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21st Century or Accuracy One? Buying one.

Thanks to all who helped me recently in my other thread. I need a concentricity gauge. Main interest is to help diagnose shortcomings in my reloading routine. The new 21st Century has the wheel, very similar in appearance to the Accuracy One. Looks like about a hundred bucks less expensive. Which one should I buy? Read everything I could find here these last few nights. Too new to reloading to have a firm opinion.


Dan
 
The Accuracy One has served me well. The wheel is a great feature and I think either would do a fine job. Chasing concentricity can be crazy making....Best of luck
 
I'm sure your right about the crazy part. Too late. Sitting up at all hours of the night reading about base to ogive measurements, proper headspace, etc. oh-jive, meeh-plah, nothing is at it seems to a new reloader, not even the pronunciation. Its fun in an eating jello with a fork kind of way.

I just started reloading last year and want to sharpen my skills. Lots of ways to do that, some hard data (from gauges) can only help. Or so I convinced the wife when I slipped the credit card from her wallet just now at dinner. Man, this sure is some goood chili. Wow, how about that moist cornbread.

My buddy and I are shooting rifles Saturday and if I shoot a 0.435" group with one 'flyer' an inch off target, I would have no idea if it was my shooting technique, quality of reloads, or the wind. That would keep me up more so than a Brian Litz article. It's time to start identifying weaknesses.



Dan
 
I like the 21 Century gauge.

It will definitely show the weakness in your reloading process, and make you much better at reloading.

I wish I had bought it sooner.

Glenn
 
Saw two videos with the Accuracy One. None could be found for the 21st Century. Curious how easy the wheel on 21st is to use. On the site, I can only see one side of the wheel. Not sure if it has a handle on the side like the Accuracy One or if folks just roll the outer portion of the wheel.



Dan
 
Dan,

No handle on the 21st; I just added it to mine and while it's a LOT better than spinning the case by hand, it's a little fussy. I probably just need more time with it. If price were no object I'd get the Accuracy One, but I'm cheap, sooo...

Dennis
 
Hi, A video of the new wheel for the concentricity (runout) gage.
Thanks, John
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dc-9gbw8Iso
 
Danattherock said:
Saw two videos with the Accuracy One. None could be found for the 21st Century. Curious how easy the wheel on 21st is to use. On the site, I can only see one side of the wheel. Not sure if it has a handle on the side like the Accuracy One or if folks just roll the outer portion of the wheel.



Dan

I will do a video on the 21st Century concentricity gauge very soon. I will upload it to my YouTube channel.
 
Man you guys got to quit showing me this stuff, cause I think I have enough and the wife keeps asking do you really need that? Love this stuff.

Joe Salt
 
I tried the Sinclair and Neco gauges and sent them back, too fussy and slow. I 've used the CTK concentricity gauge sold by Accuracy 1 for 2-3 years, it is expensive but worth every penny. I use it on every round I make, about 100-200 a week, so something that is easy to use, accurate and consistent is a must.

If you haven't seen the video here it is : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UukFQTa6Gws

Joe
 
I have the 21st Century (without the wheel). The only thing I don't like about it is the pointy bearings tend to mark your cases if you are not really careful with how much pressure you use. I suppose the wheel might solve this problem to some extent, but flat bearings would be better IMHO. Otherwise it is serving me well.
 
Got the wheel in the mail today for my 21st Century unit. I just tested it and it changes the tool from one that is somewhat touchy and difficult to use into one that is easy to use. Well done, John!
 
Thanks again guys. Really appreciate the insights you more experienced folks share. I just ordered the 21st Century gauge with wheel. The video, along with the fact that John posted it, made it a very easy purchase decision.


Anyone with a little time to share...

I'm curious how to get the most use out of this gauge. I am under the impression that measuring runout will let me know if my die set up, choice of dies (Redding Deluxe 223), and bullet seating technique is off. Read about partially seating bullet, turning 180, then fully seating bullet. I read where some folks put rubber O ring under seating stem to allow self leveling of sorts to minimize runout. Not a clear consensus on how effective this may be.

