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1903 striker spring

Fast14riot

Gold $$ Contributor
Curious if the 24lb "extra power" striker springs are worthwhile in a 1903. Original is 20lb. Gun is a sporter and I would love to get 3/4moa accuracy or better from it, if this will help. Action is bedded, brand new CBI barrel, and a timney trigger are already done.
 
Wont hurt, but those actions have a heavy firing pin and a ton of firing pin fall. Id just replace it with a standard spring.

Thanks, that's along the lines I was thinking. Wasn't sure if there was any increase in ignition reliability or consistency, will likely just replace it with standard.
 
I put one in a hunting 03a3 and quickly took it out , was too heavy and increased bolt lift effort way too much for my taste.
FYI on your bedding, Springfield’s tend to shoot better with 7.5# upward Pressure on the barrel at the forend. I hope whomever bedded it put that in.
 
I put one in a hunting 03a3 and quickly took it out , was too heavy and increased bolt lift effort way too much for my taste.
FYI on your bedding, Springfield’s tend to shoot better with 7.5# upward Pressure on the barrel at the forend. I hope whomever bedded it put that in.

Way to specific of a number to be based in any universal truth. Barrel is fully free floated. I don't know why these old ideas stick around for old guns. Most of us would never consider this for a modern rifle. The 40xb came with click adjustable "tuners" in the stock, they stopped being used by everyone 30+ years ago. Barrel pressure may have helped guns that weren't glass bedded, but with a good stress free bedding job I see no reason to put any pressure on the barrel.

Good info on the striker spring. Thanks.
 
Do what you like but Ive built several, both sporter and military config, they all shoot better with a forend pad. The 7.5 numer is what was told to me by many an old NM armorer and its never failed me yet.
It may have something to do with the fact that the receiver rests on the bottom metal and there is not much area for good bedding pad as a rem 700, IDK. Im just telling you what works.
Simple way to check is to shoot it free floated and if it doesn't group, start placing business cards under the forend to increase upward pressure and see if it calms it down. ONe or two should do it.
 
No. Why would putting more force on the lugs when cocked and more movement when released be good for accuracy? If you were routinely shooting machine gun ammo with extra thick primers it would make sense. Also any reduction in lock time is going to be comical unless it is a massively more powerful spring which makes it more likely to pierce non-military primers. On top of that the entire rifle resonates when the firing pin is released and strikes the primer which 99% of people fail to mention. No different than striking an object with a hammer. If the spring is weak I would replace with like. If the you go too light you get light strikes which can fail to set off the primer. Too many people fail to understand the unimaginably simple forces at work in a rifle which is why they waste money on things that can not possible help but can make things worse. Even with machined lugs and lug locking area machined precisely the firing pin spring forces the lugs to not sit true with the receiver. If you increase spring tension it makes this worse. This is a problem with all 2 lug and single bolts especialy. This was the purpose of Borden Bumps and sleeving the bolt to create a caming surface that is not the locking lugs.
 
Way to specific of a number to be based in any universal truth. Barrel is fully free floated. I don't know why these old ideas stick around for old guns. Most of us would never consider this for a modern rifle. The 40xb came with click adjustable "tuners" in the stock, they stopped being used by everyone 30+ years ago. Barrel pressure may have helped guns that weren't glass bedded, but with a good stress free bedding job I see no reason to put any pressure on the barrel.

Good info on the striker spring. Thanks.
Well idea's that have stood the test of time stick around in absence of people that believe every bit of marketing drivel pumped out by the media so keen on selling them things including idea's!

Free floating does not always produce a good result glass bedded or not.

The lighter the barrel gets the more often a pressure pad is of use.

20 years ago or so everyone shouted from the roof tops that the BOSS system on Browning's and Winchesters for tuning barrel harmonics was a joke and waste and could not work. Now the popular belief has done a 180!



Free floating has become a marketing buzz word! So how do you explain clamping a rifle to the stock by the barrel and free floating the action in space and the part of the barrel not clamped by a huge hunk of metal?

A pressure pad or upward pressure can be done with Agra Glass, JB Weld, Devcon, Neoprene etc....It is bedding the barrel at the far end of the stock. Pressure pads are sometimes molded or machined into factory stocks. Why? While it does not produce as small of a group as free floating it does produce a consistent product with a good first cold bore shot!

I generally prefer a free floated barrel as well but......

What do you do when free floating does not work?

Look closely at this link and the first image/photo you see. Do you see what he is grinding away? It is a pressure pad at the end of a synthetic stock. That is a cheap OEM "synthetic" stock with a pressure pad molded in. I have seen them on almost every model of rifle at some point in history from Remington, Winchester, Ruger and on and on....So why did this OEM build and design this stock this way? Why is it there? https://gundigest.com/more/how-to/gunsmithing/block-bedding-synthetic-model-700
 

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