21st Century primer pocket uniformer

[Elwood]

Any thoughts on the adjustable primer pocket uniformer?
I have several of Johns products and know of their quality. I'm currently using a Sinclair uniform tool but I have wondered sometimes if I'm taking out more brass than necessary with it, not helped by the fact that I detest uniforming primer pockets.

 

[DngBat7]

Any thoughts on the adjustable primer pocket uniformer?
I have several of Johns products and know of their quality. I'm currently using a Sinclair uniform I got tool but I have wondered sometimes if I'm taking out more brass than necessary with it, not helped by the fact that I detest uniforming primer pockets.

I know this does not answer your question. Km has a nice one. Well made and super sharp. And it comes preadjusted to the exact correct length

 

[jepp2]

I'm currently using a Sinclair uniform I got tool but I have wondered sometimes if I'm taking out more brass than necessary with it

I use the Sinclair tool also. I never worry about the amount of brass I am removing. When I measure the depth of the seated primers, they are just where I want them. If it is cutting a lot, a lot needed to be removed. And it is a once in the case life operation, kind of like swaging a crimped primer pocket. I would be concerned on an adjustable cutter, it could shift and then start cutting too much.

 

[powderbrake]

I have the 21st Century adjustable primer pocket reamer, and it works great! I use it in a lathe for large number of cases, or with a 1/4 hex drive for doing just a few by hand. Easy to set, and it hold the setting.

I do not use it to clean out primer pockets, for that I use the Hornady cleaner tool with the face full of small pyramids.

 

[Petros284]

One great feature (besides the adjustability factor) with our 21st Century uniformer is that the cutter is ground on one end for large primer and the other for small primer. Thanks!

Pete Petros
21st Century Shooting

 

[Bob Sebold]

I would not shoot without it.

 

[LoanHarvey]

One great feature (besides the adjustability factor) with our 21st Century uniformer is that the cutter is ground on one end for large primer and the other for small primer. Thanks!

Pete Petros
21st Century Shooting

Is there a standard starting/recommended depth for the small and large primer pockets for rifle brass?

 

[jepp2]

Is there a standard starting/recommended depth for the small and large primer pockets for rifle brass?

Here is where I would start:

 

[_Raining]

Is there a standard starting/recommended depth for the small and large primer pockets for rifle brass?

If you want to be sure you are not overdoing it you can adjust down until you remove 70% (Or w.e % you fell like) of material.

I am pretty terrible at shooting so I can't tell you if it makes a difference.

 

[Boatschool02]

I have the 21st Century tool and really like it, paired with their primer seater.
I like being able to take out just enough, which has changed across different lots of brass.
I also use it only for cutting.

 

[piaa1209]

If you want to be sure you are not overdoing it you can adjust down until you remove 70% (Or w.e % you fell like) of material.

I am pretty terrible at shooting so I can't tell you if it makes a difference.

I have both a K/M & 21st century and they both work great. The only problem (21st century) I've had is it leaves a mark on the case head ( had to take a fine stone to the case head surface). If 21st century would put a .010 chamfer (on the outside) or surface grind the face where the cutter goes in for a smooth surface, it would be even better.

 

[Elwood]

Out of interest I purchased the K&M primer pocket uniformer and compared it against my Sinclair one. The K&M removes much more material than the Sinclair, and the Sinclair will cut to a flat bottom. For the time being I will stick with the Fixed depth Sinclair, I can't see the point in taking out anymore brass than necessary.
I hope to get my hands on the 21st Century primer pocket uniformer very soon so I can have a good look at it.

I appreciate all the replies so far.

 

[Petros284]

I have both a K/M & 21st century and they both work great. The only problem (21st century) I've had is it leaves a mark on the case head ( had to take a fine stone to the case head surface). If 21st century would put a .010 chamfer (on the outside) or surface grind the face where the cutter goes in for a smooth surface, it would be even better.

Sorry to hear you are having issues please send the tool back to us and we will replace. Sounds like some parts got through our QC process. Here are the return instructions. http://nebula.wsimg.com/277e1fbe593...5AA0C95BD1D877538&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

Thanks and good shooting

Pete Petros
21st Century Shooting

 

[BOB LEE SWAGGER]

Here is where I would start:

View attachment 1071756

How can the max primer height be more than the primer pocket max depth?

 

[jepp2]

How can the max primer height be more than the primer pocket max depth?

Well, since I wasn't part of the SAAMI spec development, I can only comment on a possibility. The primer height could be the distance from the top of the primer to the bottom of the legs of the anvil. And when a primer is properly seated, we know the anvil is pressed into the priming compound to increase sensitivity. Thus reducing the primer height.

 

[mikehotel]

I have two. One is set for small primers and the other for large, that way I don't have to readjust when switching calibers

 

[Uncle Ed]

How can the max primer height be more than the primer pocket max depth?

Measure the primer height you plan to use and then the primer pocket depth.

Example my Remington 9 1/2 primers were taller than the depth of my Lake City 7.62 primer pockets. Meaning primer brands vary in height and the required force and crush to get them slightly below flush.

These primers would have stood proud of the primer pocket .002 or .003 if excessive primer crush was not used.

I used the fixed K&M primer pocket uniformer and removed approximately .003 and the primers now fit below flush, without excessive crush.

NOTE, I used a tooth brush dipped in powdered graphite to clean the brass from the reamer. This lubes the face and reamer and prevents galling on the rear of the case.

Below a exaggerated image of seating a primer with some primer crush.

 

[piaa1209]

Measure the primer height you plan to use and then the primer pocket depth.

Example my Remington 9 1/2 primers were taller than the depth of my Lake City 7.62 primer pockets. Meaning primer brands vary in height and the required force and crush to get them slightly below flush.

These primers would have stood proud of the primer pocket .002 or .003 if excessive primer crush was not used.

I used the fixed K&M primer pocket uniformer and removed approximately .003 and the primers now fit below flush, without excessive crush.

NOTE, I used a tooth brush dipped in powdered graphite to clean the brass from the reamer. This lubes the face and reamer and prevents galling on the rear of the case.

Below a exaggerated image of seating a primer with some primer crush.

CCI primers usually run .127. Do make your primer pockets .127 or do you make them say .130 and when seating do you want the crush or primer just to touch the bottom. I'm new with these primer tools. Just trying to learn if you need the crush or just touch. Thanks

 

[Gary Wells]

Using the K&M, and maybe the others also, on nickel plated cases will cause premature wearing of the cutter segment, and will dull the cutter surface. Even though the cutter segment has room for some adjustments it will require re-setting and eventually replacement.