12 LRP 260 Rem Copper Fouling After First Shot

[sawacs]

The other day, I only had a chance to put one round through the brand new Savage 12 LRP barrel: forgot my cleaning stuff. After cleaning the barrel out as Savage recommends today, I took a flashlight to the end and saw the copper. Is this normal for a new barrel to have that much copper? This is the first real precision gun I have owned and wanted to make sure I am breaking the barrel in properly.

Basically, I ran a patch soaked with Hoppes #9 and let it soak for a few followed by 5 strokes with the dewey bronze bore brush. Lastly, I used a jag until the bore came out dry and clean followed by a light coat of oil.

Although the barrel break in instructions from Savage have no reference to cleaning with a copper remover, I wanted to make sure.

Thanks,

Shawn

 

[Milo 2.0]

I'd say it's normal, either from a rough spot where the reamer stopped. Or from the sharp edges of the rifling, I'm sure the barrel isn't hand lapped. It should go away after a few firings, hence the break-in procedure.
Also, there's a lot better copper solvents out there than Hoppe's #9.

I had a brand new Krieger barrel chambered in 6.5x47, after the one shot fired by the smith, it looked like molten copper was pouring out the muzzle. I was concerned, cleaned it and when I ran pressure checks, 25 rds, no copper came out on the second cleaning.
I'm not sure that wasn't my most accurate gun I've ever owned.

 

[BoilerUP]

Shoot it until it is no longer accurate.

Clean.

Rinse/repeat.

JMHO

 

[stacy]

DON'T FEEL BAD I HAVE A 6.5 X47 LAPUA 1/8 TWIST LILJA THAT DOES IT ALL THE TIME I MEAN ALL THE TIME

 

[jsthntn247]

My rock creek barrel looks just like that after doing break in procedure, cleaning several times. Still doing it after. 150 rounds

 

[BradY]

Leave the hoppes in overnight or for a day or so and the copper will be gone. Otherwise, boretech eliminator or proshot copper solvent will remove it quicker. Just because it has copper there it doesnt mean its a bad thing. It might shoot better with a bit of fouling. I have a krieger 5R that for some reason shows copper too but it shoots very very well.

 

[Gene66]

My Savage 260 LRP has copper fouling at the muzzle. I would not worry about it. It is a Savage barrel. Mine shoots better dirty. I now clean at around 40 rounds. After cleaning, it takes about 15 rounds before groups start to tighten up. I have two hundred rounds down the tube. For cleaning I use Butch's Bore Shine for the copper and Boretex for the carbon. I use a Lucas bore guide. Hopes this helps.
Good shooting,
Gene

 

[sawacs]

Thank you everyone for the advice. I think I will leave it alone and continue with the normal break in process.

Cheers!

Shawn

 

[XTR]

I built a 7-08 with one of Rock Creek's button rifled barrels I got a couple of yrs ago from a group buy from Snipers Hide when they first started their button rifled line. The first time I cleaned it with copper cleaner I could not believe how green/blue the patches were. After that first cleaning it's never had that happened again.

 

[Erik Cortina]

This is the first real precision gun I have owned and wanted to make sure I am breaking the barrel in properly.

I believe your expectations will be a bit high based on that statement. It is a factory barrel and you can not expect it to be as good as a custom match barrel. However, some do shoot well and will get you some useful life until you replace it with a custom barrel if you desire.

I agree with the others, just clean it good and keep shooting it. If it continues to do this, give it a good scrubbing with IOSSO or a similar product and it should minimize copper fouling. If it shoots good and fouls, just keep cleaning and shooting.

 

[dragman]

Me and two of my friends bought these guns two years and they all shot really well, but they all did just what your showing.

 

[Dans40X]

If you bore scoped that Salvage Bbl,it would make you cringe.

Shoot it & have fun!!

 

[fm1947]

I had the same gun, and found that my loads were to hot even though they were below sierra's max data, when I chronied the load it was running 100 FPS faster , so less powder worked better in that gun.

