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Brass prep

I do only on one of my Wildcat cases
Because when I form the body down, it's pretty thick where I form the new neck
so reaming the inside starts me off with a good smooth round surface for the inside pilot to go
then I size down after inside reaming
and then turn the outside
it also helps ensure there is no inside donut when I form the neck with the thicker area of the brass
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otherwise No, i only turn the outside on everything else
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many cases may not have enough meat to inside ream
and also turn the outside
the problem being, you may not be able to size the neck down enough to hold a bullet if you inside ream
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if you inside ream, you have to expand the neck so you dont take away too much neck thickness
 
Does anyone ream the neck ID to be sure its round ?
Only if I have donuts, and only if the bulled is seated past it. Then I ream just the donut. I had Forster cut me a reamer to my specs (0.0005" under the last gauge pin that fit above the donut). Otherwise, I think reamers are a bit too rough in this application, and like the rest, I skim the outside to get consistent wall thickness.
 
I used to inside ream the necks on the .165 shortened 308W Lapua brass I used in my HBR rifles.

It made the necks perfectly round, straightened out the taper on the inside (funnel shaped) and eliminated the ridge at the original neck/shoulder area that you could feel when seating a bullet. Elzie Scott at L.E.Wilson made neck reamers from .3060 to .3090. After the insides were done, the cases were outside turned.

The process worked very well and the accuracy picked up significantly over cases that had not had the inners done like this.

I've done some 30BR cases this way, too. Works fine with those as long as you don't get too greedy with the diameter of the cutter...just a touch up.

I use it on the 30BR cases to touch up any donuts that start to form. It's a great way to address the donuts on any case...provided you have the right reamer dimension. You can also make a bushing and use a simple chucking reamer. Tony Boyer shows this method in his excellent book.

Good shootin' :) -Al
 
I built a 6x47 Lapua .100 short before the 6 GT was on the scene.

Kiff talked me into using zero free bore and full length (.400+) neck. He said, 'All your freebore is in the neck'. That sounded good in theory.

The donut was the problem. I tried cutting it out with a K&M cutting/turning mandrel. That got most of it out. After fire forming I raised the bushing in FL die to above the donut but still felt it when seating.

Solved the rest of the problem by increasing neck clearance from .001 to .002 per side and kept the bushing raised above the donut area. After fire forming no more felt donut.
 

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