MikeMcC]

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the good information and helpful advise.

 

[357Mag]

Mike -

Howdy !

You'll provide your riflesmith with a few bulleted " dummy rounds ", set to the cartridge oal you desire. And perhaps, some empty cases.
These ( amongst other things ) allow the barrel lead to be set-up for cartridges that fit your rifle's magazine.
The 'smith uses the dummy rounds, when cutting the chamber/leade of the barrel.

An experienced & competent 'smith will have all the needed tools, and also know what set-ups work for select calibres/cartridges/bullets.
You get to pick those last three. If you are unsure about the needed twist rate, again... an experienced 'smith will know what works;
for the selected bullet' caliber/weight/length.


With regards,
357Mag

 

[MikeMcC]

Thank you to all for the great information and diverse opinions offered. Gave me a lot to think about. To make a long story short (really came very close to ordering a Cooper), I decided to move forward with my original plan and kept my order in place at Kelbly's for their Arcas Series hunting rifle based on their Atlas short-action chambered in .22-250 Rem. I chose to have them use their reamer for a standard SAAMI spec chamber. Since this will be a hunting use and recreational target rifle, I decided I didn't want to get involved in neck turning and custom dies. Also allows the rifle to shoot standard off-the-shelf ammo if that is ever necessary.
I'll have a lot of fun with this new rifle and when the time is right I always have the option to take it to a higher level with a new barrel.
I should see this rifle in about three months and after breaking it in right, I'll let everyone know what I think and how accurate I personally can shoot it.
Thanks again to all,
Mike