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1st time loader. Tru-line Junior Lyman press. Confirm my process

Hi all,
I have read alot of post on various forums, and viewed hours on youtube.
I think I´m ready for my first time of reloading, but I will ask if any of you professionals can confirm my process.

I have bought an old Tru-Line Junior Lyman press, fully equiped.
The functioning of this press I believe to have under control, after youtube movies.
The press, and all loading «stuff» is from the late 60’s.

I have a 38/357 die set, and will load for my S&W 357 Magnum Revolver, 6’’ barrel length.
I have many bullets from Hornady, 38 cal. 148 Gr. .358 Lead HB WC, and many Remington Kleanbore Primers, No. 1 1/2
The gun powder is in original (but opened) containers. Type Norma R-1 and R-23. There is no acidic smell, and no apparant rust or anything.

Now my questions:

1. Can I use this old «stuff»? From what I have found, the answer would be yes.
2. Can I use same bullets and primers for both 38special and .357 magnum? (Different casings of course.)
3. I should use the R-1 powder, and use 2.5 grains/0.162 grams for 38special, and 3.1 grains/0.2 grams for .357?

And as a bonus question; does anyone have a step-by-step, no posibility of mistake, explanation of how to set the powder measurement on this press? (I believe it says No. 55 Ideal on the powder part, and it has two different skrews for adjusting gaps)

Really appreciate any answers!

Best regards from Oslo, Norway!
 
The answer to # 1 & 2 is Yes.
The answer to # 3 is: Use the powders recommended in the reloading manuals and use only the charge weights recommended in said manuals. DO NOT just start out with a load that someone recommended. That is the best way for an accident to happen. Always start at the lowest load and work up. Learn how to recognize pressure signs. That will tell you when you are approaching high pressure and when to stop adding powder.

Don't know about the bonus question.

Additional: Read, and thoroughly understand, at least 3 different manuals before you start making rounds.

Good luck
 
I suggest if at all possible, work with an experienced handloader to learn the ropes. You will find it much safer and educational than the internet

Yep, having a mentor is the best way to learn ANYTHING. No sense reinventing the wheel. They can also save you money by telling you what to buy and also WHAT NOT TO BUY. There are a lot of gimmick accessories on the market that are just a waste of time and money.

Regarding the measure, when in doubt just get a new measure. And spend decent money on one. Don't go cheap with a measure. It will last you your entire life with proper care and will make reloading a lot less frustrating.
 
I would start with low pressure 38 special to limit risk, but I looked at Norma's web site (for loading data for your listed powders) but found no pistol loading data. You might be better served by picking up an inexpensive powder (if you can find one) with established loading data preferably from the powder manufacturer. If you don't have a loading manual, most of the powder companies have data on their web sites. What are you using as a powder measure?

Make sure you know what you are doing. Make few rounds at a time before testing so you don't make a bunch of stuff that ends up not working out.



John
 
1. Can I use this old «stuff»? From what I have found, the answer would be yes.
2. Can I use same bullets and primers for both 38special and .357 magnum? (Different casings of course.)
3. I should use the R-1 powder, and use 2.5 grains/0.162 grams for 38special, and 3.1 grains/0.2 grams for .357?
1. Yes, as long as a press works with your dies, the results will not change due to the model or frame of the press to the first order. That isn't to say that making mistakes isn't harder or easier based on the press type or brand, but is saying that once the die makes contact with a shell holder there is no difference.

2. The 38 Special and 357 Magnum can share many bullet weights. A 148 grain is an example of a weight that is common to both. You would find that traditional bullet weights for the two overlap at that weight. The 148 being a little on the higher end for 38 and medium end of 357.

3. Small arms load manuals usually give a range of charges/pressure/velocity. Beware when only one is shown as you don't get a view toward the sensitivity. Better to start out with a modern powder with available data and get some experience with low, medium, fast loads in your pistol. Unless someone with lots of experience with that powder chimes in and gives you an idea of how that powder ranks, I would look elsewhere for an available modern powder to start out, and then use up your R-1 once you have a better idea.

