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20VT with Accurate 2200. Already at 21 grains & 3550 fps

Also, Lapua brass is thicker than remington and 18.3 is probably considered max by many people for a fire formed load. 18 being max on a non-ff load.
 
Have you ever been on saubier.com? There is a thread with 20VT load data that is very good. 18.7 is probably .2 grains more than most people fear to tread. You may see some pressure signs once it warms up a bit more. Consensus would be that H4198 is the better performer vs. IMR, but every rifle is different.

The pressure might be a factor because it was 50 degrees here today and in Montana in the summer could be 100. But, the load worked well at 18.3 to my max of 18.7. I have not loaded the rounds yet and could opt for the 18.3 to be sure of no pressure with the heat. So much to learn and know.
 
Today, I loaded up H4198 and that is the load I'm going with. On my 22" barrel, I get 3755 avg. fps with 18.7 grains with the 32 grain Vmax. Good speed and great accuracy. I also used RL7 with the Berger 35 grain varmint with 19.25 grain. The RL7 was a 100 slower than the H4198. Now I'm wondering what IMR4198 will do???? Does anyone have a clue????? Have to try it as I have 8lbs of it. ;)

That's good you are finding some speed but it could suck if the primer pockets were expanded too much in 3 firings.

I chose H4198 because of it's temp stability being in the extreme powder line, plus it has great load density.

IMO, pick your favorite bullet, and primer, then do a ladder test at 300y. I found a nice load in 14 shots doing this. I picked the low node to make sure my brass and barrel lasted the longest. I know how to dial elevation and windage, or holdover/holdoff accordingly. It's only a click or two more than a hot load going 100 fps faster.

I have rifles I use the high node on too, but those nodes are only warm loads, not hot loads, and I tend to stick with temp insensitive powders anyway, so no problems come summer. It's a been there done that thing....
 
That's good you are finding some speed but it could suck if the primer pockets were expanded too much in 3 firings.

I chose H4198 because of it's temp stability being in the extreme powder line, plus it has great load density.

IMO, pick your favorite bullet, and primer, then do a ladder test at 300y. I found a nice load in 14 shots doing this. I picked the low node to make sure my brass and barrel lasted the longest. I know how to dial elevation and windage, or holdover/holdoff accordingly. It's only a click or two more than a hot load going 100 fps faster.

I have rifles I use the high node on too, but those nodes are only warm loads, not hot loads, and I tend to stick with temp insensitive powders anyway, so no problems come summer. It's a been there done that thing....

Yes, you are way more knowledgeable than I am. Our range only goes to 200 yards. I always pick the tightest group I can with load testing at 100 yards about an inch high and then find out where it shoots at 200 and then go from there. An "inch high at 100 yards" is a joke but it's what I use. ha
 
Anyone using Viht N120 and the 32 grainers in their 20 VT's????

I'd sure try it IF it was available anywhere locally on the shelf, as my absolute most accurate 223 load is with N133, so I'd wager a very good 20VT load could be had using N120. Theoretically at least, as I seem to remember long ago when it was more available, I read very good things about it in the VT and M4 here and over on Saubier.
 
Yes, you are way more knowledgeable than I am. Our range only goes to 200 yards. I always pick the tightest group I can with load testing at 100 yards about an inch high and then find out where it shoots at 200 and then go from there. An "inch high at 100 yards" is a joke but it's what I use. ha

I know how that is, it's what I did for most of my adult life, and it works fine for average distances.

It takes a little research and study, plus some hands on just to get your mind wrapped around doing so, but with a smart phone ballistic app (or a dope card generated from JBM) and a decent scope, but getting first round hits even with a 20VT out to 500Y isn't all that hard in light winds. You will need a decent range finder though.
 
I know how that is, it's what I did for most of my adult life, and it works fine for average distances.

It takes a little research and study, plus some hands on just to get your mind wrapped around doing so, but with a smart phone ballistic app (or a dope card generated from JBM) and a decent scope, but getting first round hits even with a 20VT out to 500Y isn't all that hard in light winds. You will need a decent range finder though.

I got the Swarvoski 5 -25 scope on the 20Vt but do not have a range finder. Tell me what kind to get?
 
I got the Swarvoski 5 -25 scope on the 20Vt but do not have a range finder. Tell me what kind to get?

Nice scope!

Nikon has the new 3000 and 4000 range finders, I would think those would work well and they aren't very expensive.

I have a Vectronix now, it's expensive and works fantastic, but before that I was not satisfied with the 3 other brands I had. One was even 1000Y rated but it didn't range well past 500Y.

A friend has a Leica 1600 that ranged well past 1000Y.

The thing is to plan on buying a range finder rated for twice the distance you plan on shooting because most of the time the distance rating is for reflective targets which range easy, it's the non reflective targets that don't range easy but the important ones to consider.
 
Nice scope!

Nikon has the new 3000 and 4000 range finders, I would think those would work well and they aren't very expensive.

I have a Vectronix now, it's expensive and works fantastic, but before that I was not satisfied with the 3 other brands I had. One was even 1000Y rated but it didn't range well past 500Y.

A friend has a Leica 1600 that ranged well past 1000Y.

The thing is to plan on buying a range finder rated for twice the distance you plan on shooting because most of the time the distance rating is for reflective targets which range easy, it's the non reflective targets that don't range easy but the important ones to consider.

Thanks so much. I'm just now trying to research range finders with binoculars. I wonder if that is the way to go or just the range finder. I will look into the Vectronix.
 

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