Chamber flush system build log.

[Walt Krafft]

My coolant system looks like that. Cut some of the chamber and it will shorten up. I use a cut off diet dew bottle as a splash shield.

 

[Sniperhandle]

Hmmm... do they make 3 phase motors that size? I'm sure they do...

I already have some military dc motor/oil pump setups that I have tested with a DC motor control. I also have some small 3 phase motors.

fractional hp 3 phase motors

Google Search

 

[Jud96]

Update. The ball valve works, but it’s very sensitive given that it’s a 1/4 turn valve. I shortened the spring in the relief valve and that worked. The relief valve is kinda overkill since you’re using it for throttling and not for an actual pressure relief, a globe or gate valve will do what you need and be 1/3 of the price. I should have thought it through more when I was gathering parts, but I’m not much of a plumber lol.

I’ll add some pictures of my setup after I button up a few things.

 

[Jud96]

Here’s my setup as of now. After the pressure gauge it goes to the barrel. I haven’t added any filters yet, just relying on the screen in the chip pan. If/when I add a filter it will be on the barrel side.

The return line off the relief runs straight to the reservoir, it is 3/8” ID because that’s what I had left over and I ran out of 1/2”. I will be upgrading to 1/2” line though. I previously had a short piece of 1/2” just dumping into the pan’s drain but the drain was getting backed up faster than it could return to the reservoir. One thing I’ll note, with the 1/2” return the gauge read 0 psi with the relief wide open, with the 3/8” line the same setting yielded 20PSI, so my thought is the return isn’t keeping up with the main line.

The current spring is a little weak, I’m debating on ordering a new spring and taking less coils off, or just getting a globe valve. The only advantage I see to the relief valve is if pressure rises when chambering the relief would dump more oil to maintain the set pressure? I haven’t chambered with this new pump yet so I’m learning as I go and I’m also not a fluid dynamics guy either lol.

For a switch I just installed a toggle switch that matches the On/Off on my lathe’s control. I think it’s a clean look and it’s easy to reach and I’m able to flip on then off quickly if I need to “burp” the pump when I first kick it on.

Also, none of my plumbing matches because I used some stuff I had on hand and bought some stuff as I needed it.

 

[LVLAaron]

so my thought is the return isn’t keeping up with the main line.

I have the same problem. I can empty the tank. Might happen twice on a chamber. Good time for me to clean something up or wash my hands. I need to do some modification to my chip pan and get a 3/4 drain line going.


Good setup overall. I'd definitely add a filter. Mine is also "after the pump" - I don't have any filter on the drain side, and I know my tank is full of sludge. I told myself before I start the lathe in the new shop that I'd cut the filter open and look at it, as well as flush the tank and see what's in there - I've done about 100 barrels with it, so a good milestone to inspect.

 

[Judd]

I was going to put my filter between the tank and the pump in hopes of keeping metal out of my pump…isn’t that the purpose?

I’ve got everything except the tubing and cart but it’s getting close to fan time. I need a break in those “I need this fairly quick jobs”

 

[Jud96]

I was going to put my filter between the tank and the pump in hopes of keeping metal out of my pump…isn’t that the purpose?

I’ve got everything except the tubing and cart but it’s getting close to fan time. I need a break in those “I need this fairly quick jobs”

I think it’s 6 of one or half dozen of the other situation. If it’s before the barrel and after the pump you don’t run the risk of blasting debris into the barrel and reamer under pressure. If it’s before the pump you won’t get any junk to the pump, but if the pump ever blew up then there’s no filter to the barrel. I don’t think it matters too much. I think I’ll add something, but I plan to catch the bulk of it with the screen on the drain.

 

[tobnpr]

So I'm curious about whether these carbonator pumps hold up long term, pumping oil / oil-based lubricants.

When i built my flush system, I stayed away from carbonator pumps because my research told me they are not compatible with oil. I chose to go with a utility pump with a buna rubber impeller designed to pump oil. Many plastics/rubber compounds will fail over time when used with petroleum-based liquids.

Not the case?

 

[xr650rRider]

So I'm curious about whether these carbonator pumps hold up long term, pumping oil / oil-based lubricants.

When i built my flush system, I stayed away from carbonator pumps because my research told me they are not compatible with oil. I chose to go with a utility pump with a buna rubber impeller designed to pump oil. Many plastics/rubber compounds will fail over time when used with petroleum-based liquids.

Not the case?

Working fine for 7+ years with Ridgid Nu-clear thread cutting oil with a couple quarts of ATF type F.

 

[BuffaloBill]

So I'm curious about whether these carbonator pumps hold up long term, pumping oil / oil-based lubricants.

When i built my flush system, I stayed away from carbonator pumps because my research told me they are not compatible with oil. I chose to go with a utility pump with a buna rubber impeller designed to pump oil. Many plastics/rubber compounds will fail over time when used with petroleum-based liquids.

Not the case?

I bought my carbonatior used. It’s been a few years but when I took the front plate off to check it out I thought I saw metal gears. I’ve used mine for about 5 years without any trouble. I’m running 4.5 gal Ridgid Extreme cutting oil that I just recently thinned with 1 gal transmission fluid.

 

[WSnyder]

I thought I saw metal gears

A Procon carbonator pump is an eccentric chamber vane pump not a gear pump. Maybe you have a different pump?

 

[BuffaloBill]

A Procon carbonator pump is an eccentric chamber vane pump not a gear pump. Maybe you have a different pump?
View attachment 1758369

I should take it apart again to confirm what I have. I have worked with some gear pumps and I might not be remembering what’s inside this one. The housing shape implies a gear pump design. Below are a couple pics of it. I’ve since replaced that plastic water filter with an aluminum screw-on type oil filter base.

Edit to add: The motor is labeled Carbonator. But perhaps the pump attached to it is actually a Dayton gear pump?

 

[WSnyder]

But perhaps the pump attached to it is actually a Dayton gear pump?

Likely or some other brand. Yours does look like a gear pump.

 

[BuffaloBill]

Likely or some other brand. Yours does look like a gear pump.

The ebay add had called it a Carbonator and I hadn’t researched to discover that’s not what it is. Thanks for enlightening me on Carbonator being a vane pump. This one seems to be well suited for this application, thankfully.

I believe using an adjustable relief valve is well worth the added cost. It’s all just personal preference, but I also like having built the system as a self-contained portable unit. Not having extra plumbing attached to the lathe itself.

 

[DaveTooley]

I have the same problem. I can empty the tank. Might happen twice on a chamber. Good time for me to clean something up or wash my hands. I need to do some modification to my chip pan and get a 3/4 drain line going.


Good setup overall. I'd definitely add a filter. Mine is also "after the pump" - I don't have any filter on the drain side, and I know my tank is full of sludge. I told myself before I start the lathe in the new shop that I'd cut the filter open and look at it, as well as flush the tank and see what's in there - I've done about 100 barrels with it, so a good milestone to inspect.

You can clean up most of what settles out in the tank with a magnet.

 

[LVLAaron]

You can clean up most of what settles out in the tank with a magnet.

I have a big rare earth magnet on the bottom.

 

[Hal]

On hydraulics systems the filter goes between the return line and the tank.
On high pressure hydraulic systems if the filter is between the pump and the tank . the pump could collapse the filter trying to pull a large amount of fluid through the filter.
As the filter gets dirty the flow would get worse. Once the filter is plugged the pump cavitates and ruins the pump quickly.

Hal

 

[DaveTooley]

I have a big rare earth magnet on the bottom.

I just sweep the bottom with a magnet and get probably 90% out.