Shoots100, just for informational purposes on here for yourself and others, the 25 degree shoulder angle actually has slightly less room for powder. (The Ackley Imp. cartridges are normally a 40 degree shoulder.) From my findings the 40 degree shoulder angle is too sharp of a shoulder angle for the tiny confines of the very small bore cartridges. Others might wholeheartedly disagree and have experienced great results with them. I just have never witnessed it or heard of anyone having great success with it in the very small bores. (I am however a big fan of the 40 degree shoulder in my medium and large bore stuff.)
You will have PLENTY of room in your 14-221 Eichelberger for powder so it will not even be an issue to consider. I just wanted you to know that you’ll likely see different results on powder loads in it when comparing notes from the other cartridges of similar designs utilizing the sharper shoulder angle. (I think Eichelberger was probably trying to get around copyrights.) As soon as Remington came out with the 221 Fireball (1963) the Obrien camp quickly “improved” it in 17 caliber (known as the 17 Mach IV) and the Walkers in 14 caliber as the 14-221 Walker design. (Both utilizing the 30 degree shoulder) Both companies had copyrights to those designs which meant you could make them for yourself but if you sold them you had to pay royalties.
When Walker Machine and Tool Company closed their doors in 1976, Bill purchased the last two 14 caliber barrels that Red Shearer made (at least while working for the Walkers). I’d love to know what ever happened to those barrels. (I don’t know if Red continued to make barrels and reamers post his time working for the Walkers. (as a side note his real name was Robert Shearer but went by Red.) He was an exceptional craftsman and trade. His work really helped bring the 14’s to life.
To get back on topic, it appears from the pictures you posted of your Van Horn barrel blank that it is a 6 land grove configuration in a 1 in 9 twist rate from the stampings. (I can’t really see for sure though). If that is the case and you’re interested please let me know if your open to doing some bullet testing post barrel break-in. (I would not advise running heavy’s or high speeds in it until after proper barrel break in. The longer bearing surface on the heavy’s and the higher speeds of the really light bullets can throw off the bore seasoning step. That step is critical in your success with the tiny bores and should be completed carefully.)
I tried to do a little research on the Van Horn 14 caliber barrels on their website. It had listed barrel break in information for their larger bore barrels but not the 14 caliber barrels. (At least that I could find). I will say I personally complete a very different barrel break in method for my 14 caliber barrels from what they have listed on their website for the larger calibers. You might want to see if they have other methods for their 14 caliber barrels as well.
Having said that my 14 caliber barrel break in experience and methods are overwhelmingly weighted to the stainless barrels. Of the twenty one 14 caliber barrels I’ve owned the vast majority are stainless. (I’ve only had 3 Chrom moly barrels.) I predominantly used the same method for breaking them in as I did for my stainless barrels except I used Ws2 in them instead of Moly. (You might find others on here that have vast more experience with 14 caliber Chro Moly barrels to help assist you). You might also look into HBN. (I found no gain in it in my stainless barrels but it might have good results in the Chrom Moly barrels.)
There have been several other site members that have asked for barrel break in and cleaning advice and I don’t want to hi-jack your thread on that topic. (Especially since I have never utilized a Van Horn barrel which is being utilized on your project.) I will try to start a new thread in its regard for others that would like to share what methods they use as well. I think it would be a great tool for yourself and others since the Saubier site is no longer functioning. I’ve seen way too many times people purchase a good 14 caliber rifle “give it a good cleaning” and then they cannot get it to shoot right again. What they really did is unseason (and usually foul) a good barrel. Getting it straightened back out is not an easy task.
Please keep us posted as your project keeps progressing. It should be a very fun, exciting and rewarding adventure.
Carl C.
Extreme Accuracy
www.14caliber.com
