22-250 lapua brass in 6-47 lapua chamber
- Thread starter wildchild
- Start date
therifler
Silver $$ Contributor
yes it is possible if you know the proper way to fire form the case and can acheive the right load for forming . i form a 6.5 x 250 ack. and when doing so they are very close to my 6.5x47 round . by all means i am not telling you to do this only that i think it can be done with proper research and sound procedures. The Rifler
rcw3
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This postings on this thread are way off base so far - a piece of 22-250 brass will not fit in a 6-47 chamber (not even close) with out the brass being re-formed in a significant way and trimmed.
You absolutely could re-form 22-250 brass (with the right forming die set up), trim it and then fire form it to the chamber if you wanted to, but it would be a lot of work.
With Lapua 6.5 x 47 brass that just needs to be necked down, I don't know why one would go through all the trouble to make brass for the cartridge from 22-250 brass.
Robert Whitley
You absolutely could re-form 22-250 brass (with the right forming die set up), trim it and then fire form it to the chamber if you wanted to, but it would be a lot of work.
With Lapua 6.5 x 47 brass that just needs to be necked down, I don't know why one would go through all the trouble to make brass for the cartridge from 22-250 brass.
Robert Whitley
rcw3 said:
Bruno's has Lapua 6.5x47 brass at $87 per hundred. Good Lapua brass for the 22/250 is $58 per hundred.
That's one reason to ponder it. If it is possible without expensive tools (say just running a case into a FL die), I'm sure someone will think their time is worth the monetary savings.
Kaiser Norton
Wildchild
When I read the original post I thought he was asking if it was safe to fire a 22-250 round in a 6x46L chamber since there was no mention of necking up. Although I am admittedly far from a guru, internet or otherwise, I do know if you chamber a 22anything in a 6anything and pull the trigger, bad things are going to happen. I have heard of people doing crazier things when it comes to firearms and did not see any replies to the original post so I was just trying to make sure the guy didn't do anything to hurt himself.
Jason
zedsdead said:
yes you are right if by "bad things will happen" you mean the neck will expand out to 6mm and the bullet will travel down the barrel and out the end, BUT if you mean the gun will blow up, you are sadly mistaken, my neighbor has a 6mm-.223 AR-15 and he forms his cases like this never had one split and he has formed well over a thousand cases in this manner. ( he does this in a old wore out rem. 700 chambered in 6X45mm) he started to do this on my advice. you see i was smart enough to know nothing "bad will happen".
Lets back on track.
If I wanted to make 6X47 Brass from some domestic Brass what would be the best option. Or more importantly be the easiest way.
Lets use this example. I was going to use the brass for short range NRA Match rifle shooting standing and Rapid fire which is going to take a little bit of a beating and may get lost as well.
Wild Child forgive me if I Highjacked you thread. I have the same Question.
Would 6.5 Creedmore be best?
RussT
If I wanted to make 6X47 Brass from some domestic Brass what would be the best option. Or more importantly be the easiest way.
Lets use this example. I was going to use the brass for short range NRA Match rifle shooting standing and Rapid fire which is going to take a little bit of a beating and may get lost as well.
Wild Child forgive me if I Highjacked you thread. I have the same Question.
Would 6.5 Creedmore be best?
RussT
Russ,
I wouldn't use Creedmoor brass to form into 6.5X47 brass, the available commercial Creedmoor brass is only Hornady - it's decent but nothing to write home about and it's actually a bit more expensive than Lapua .22-250.
Take .22-250, lube it up, run a .243" mandrel or expander ball through the neck, run it into your FL sizer 6.5X47 so it pushes the shoulder back if needed, and seat the bullets so they're jammed to ensure headspace, don't use full-house loads. Trim the neck if necessary, if it's too long it could create a pressure issue. It's good practice and you'll be surprised how accurate they are.
Here's a picture of a Lapau .22-250 untouched next to one that I formed using that method and a picture of one loaded up for forming next to the result. Keep in mind this is 6.5 Creedmoor but X47 the process will be the same. You probably won't end up culling as many due to split necks as you're running 6MM vs 6.5, ,too.
Wayne
I wouldn't use Creedmoor brass to form into 6.5X47 brass, the available commercial Creedmoor brass is only Hornady - it's decent but nothing to write home about and it's actually a bit more expensive than Lapua .22-250.
Take .22-250, lube it up, run a .243" mandrel or expander ball through the neck, run it into your FL sizer 6.5X47 so it pushes the shoulder back if needed, and seat the bullets so they're jammed to ensure headspace, don't use full-house loads. Trim the neck if necessary, if it's too long it could create a pressure issue. It's good practice and you'll be surprised how accurate they are.
Here's a picture of a Lapau .22-250 untouched next to one that I formed using that method and a picture of one loaded up for forming next to the result. Keep in mind this is 6.5 Creedmoor but X47 the process will be the same. You probably won't end up culling as many due to split necks as you're running 6MM vs 6.5, ,too.
Wayne
Wayne & All
Do you get that wrinkle the shoulder the 6XC guys get when sizing 22-250 brass?
