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1022 misfire

Have a 1022 that shoots really well but jams much to often. It does have a Volquartsen trigger in it, not sure if bolt is original or not and a GM barrel. Seems the first shot or last shot are most apt to not fire. The striker always hits but fails to fire. Same results with different brands of ammo, rifle is very clean also. I did file the striker down on the sides and that seemed to help but still not cured, jams maybe every 20 rounds now. I am running factory mags with the 3 mag adapter. Thinking about tightening up the mag so it sits tight in the magwell next. Any thoughts or suggestions?IMG_0503.JPG
 
Depends on if it's a failure to fire or a jam.
Failure to fire:
First thing I check is the chamber, clean is your friend.
2nd is the headspace on the bolt. How deep is the cut surrounding the cartridge head. Had that issue with a MK II. Any brand that tended to be on the thin side was guaranteed to give me fits. My smith checked the bolt face & found it was cut a few thousanths too deep. Now it's as reliable as it can be.
3rd: I never shoot Remington, unless i want to practice ball & dummy. Their SV ammo shoots well, I just can't count on it going off. May go through 200-300 rounds without a hitch, then the next box won't let me go through a single magazine without duds.

Jam:
Check your extractor. Volquartsen makes an excellent replacement.
 
You mention both jamming and failures to fire.
Which one are you having issues with?

It looks like failures to fire with a pic of your 22lr round that was struck, but didn't go bang.

Make sure your bolt face and chamber are clean.
Does this happen with a particular type of ammo or many types?
 
Thread on rimfirecentral concerning miss fires and ejection failures right now. Seems that most opinions are a dirty chamber being
the cause. Since it's difficult to clean the chamber with out complete disassembly of the gun this maybe true.
If you check on the site you will find that you can "borrow" a jig to drill a hole in the back of the action so you can insert a rod
and brush, with bolt removed, to clean the chamber/barrel from the breech end. I did and it is more convenient to clean.
As far as bad mouthing Ruger products, there a dime a dozen. Makes you wonder how they stay in business and continue to
bring out new and innovative firearms every year that people buy and enjoy!!!
Regards,

Joe McNeill
SW Arkansas
 
Buy, a Volquartsen or Kidd, Firing Pin and Extractor and make sure your Hammer spring, has enough, oompth !
Polish your Chamber's, Rim area and Radius the "Ramp" portion, SLIGHTLY/ CAREFULLY with, 600 grit (oiled ) on a split rod.
Put some 600 grit Wet / Dry, oiled over a small wooden Block to, remove High spots, level out & Polish inside, the Receiver. Polish, top, bottom and sides of Bolt the same way ( Square and smooth ). See YouTube Vid on HOW to, Radius/ Polish, the back of the Bolt for smoother Hammer, cocking ! Then, clean, Lap / Polish, your New Green Mtn Barrel with, JB's to get to, it's real, "Performance", Level ( see Green Mountain Barrel, post ( here on Accurate Shooter ) and read, HOW to, do "this" & break in barrel ). Good Luck ! My 10-22 works, FLAWLESSLY, after doing the above mentioned "work" ! Getting Sub 1/2 inch, 5 shot groups at, 50 yds with, SK + and Wolf, Match Extra, now ! PS; throw away, all Magazines, EXCEPT the Original, 10 shot Ruger, Rotary Mag's, unless, you LIKE,.. FTF's !
 
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Buy, a Volquartsen or Kidd, Firing Pin and Extractor and make sure your Hammer spring, has enough, oompth !
Polish your Chamber's, Rim area and Radius the "Ramp" portion, SLIGHTLY/ CAREFULLY with, 600 grit (oiled ) on a split rod.
Put some 600 grit Wet / Dry, oiled over a small wooden Block to, remove High spots, level out & Polish inside, the Receiver. Polish, top, bottom and sides of Bolt the same way ( Square and smooth ). See YouTube Vid on HOW to, Radius/ Polish, the back of the Bolt for smoother Hammer, cocking ! Then, clean, Lap / Polish, your New Green Mtn Barrel with, JB's to get to, it's real, "Performance", Level ( see Green Mountain Barrel, post ( here on Accurate Shooter ) and read, HOW to, do "this" & break in barrel ). Good Luck ! My 10-22 works, FLAWLESSLY, after doing the above mentioned "work" ! Getting Sub 1/2 inch, 5 shot groups at, 50 yds with, SK + and Wolf, Match Extra, now ! PS; throw away, all Magazines, EXCEPT the Original, 10 shot Ruger, Rotary Mag's, unless, you LIKE,.. FTF's !

You may consider purchasing an aftermarket bolt from one of the reputable sources. Or, you could send your bolt to CPC for a tune-up. It will come back with rear underside of the bolt properly radiuses and the firing pin shaped and pinned. The skewed fp strike on the case suggests to me that your to has too much movement in it's slot on the bolt. Just some suggestions. For whatever they might be worth. Nothing more fun to shoot than a smooth functioning 10/22. Good luck.
 
Agree with, Rem 72043722, above,.. Your Rifle HAS some serious, Bolt "misalignment" going on ! Never seen that, before ! Might want to have, a good Gun Smith, check that, out ! Most, Ruger 10-22 Bolts, "move" a bit, upon impact of, the Hammer and "twist" / shift, the Bolt,.. a "tad". The Firing Pin, is located at, Top dead Center in the Bolt and shouldn't be, "offset" that, much, tho ! Good luck and let us know what you find out !
 
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Since no one has mentioned it, I would suggest you try removing the striker and with some 320 wet or dry sandpaper and a flat surface sand the sides until it is flat and has no burrs. The "misalignment" or skewed way it hits the rim may be nothing more than the way you filed it and should not keep it from firing. So the indent is at a slight angle, that will not prevent it from firing as long as it still dents the rim. I really seriously doubt Ruger machined the striker slot in the bolt that far off.
Next I would try a stronger hammer spring. One other thing to look at with the 10/22, especially if it has been dry fired a lot {and most 10/22's get dry fired at least once every mag full on the last shot} is a dent from the striker hitting the breech. It will peen some metal into the chamber and cause a tight spot and subsequent jam. Brownell's makes a tool to "iron out" a striker dent at the breech, but I have been successful with a needle file. Be careful "polishing" the chamber with sandpaper and a drill...you could get up at the throat and cause more damage than you fix. Best of luck sir.
 

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