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20 VarTarg Brass

It does work.
How much did you take off of the necks? If you are needing a .225 bushing to "hold" the bullet, then you probably turned too much off the necks. With the chamber being .232, you need to only take enough off the necks so that a loaded round measures .229-.230
So, for instance if you turn some off the necks and use a .227 bushing and then load a round and mic it and it is .229, this means you have about .002 "grip"/ tension on the seated bullet and you will have .003 clearance in your chamber.
What does your loaded round neck measure using the .225 bushing?

Gene
 
How much did you take off of the necks? If you are needing a .225 bushing to "hold" the bullet, then you probably turned too much off the necks. With the chamber being .232, you need to only take enough off the necks so that a loaded round measures .229-.230
So, for instance if you turn some off the necks and use a .227 bushing and then load a round and mic it and it is .229, this means you have about .002 "grip"/ tension on the seated bullet and you will have .003 clearance in your chamber.
What does your loaded round neck measure using the .225 bushing?

Gene
Exactly what I did for these Rem 17FB to 20FB cases; my reamer supposedly is .2325, very light skim cut taking diameter to .2291-4 and then run into 17FB die with a .227 bushing.
 

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My LC 223 brass i formed to 20VT i use a .227 bushing for a loaded .2285 in a .232 chamber neck
 
One thing I just thought of just because a bushing is stamped a certain size doesn't mean it is.
 
Thanks for the reloading info...one powder that I didn't see on their list was A2200...if you come across some, you need to try it. It really does the 20VT justice...but there are several real good powders on the list that will serve you just as well.
Did Cooper say anything about the chamber at the .200 datum line with Lapua brass?
Neck turning isn't a big deal...once you have your amount of brass necked turned, you shouldn't have to worry about it for a long time...the 20VT is not rough on brass, so it should last awhile.

Gene
Thanks Gene. I'll add the AA2200 to my list, I do have some.
 
Well... I was able to get the Hornady FL Seating die to work with the Lapua .221 Fireball brass. No bushing, just the full-length die. The best part, only $42.99 . It took about 4-6 weeks to arrive on a backorder. Here's the link for anyone interested in saving a few hundred dollars.


ReloadingBum
 
Well... I was able to get the Hornady FL Seating die to work with the Lapua .221 Fireball brass. No bushing, just the full-length die. The best part, only $42.99 . It took about 4-6 weeks to arrive on a backorder. Here's the link for anyone interested in saving a few hundred dollars.


ReloadingBum
The design of the
Well... I was able to get the Hornady FL Seating die to work with the Lapua .221 Fireball brass. No bushing, just the full-length die. The best part, only $42.99 . It took about 4-6 weeks to arrive on a backorder. Here's the link for anyone interested in saving a few hundred dollars.


ReloadingBum
 
I just picked up 100 pieces of once fired R&P Brass, 221 Fireball, ran it through my 20VT, REDDING FL die and it works fine. Just figured I'd share. The cost was not cheap.
 
I just picked up 100 pieces of once fired R&P Brass, 221 Fireball, ran it through my 20VT, REDDING FL die and it works fine. Just figured I'd share. The cost was not cheap.
If you want the nicest fit you test it in your rifle with a stripped bolt(no firing pin or ejector), bumping down the shoulder a little at a time until the bolt closes with just a hint of resistance. Perfect fit for no unnecessary brass stretching!
 

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