10/22 upgrades..????

[Rsadams]

What's the best upgrade you guys have done on your Ruger 10/22 without going all out rebuild.... I have just inherited a 1994 model with the cast trigger group etc... The trigger is good but heavy , it shoots as it should out of the box... It also has not been shot very much , maybe 300 rounds because I put 150 of those down it checking function and zeroing the scope in.. I am sure it will eventually either stay as a toy or get the all out treatment stock , barrel etc... I just have so much stuff going it will be a long while before that happens....

 

[Jdne5b]

I think a trigger is one of the best you can do. That being said, I havent done it yet. I want a Kidd, but cant get that much money prioritized for it yet.

 

[Tommie]

Since your gun doesn’t have the El Cheapo plastic trigger housing, I was going to suggest a Kidd trigger job kit.

http://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-Tri...r-Sear-Disconnect-and-Trigger-blade_p_95.html

... but I only see the craptastic plastic housing mentioned. You might call and find out if the kit is compatible with the metal housing. If not, just bite the bullet and buy a whole trigger assembly. They are awesome.

 

[Outrider27]

Seriously consider sending your trigger group to Brimstone Gunsmithing. His basic Tier 3 job is fine (best $40 or so you ever spent), or you can go with Tier 2 or 1. About the best bargain out there in 10/22 triggers.

https://www.brimstonegunsmithing.com/collections/ruger-10-22

 

[kvd]

I have installed the Kidd trigger job kit in a 90's vintage 10/22 with the cast metal trigger housing with no issues. A worthwhile upgrade that will greatly reduce the effort required to pull the trigger. While you're in the trigger group, might as well install the Kidd pullback bolt release and extended magazine release parts at the same time. Both useful additions. Kidd's website has a wide variety of relatively inexpensive parts that increase the accuracy and improve the functionality of a Ruger 10/22.

You may also consider sending your barreled action to Connecticut Precision Chambering in Middletown, CT. They offer several differ rechambering and recrowning packages that will really enhance the accuracy of a stock 10/22 for a fair price. Their webstie is at: http://www.ct-precision.com/

You didn't mention if you already have a scope on your 10/22 but that is definitely something to consider. Get the $20 picatinny scope mount from Ruger. It will allow you to use many different ring styles from a large group of manufacturers.

 

[Rsadams]

Hey , thanks everyone , I agree something needs to be done to the trigger it's not bad but just a high pull weight... Also the bolt release is a pain , your correct and I don't even have the stock mag release with the little leaver it's the old stock push in button that also makes it hard to get the mag out with one hand so those two things would be great easy cheap upgrades for function.. it shot well at 50 yards , grouping fairly well especially just for a hunting rifle if that's what you were going to use it for..

The trigger on my Ruger American Rimfire bolt action is of course adjustable but a bit gritty were the 10/22 is not it's just heavy. I was really suprised by how smooth and grit free it was... I think one day it will get a nice Boyd's stock and bull barrel.. Working on it is alot easier than I thought... I just hate cleaning it from the crown and am thinking of ordering the Dewey's muzzle guide for it or maybe just use a bore snake... I miss the days when we didn't care but now it kills me to run a rod from the crown... I guess honestly I could just pull the barrel from the receiver , it's easy enough...

Like I said and like so many of us I have so many irons in the fire with other projects I have been trying not to get sucked in to all the cool upgrades right now... But I keep finding myself on the Kidd and other websites looking at stuff...

Thanks as always for your help...

 

[kvd]

I just hate cleaning it from the crown...

One of the items that Connecticut Precision Chambering (CPC) includes in their tune up package is to drill a hole in the back of the receiver aligned with the barrel so a standard 22 caliber cleaning rod can be used from the breech end of the barrel. You could probably accomplish this yourself with a drill press, a decent drill bit, and a little patience.

 

[Nowhere Man]

Give the Valquartsen trigger kit with the auto bolt release a look see.

 

[JRS]

Send it to Clark Custom Guns for a tuneup.

 

[Rsadams]

One of the items that Connecticut Precision Chambering (CPC) includes in their tune up package is to drill a hole in the back of the receiver aligned with the barrel so a standard 22 caliber cleaning rod can be used from the breech end of the barrel. You could probably accomplish this yourself with a drill press, a decent drill bit, and a little patience.

I have seen this , it sucks you have to go that far , but there's alot of rifles that must be cleaned backwards....

 

[jepp2]

You might call and find out if the kit is compatible with the metal housing.

Straight from the Kidd website:
Q: Your description states your "trigger job" Kit works with the polymer trigger housing. Does it also work with the older aluminum trigger system? Asked by: Mike - 12/24/2015 A: Thank you for your interest in this product. Our trigger job kit works best with the polymer housings. We recommend the polymer over the metal housing because at times it doesn't function in the metal ones. Due to the precision of the trigger job kit, the hole size and placement is very critical and the polymer housing is more consistent with these dimensions. Good shooting! KIDD Was this answer helpful?

I also had one of the old metal housing units in mine. I picked up a polymer unit and installed the Kidd kit in it. You wouldn't believe the difference.

 

[gtl1946]

I did two mods. that I felt helped. One was the Kidd trigger that is second to none and on Rimfire Central a person who’s forum name,I think, was Que works on your boltface changing the headspace to the proper dimension. Yes it did help. Being inquisitive I’ve always wanted to try the Federson barrel but never got around to it. They are rated very well.