The reason I ask is that Im shooting the 6X47 Swiss Match instead of the Lapua. The shoulder is a little farther back than the XC or the Lapua. So when I size 22-250 it looks like an accordian. To much to push back. I was thinking of getting another Die to do it in two steps some how. I have plenty of RAUG brass for the slowfire stage @600. But since its so scarce I thought I better start finding an Alternate source.
Ive attached a picture of the Case to compare. I didnt have a 6XC case yet so it did not make the picture. Maybe I need to consider a Blow out barrel from a shot out 6mm to do this while fireforming cases.
This project is getting more expensive all the time..
Do you get that wrinkle the shoulder the 6XC guys get when sizing 22-250 brass?
The reason I ask is that Im shooting the 6X47 Swiss Match instead of the Lapua. The shoulder is a little farther back than the XC or the Lapua. So when I size 22-250 it looks like an accordian. To much to push back. I was thinking of getting another Die to do it in two steps some how. I have plenty of RAUG brass for the slowfire stage @600. But since its so scarce I thought I better start finding an Alternate source.
Ive attached a picture of the Case to compare. I didnt have a 6XC case yet so it did not make the picture. Maybe I need to consider a Blow out barrel from a shot out 6mm to do this while fireforming cases.
This project is getting more expensive all the time..
Attachments
Like many, I was excited when lapua started making 22-250 brass. I have 6XC's and 6-6.5X47 Lapuas.
I have indeed used the new Lapua 22-250 brass for both, but the route I used to get there was a bit funky.
This all stemmed from my desire to see if the flash hole size on the 47L brass was a cause for such frustrating inconsistency in the couple of 6-6.5X47's i have built. I initally used 6XC Norma brass for this experiment, but it requires a great deal of trimming as it sends up being longer.
Anyway, when using 22-250 brass to make 6XC cartridges, the neck ends up being much shorter than the 6XC case, but it still works.
What I found was that if you form your neck-expanded 22-250 brass in one of Tubb's excellent 6XC re-size/bump dies, it is very easy to take the too-short new 6XC case and run it into a 6-6.5X47 die for final re-sizing. If you fire-form into a 6XC and THEN run them into a 6X47L dies, you are very close to the length of a Lapua case, and no trimming is required.
I have taken off my 6X47 barrel for the winter, but I will resurrect this project when i have some better weather and some time to play, but the moral of the story is, 22-250 Lapua brass makes EXCELLENT 6X47 brass with a larger flash hole and primer.
I have indeed used the new Lapua 22-250 brass for both, but the route I used to get there was a bit funky.
This all stemmed from my desire to see if the flash hole size on the 47L brass was a cause for such frustrating inconsistency in the couple of 6-6.5X47's i have built. I initally used 6XC Norma brass for this experiment, but it requires a great deal of trimming as it sends up being longer.
Anyway, when using 22-250 brass to make 6XC cartridges, the neck ends up being much shorter than the 6XC case, but it still works.
What I found was that if you form your neck-expanded 22-250 brass in one of Tubb's excellent 6XC re-size/bump dies, it is very easy to take the too-short new 6XC case and run it into a 6-6.5X47 die for final re-sizing. If you fire-form into a 6XC and THEN run them into a 6X47L dies, you are very close to the length of a Lapua case, and no trimming is required.
I have taken off my 6X47 barrel for the winter, but I will resurrect this project when i have some better weather and some time to play, but the moral of the story is, 22-250 Lapua brass makes EXCELLENT 6X47 brass with a larger flash hole and primer.
I have recently made a batch of 6*47L brass from LR primer Lapua 308 with only the FL sizing die (and turning/trimming/annealing gear but no other forming dies). I imagine all the cases mentioned above would do the job equally as well or better.
They shoot exceptionally well but so did all the other methods we tried for 6*47L (ie magnum Primers, enlarged flasholes etc). We got all to shoot. I shoot in warmer weather though and imagine those of you in the cold might have a lot more trouble getting consistent ignition. If your reason is for cheaper brass then go for it, if it is to improve igntion I would try magnum primer with enlarged flashole first it is much easier.
Rtheurer - the accordian is either too much lube on the case (or actually up on shoulder in die), or trying to bump shoulder back too much in one go. Try getting a swab and cleaning out lube. Only lube body and slight touch on neck (none on shoulder), then raise the die up in press by undoing a bit. Take a little at a time on each press. ie wind die up till just touching shoulder at cam over point. Then rock press up and down, advancing die <1/16 of a turn at a time. Brass will form well but you will probably have to turn the necks. Annealing helps this process immensely.
They shoot exceptionally well but so did all the other methods we tried for 6*47L (ie magnum Primers, enlarged flasholes etc). We got all to shoot. I shoot in warmer weather though and imagine those of you in the cold might have a lot more trouble getting consistent ignition. If your reason is for cheaper brass then go for it, if it is to improve igntion I would try magnum primer with enlarged flashole first it is much easier.
Rtheurer - the accordian is either too much lube on the case (or actually up on shoulder in die), or trying to bump shoulder back too much in one go. Try getting a swab and cleaning out lube. Only lube body and slight touch on neck (none on shoulder), then raise the die up in press by undoing a bit. Take a little at a time on each press. ie wind die up till just touching shoulder at cam over point. Then rock press up and down, advancing die <1/16 of a turn at a time. Brass will form well but you will probably have to turn the necks. Annealing helps this process immensely.
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