 

[sawacs]

I had a chance to put some more rounds through the LRP with a shoot and clean method. I am no longer worrying about what the inside of the barrel looks like after cleaning but rather how the rifle shoots The current loads I am using for break in are Remington 120 grain accubonds which chrony 2879 avg out of the LRP.

So far I am really enjoying this rifle!

Thanks,

Shawn

 

[sawacs]

This is the first real precision gun I have owned and wanted to make sure I am breaking the barrel in properly.

I believe your expectations will be a bit high based on that statement. It is a factory barrel and you can not expect it to be as good as a custom match barrel. However, some do shoot well and will get you some useful life until you replace it with a custom barrel if you desire.

I agree with the others, just clean it good and keep shooting it. If it continues to do this, give it a good scrubbing with IOSSO or a similar product and it should minimize copper fouling. If it shoots good and fouls, just keep cleaning and shooting.

This might not be a match grade barrel but it sure shoots like one for me. I'm impressed so far! If I ever wear this one out, I will definitely be replacing it with a custom match grade barrel for sure. However, I might end up building a custom savage action gun based on a 260 before that happens.

260 Rem 3 shot @100

Here is another group that amazed the crapola out of me and my father more so than the 260. While at the hunting lease last weekend, I needed to make sure the 1968 Remington 700 243 was sighted in. After getting the scope dialed in, I made a 3 shot group. The picture below is what happened! All the shots were made using the Caldwell lead sled and factory ammo.

Cheers!

Shawn

 

[Erik Cortina]

This might not be a match grade barrel but it sure shoots like one for me. I'm impressed so far! If I ever wear this one out, I will definitely be replacing it with a custom match grade barrel for sure. However, I might end up building a custom savage action gun based on a 260 before that happens.

I'm glad you are having good luck with your barrel, but truth be told, groups would be much better than that with a match barrel. I'm not knocking your groups, I just want to point out the real difference between a match barrel and a factory barrel.

Good shooting!

 

[sawacs]

This might not be a match grade barrel but it sure shoots like one for me. I'm impressed so far! If I ever wear this one out, I will definitely be replacing it with a custom match grade barrel for sure. However, I might end up building a custom savage action gun based on a 260 before that happens.

I'm glad you are having good luck with your barrel, but truth be told, groups would be much better than that with a match barrel. I'm not knocking your groups, I just want to point out the real difference between a match barrel and a factory barrel.

Good shooting!

Thanks and no worries! I am already planning the next build in 260 and 6.8 SPC and can't wait.

Cheers!

Shawn

 

[fdshuster]

Shawn: As others have said, what you are seeing is normal with a lot of barrels, factory and yes, even the custom lapped. All barrels are different, some will copper a lot, some a little and a few not at all. I do prefer Butch's Bore Shine for "regular" cleaning, and it will remove light copper fouling if the bore is soaked and left to sit, muzzle down overnight & in a plastic container, like a cut down pill bottle.

What you see in the morning will be a good indication of how much copper you have in the bore. The ultimate inspection test for copper is a borescope, no guessing.

Pic attached of what you can expect to see in factory barrels.

 

[Erik Cortina]

Sawacs, I have a 6.8, but I wish I had a 6.5 Gendel instead. Just another one to consider I guess.

 

[sawacs]

Sawacs, I have a 6.8, but I wish I had a 6.5 Gendel instead. Just another one to consider I guess.

Erik, I am pretty hooked on the 6.8 and the 260 right now. I cannot really see any reason to go with a 6.5 Grendel over a 260. 260 reloading components are readily available along with brass. Not saying the Grendel is a bad round, but components and ammo appear to be easier to get vs the Grendel. Besides, it very nice having the option of using 243, 308, and 7-08 brass if needed. Now, if there were no such thing as a 260 Remington and I had to choose between the 6.8 or the 6.5 Grendel for long range, I would have to pick the Grendel. Thankfully, that is not case

I would love to have another Savage LRP action and build a 16" barreled bolt gun in 6.8 for a lighter weight hunting tack driver.

Cheers!

Shawn