What is everyone’s thoughts on threading the muzzle of a 270 to 1/2x28 for a suppressor? Have read where some have done it but it is getting kinda thin. I would rather do 5/8 but the barrel measures .610 at the muzzle so 1/2 as big as I can go.
1/2x28 on 270
- Thread starter EasyShooter
- Start date
I have seen where that has been done but what bothers me there is there isn’t much of a shoulder for the bushing to seat against. I would think that would be the same thing as just putting the suppressor on a barrel with not much shoulder or possibly worse if alignment of the bushing was off a little.
I prefer a good standard shoulder but the bushing could be made to shoulder on the muzzle, the the suppressor shoulder normally on the bushing. Yes, getting everything dead nutz square to the bore axis is critical and two parts instead of one compounds that a bit.
CCM
Gold $$ Contributor
Work just fine. I've seen some that blended nicely but they end up pretty long.I'd thread the outside of the barrel at max dimension... make a collar with a snug fit. Rocksett that on there. Then turn the final threads.. and have a shoulder... and TRY to blend that in
Pretty? No. Works? Probably
Never thought about shouldering off the muzzle. That would work fine I guess.
It’s actually a well known method used for a lot of years.
If you shorten the barrel by the length of the suppressor to keep the same overall rifle length, will you have enough meat for the 5/8 thread. I have found suppresors on long skinny barrels ungainly with a large zero shift with the suppressor compared to without. A suppressor big enough for a 270 will be pretty big.
Not always the case as with my Remington. You'd have to go below 16" (legal length) to get to a major diameter change to utilize a 5/8 thread, then you have to consider the rating for the can. Mine is rated at a minimum of 18" barrel length for magnums, so another thing to consider.
Dan
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
find a pin gauge that fits your muzzle. Take all that material off for the thread, and on a factory barrel I bet you can fit a pin gauge that’s the next thou up in size in there.
That’s why I made my first suggestion. The bore will open up. Less so on the good custom barrels that do extra steps to relieve stress… but it can still happen. Steel moves.
That’s why I made my first suggestion. The bore will open up. Less so on the good custom barrels that do extra steps to relieve stress… but it can still happen. Steel moves.
Very well known phenomenon but how much does it affect accuracy? My factory gun shoots as well or better now after being threaded 1/2x28. I believe you need to be at or bigger than 3/4" before this is no longer an issue (if my memory serves me from the reading i've done on this) so 5/8" OD was still no benefit over 1/2".
Dan
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
I've done them too, without issue on 30 cals. Muzzle pressures play a role here. I might do it on a fairly long 30-06 but not on a shorter 300RUM, for example. I had a gun come in several years ago with a "bubba" brake on a 338 RUM. It was 1/2-28 and it very clearly bulged under the threads on that. I cut it off and went with a larger thread, I don't remember what, but problem solved. It shot all over the place before fixing it. You could easily see and feel the bulged bore.
Thats a pretty small shoulder for a can I would not go less than .100 myself. .050 is even on the small side for a larger brake.
1/2×28 on your.610 muzzle will work fine.it does help if the suppressor sleeves down the barrel with a rear bushing.it just gives that little bit of support,especially if it's been used for stalking-hunting or a tyre lever.i have had a few stalking rifles in with forward mounted suppressors with a hole in the side where it's taken a knock and gone unnoticed..these stalkers can be abit brutal with their rifles..they keep me busy.i have used the muzzle as the shoulder on quite a few occasions with no problem's at all.
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