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21st Century or Accuracy One? Buying one.

Here’s a few things that can help: Washers under the die lock nut are a good idea. Forster co ax press helps too. An arbor press with Wilson dies if you want to go all out. Always good to check run out early on after sizing your first few cases. Putting a shim between shell holder and bottom of die helps align die to be plumb on presses that don’t float. MEC press has a spring on shell holder that lets it float. Bushings should be left a bit loose. Some will never use an expander button. Some will use two lock nuts and sandwich an O ring between the two. Neck turning, reaming, good chamber- all help. Measuring at all phases is going to indicate what is going on. Measure, measure,measure . And measure early on so you don’t size many cases if there is an issue. 21st Century is great and Accuracy One are probably even better. Sinclair good too- but might have to wedge indicator holder to main post or support indicator holder underneath if there is play. And you should use two fingers with Sinclair(or some sought of hard rubber edge to turn case).
 
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Here’s a few things that can help: Washers under the die lock nut are a good idea. Forster co ax press helps too. An arbor press with Wilson dies if you want to go all out. Always good to check run out early on after sizing your first few cases. Putting a shim between shell holder and bottom of die helps align die to be plumb on presses that don’t float. MEC press has a spring on shell holder that lets it float. Bushings should be left a bit loose. Some will never use an expander button. Some will use two lock nuts and sandwich an O ring between the two. Neck turning, reaming, good chamber- all help. Measuring at all phases is going to indicate what is going on. Measure, measure,measure . And measure early on so you don’t size many cases if there is an issue. 21st Century is great and Accuracy One are probably even better. Sinclair good too- but might have to wedge indicator holder to main post or support indicator holder underneath if there is play. And you should use two fingers with Sinclair(or some sought of hard rubber edge to turn case).
that's some good info right there
 
Lotta good info here. I'll take it a step deeper.
The root cause of ammo runout is brass thickness variances.
The major contributor to runout is sizing of thickness variances.
Add more of either, you get more runout.

Most reloaders concerned about loaded runout have not acted with or even considered things with this understanding. Instead, they focus nearer the end product with well suggested actions addressing a minor contributor: sizing misalignments. This is sizing floating, expander mandrels, neck turning, etc.
That's ok, as this is usually enough,, brass is good enough,, clearances are high enough.

Don't overlook the basis of your runout concern. How & when will loaded runout matter?
Some think the endeavor is to get bullets, as chambered, pointing true to bore-line. But listen; just assume that isn't happening, that bullets find their center anyway, and that research into this will reveal nothing to the contrary. Truth is, your chambered bullets can be pointed badly w/resp to bore-line, seated into lands or well off, and shoot fantastic -until a certain point. Many have tested and found that loaded runout doesn't matter for them until they reach ~3-4thou TIR. So why does it matter there?
It's because that's where they ran out of chamber clearances. Their chambered bananas are causing abstract pressure points to the barrel (from inside the chamber). It's little different than resting a thumb against a barrel mid group shooting (go ahead & see what that does for you).

All the rave today is not in making straight ammo, but in having ever bigger chamber clearances. Right?
Makes total sense,, in the short term(nothing is free). But you can also find a pretty good plan, in the long term, if you go back to the root cause and the major contributor of this issue.
There are two circular paths here, both centered on your best die (your chamber):

#1 You go big sloppy chamber. In it, you fire new brass with all it's thickness variance. That's a lot of sizing of thickness variance right there, but the chamber walls have nicely hammered thickness inward. The smoking brass comes out fairly low in runout. But the brass also yielded considerably, plastic for a bit, and now it doesn't springback well enough for clear extraction. It will have to be sized(opposite direction yielding) a good amount. Again, your sizing thickness variance -a lot. With each cycle of this, runout grows. Even worse, being an extreme kind of reloader, you also size necks to excessive interference.
So runout is growing, you're trimming away a lot of brass, your pockets are loosening, etc. But it shoots well for a while with that brass. That is, until your sized case capacities vary too much, and your bananas press against the chamber, and primers won't stay seated the same.
That's an extreme, this is another:

#2 You go improved cartridge, fitted chamber. This, with no more than 1thou clearance from new brass (anywhere). You measure new brass thickness variance at necks(which indicates thickness variance locations, full case length), culling out cases with variance and where leaving a mean in thickness. You also turn necks if needed to EXACTLY the same, and potentially mitigate donut formation. Now your fired brass comes out dead straight, as a good chamber provides. The brass character has not been altered much, still like new, and it springs back free of chamber for extraction. Then you run that brass through minimal sizing, with a custom die, barely inducing any runout (if at all). You size necks to no more than 1thou interference for no more length than seated bullet bearing and where load development led you.
50 reload cycles later, your TIR is still below 1thou, you haven't trimmed cases beyond initial, pockets are still tight, and case capacities still match (if you had culled to match them earlier). If you find growing runout, that you're minor contributors (sizing misalignments) are in play, well it's a lot easier to find & fix in this scenario. And with any next firing, in your best die, you're back to baseline.

You don't have to go extremes either way, but it really does help to plan with understanding of them.
If you go factory, 30-06, do not exhaust efforts over ~4thou of runout. It's a losing battle for nothing.
In contrast, if you're reaching for more with an improved 6.5x47, and you have an action providing enough breech support & barrel steel around the chamber, now you can sit down with a blank reamer print and plan it all out. You do it right and a runout gauge will serve only to validate your planned end result.
 
I have owned and used both units. I found both were of the highest quality and were easy to use. I sold both and now have one that was made by a machinist for his own uses. It is slow to use but works fine. Once I was educated about using only custom dies made around and by my reamer that chambers my barrels, checking concentricity is more of a curiosity than a necessity any more. I think if you have to run all your loaded rounds through one, you have something else going on that needs to be addressed...........But like I said, either unit will serve you well....:cool:

Regards
Rick
 
Put up a wtb ad. Most i know of are gathering dust on shelves. I got the accuracy one but its only because the 21st didnt have a wheel. Id buy the 21st now
 
I have the Century 21 with the wheel works great no complaints. Super info from Glenn.
 
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I have the 21th Century one. The O ring is a white - looks like silicon. Doesn’t fit tight. So you get a gap when you roll a case. If you try to reverse the gap causes a big jump. I just use my hand so it can roll back a fourth to find high spot.
Good tool that I recommend.
 

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