The question on the powder measure is affected by the answer in #3, meaning because we don't have much reloading data on R-1 powder, it would be hard to give advice on the high-low tolerance you should accept from that powder drop.

No press actuated or hand operated volumetric powder drop is perfect. Finer grain powders usually give tighter extreme spreads in a drop when compared to coarse grain powders. You would expect to see a statistic that is not perfect, even if the average is on the mark. The way you look at powder drops and load recipes in your specific pistol is a system, as well as the contribution of your powder drop. The results of your combined selections gives better or worse performance, part of which is driven by how that powder plays combined with how tightly your powder drop runs, among many other variables.
 
Thanks for helping out, guys!

I have found information on how to set up the Lyman No.55 Ideal powder measure device. There are markings on it to identify different grains. But I will measure the result on a scale before loading.

As for the powder, I see that it is the fastest burning powder, faster then the N310.

I will have to continue looking for tables on grain measures, and see if I can find a min and max load then.

I will try to find someone who can show me how to do this, but so far all I have talked to say they only purchase original rounds.

I tried the press, without adding a new primer and powder, and the cartridge appears to be fine, and fits perfectly in my revolver. But I’m not sure if that actually tells me anything
 
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R1 is OK in the 38. I would not bother with the 357 - nothing to be achieved by loading 38 velocities in 357 brass.. It is really fast powder (Possibly the fastest burn rate for a centre fire pistol) and 2.5g sounds about right for a 150g lead projectile. I used it back in the day in 32 S+W long for ISSF matches. (1.6g with a 100g wadcutter) Keep it for target loads in the 38. Weigh it carefully and check your measure regularly.
 
38/357 loads are often small,depending on powder, 2.5-8 grs(.16-0.51 grams). Double charges are possible and would/could damage the firearm/shooter. Detail,attention,knowledge are keys to safely producing ammo.
 
Thanks for helping out, guys!

I have found information on how to set up the Lyman No.55 Ideal powder measure device. There are markings on it to identify different grains. But I will measure the result on a scale before loading.
Absolutely the right way to go. Those markings are for reference only and can never be trusted to be accurate without weighing. Good for you to have recognized that and plan accordingly. Take it slow and easy and feel free to ask questions. We all started where you are at at some point. Good loading and stay safe!
 
R1 is OK in the 38. I would not bother with the 357 - nothing to be achieved by loading 38 velocities in 357 brass.. It is really fast powder (Possibly the fastest burn rate for a centre fire pistol) and 2.5g sounds about right for a 150g lead projectile. I used it back in the day in 32 S+W long for ISSF matches. (1.6g with a 100g wadcutter) Keep it for target loads in the 38. Weigh it carefully and check your measure regularly.
You wouldn’t happen to have a loading data sheet for the R-1? Showing min. and max. loading weight? I can only find the one measurment I linked to above.
I will try to call Norma on Monday.
 
The 55 is one of my favorite powder measures. There is a thumb screw on the back to loosen the large drum and slide it in and out for rough adjustment. Then adjust the larger slide and finally the smaller one. You want most of the adjustments with the drum and only the smallest amount with the small slide.,

Like someone else said the numbers has nothing to do with grain weight and are only reference numbers.

Keep the hopper at least half full and I always dump a couple measures and weigh them when adding powder. I also weigh every ten founds so if there is a discrepancy I only have to break down nine rounds.

Short cut and ball powders work best long grain powders are hard to cut with the 55.
 
I retired my Truline r years ago for reloading but still use it with a 7/8x14 head on it and set it up with four Lee Quick Trim dies and use it for trimming cases. I have 204 die that will trim my 22-204, 6mm-204 and 25-204 and a 223 die that dose my 20P, 223 and 6x45 so it is really a handy setup

OSN2DK.jpg


Before I got a Lee Turret I used it for loading the BUGS, 22 Hornet and 218 Bee.
 
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