 

[jpx2rk]

I built one 10/22 with a Feddersen barrel and is very accurate at 50yds with el cheapo Aguila ammo. Range buddy built one first and he cut a playing card in half at 50yds with his. I did the same (cut another card) with his, so I copied his build, but have not tried cutting a playing card with mine yet. I have another Feddersen barrel here at the house waiting on a receiver to be purchased to complete the build. Wife liked the first one so much she claimed it, so.... I'm building another one. LOL

 

[Bangs OH]

I recently inherited a Charger. First thing I did was install Ruger's BX trigger kit that brings pull weight down to around 2 lbs., with little creep. Often on sale somewhere, just today saw one locally for 49 bucks; easy to install yourself and a big improvement.
Now I'm looking at barrels.

 

[Sniper338]

Once you start playing with it all you will end up building a KIDD. I DID AND ITS AWESOME.

For a regular 10-22... a barrel and a trigger job. You can tinker a trigger yourself and drop the weight a lot if your handy with this kinda stuff, done that too..

 

[Rsadams]

I built one 10/22 with a Feddersen barrel and is very accurate at 50yds with el cheapo Aguila ammo. Range buddy built one first and he cut a playing card in half at 50yds with his. I did the same (cut another card) with his, so I copied his build, but have not tried cutting a playing card with mine yet. I have another Feddersen barrel here at the house waiting on a receiver to be purchased to complete the build. Wife liked the first one so much she claimed it, so.... I'm building another one. LOL

I have the card I cut in half with a box stock Ruger American Rimfire at 50 laying somewhere around here... Their bolt guns are one hell of a deal for the price... Playing with the bolt to stock tension or torque can really help them shoot well.. put about 500 rounds down it with regular cleaning seems to help the barrel alot... As with any new gun be sure and look them over well before buying...

 

[SSL]

For a regular 10-22... a barrel and a trigger job. You can tinker a trigger yourself and drop the weight a lot if your handy with this kinda stuff, done that too..

Very true. You can spend a lot of money replacing pretty much everything if you want a competition gun. Since you sound like you want just a good, accurate and fun shooter, there is a lot you can do yourself and have fun doing it.
Assuming you are going to work with a your original parts, this is what I would do:
1. If your model has the barrel band, remove it and throw it as far as possible. That little rascal may look cute but it is almost always putting torque on the barrel. The barrel doesn't need to be held down by anything but the action bolt. A little energetic rasp work can blend the stock into a nice taper eliminating the step left from the band inletting.
2. Float the barrel.
3. Bed the bearing surfaces (including the recoil/barrel block) of the reciever.
4. Lap the bore with J.B. paste.
5. Install a trigger assembly washer kit to eliminate slack and slop.
6. Carefully stone and polish all trigger bearing surfaces, being sure to maintain angles.
7. While trigger assembly is apart, carefully eliminate the bolt lock point in the pin slot of the bolt lock plate to allow releasing the bolt by retracting and releasing it.
8. Drill and tap the magazine release for anything you want to use to make release easier. I sometimes just use a front sling swivel stud. Cheap, unobtrusive and easy to hit.
9. If using the standard scope mount rail from Ruger meant for 3/8" claw mounts, remove it, turn your back to a deep ditch and throw it over your shoulder without looking back. Now replace it with a Weaver TO-9 mount meant for real scopes. Do not over-tighten the screws and be sure to use LocTite.

For pictures and tips Google Gil Sengel's article on 10/22 improvements from several years ago.

By now you probably have less than $30 invested in a rifle that is fun. Accuracy with the right ammo should be well within anything but match criteria.

 

[Outrider27]

While SSL's list is excellent, be advised that 10/22s can be temperamental little beasts, so do whatever you want from the list, but do not free float it before shooting it, and if you do free float it to try for more accuracy after doing other mods, be prepared to add a pressure point back in if accuracy drops off after free floating. Unlike most bolt guns, some 10/22s like to be free floated, some don't; it's a crap shoot whether an individual 10/22 will improve or digress when free floated.

 

[Wiley Coyote]

All good advice and suggestions. Yes these little rifles CAN be temperamental and may or may not respond favorably. First off, I'd suggest holding off on swapping the barrel. at some point after about 500 rounds many OEM barrels "settle in" and will surprise you with their accuracy. The following is basically what I've done to five of them and in the order I've done it in. All five of these rifles function flawlessly and are capable of better accuracy than I am.

1. Install a Tuffer Buffer or some other Non-Metal Bolt Stop Pin
2. Install a Kidd Single Stage Trigger on "walk about" guns and the Two-Stage Trigger in the "bench guns"
3.. Do a Kidd Bolt with their Guide Rod and Springs.
4. Barrel change out. I've opted for Green Mountain Sporters for Squirrel Hunting, and one GM 0.920 heavy and one Kidd 0.920 on my two "bench guns".

I have no experience with either Brimstone or CPC, but do know they both enjoy great reputations for turning out quality work.

You can tie up a tidy sum going down this road and I'm not suggesting it. Only saying how I've done what I've done. And if I get another 10/22 I'll probably do it again. 10/22s can be an addictive hobby.

 

[SSL]

Outrider is correct about barrel floating. Some barrels do need a bit of support. I would still remove the barrel band since it causes unnecessary stress or flexing in most cases. Remember that the reciever is aluminum and can't support weight or torque as well as steel. This is particularly important to consider if replacing the original barrel with a heavier or "bull" barrel. Sometimes just bedding the barrel for the first inch or so is enough to assist the reciever in supporting the barrel. Some may well need a point at the tip of the forearm exerting a little vertical pressure. You can try various amounts and locations easily by inserting various thicknesses of old business cards between barrel and stock to determine what works best.
Have fun and enjoy!