Exactly where on the bullet should I set the gauge to measure? What other measurements do you guys get with concentricity gauges? I am not familiar with measuring inside and outside of case mouth, which is relevant to trimming necks I suspect. I am not sure yet I will turn necks, but open to the idea. Any suggestions on a neck turning tool I should research? Anyone using the 21st Century mini lathe?

I've read that 0.002 or less is acceptable, some quoting 0.0015. So, am I basically just using this tool to see what runout I'm creating, then trying to isolate the culprit? Would appreciate any basic insights that might point me in the right direction.

Lots of questions and I don't expect anyone to answer them all. I realize that I rely too much on this forum but that will soon change. Don't expect to stay ignorant, but that is unfortunately my current state. Thanks for your time and any suggestions generated on my behalf. I am very impressed with the depth of knowledge and candor displayed by the forum members here.



Dan
 
Since I have this super sensitive 21st Century run out gauge, I have learned a lot about reloading. Now, I also have a Widden precision 6.5x47 FL bushing die also.

My observations are that if the neck OD/ID has runout, the loaded bullet will have as much - or even more runout at the ogive.

1. Fired brass has nearly no runout on the neck OD, if your rifles chamber and throat were reamed round and concentric. Most of my barrels are excellent in this regard.

2. Most of the typical sizing die operations in reloading, destroy neck run out on fired brass because the equipment is crappy and the operator doesn't know he is hurting the neck runout.

3. Neck sizing bushings are not intended to correct runout. They are intended to float "loosely" radially and vertically in the die and will not make runout worse than was is previously. They just size the OD of the brass neck - if it is ductile and does not have memory.

4. We know we can jam the bushing down into the bottom of the die, and straighten up necks, but it's a real trial and error deal.

5. When you push back the shoulder without a neck bushing in place, the dies shoulder taper may not push back the shoulder evenly, causing the neck cylinder to tilt. This makes for neck run out. A bushing is needed just to keep the neck cylinder from tilting excessively.

6. Neck ID sizing mandrels - even special ones - and size buttons generally wreck the neck run out.

7. Nearly every tool that touches the neck needs to float. I have a #17 o-ring under the shell holder, and one under the FL sizing die. This helps compensate for the crappy press machine dimensions. The shell holder and the 7/8 die bushing are definitely not on the same center.

8. If you size the fired neck down, then back up again with a mandrel or button to fit the neck turning lathe mandrel perfectly, you will have perfect wall thickness, but potentially a bunch of neck run out. Sizing the neck, just for turning is dangerous in this respect.

Bottom line is the necks from fired brass should be treated as gold. All devices that touch the neck must not be rigid or influence that cylinder of the neck in any way.

To keep the bump or FL sizing die from tilting the neck, you need to set the die up carefully (with o-rings) and use the run out gauge to verify the die is set up okay with no damage to the neck, before running a bunch of brass. Do this, and you can run 50 brass easily with neck runout at .002" or less. It's damn near impossible to do this any other way with the equipment I have.

You all may know all this already, and either agree or disagree, but this has been my findings.

Glenn



Sent from my iPhone
 
Lots of new info there and will take some research to help digest. That's exactly what I'm after though. Thank you very much for the detailed reply. Lots of new thought provoking content.


Dan
 
Xhuntress said:
I have the 21st Century (without the wheel). The only thing I don't like about it is the pointy bearings tend to mark your cases if you are not really careful with how much pressure you use. I suppose the wheel might solve this problem to some extent, but flat bearings would be better IMHO. Otherwise it is serving me well.

Hi, The narrow contacting area of the rollers is by design. :)
Decreasing roller contact area on the case increases overall accuracy of the gauge.
Wide bearing wheels are more likely to pick up more case imperfections,
possibly introducing false runout readings on the indicator.

Thanks, John
 
I do not have one of john's concentricity gauges but I do have several of his other tools. In my opinion everything he makes is top notch quality and for the precision offered a really good value. I think it helps when you get a tool and die guy that also like to shoot. He talks to shooters about what they want and gives it to them. I won't say anything bad about other's equipment. All I know is you won't go wrong with anything at 21st century. And John does not pay me to say that!
 
I was impressed when I got an email this morning at 9:06 am saying my gauge had shipped out. Off to a good start. Can't wait to get my hands on it and start learning something new about my reloads.


Dan
 

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