Good advice.
Especially with tanks that don't run constantly, bacteria LOVE a good oil film on coolant.
A circulation pump or an aquarium bubbler is excellent insurance against rotten coolant.
Chamber flush system build log.
- Thread starter LVLAaron
- Start date
Especially with tanks that don't run constantly, bacteria LOVE a good oil film on coolant.
A circulation pump or an aquarium bubbler is excellent insurance against rotten coolant.
Jud96
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I recently threw together a muzzle flush system on my Prototrak lathe. I added a T fitting off the factory coolant hardline with two valves. One valve leads to the flexible coolant hose and the other to a 3/8” hose with a rotary air fitting. I can simply open and close what line I want oil to come form. I’m using Master Fluid Solutions Trim OM287 cutting oil and pumping it with the factory coolant pump and it’s thin enough by itself to flow well and flush chips. The OM287 is lower viscosity than some of the other cutting oils, but it’s still designed for reaming and drilling. I may upgrade to a 1/4 HP pump to increase flow and pressure, but I’m happy with it for now.
I decided to go with straight oil vs coolant for a couple reasons. I didn’t want the rust or the possible bacteria from coolant. I also know coolant destroys paint on machines. Final reason is a straight oil will lubricate better and potentially leave a better finish and lead to longer tool life. Other than smoking when turning and being thicker, I see no other disadvantages. It also lubricates your machine while you’re at it
I decided to go with straight oil vs coolant for a couple reasons. I didn’t want the rust or the possible bacteria from coolant. I also know coolant destroys paint on machines. Final reason is a straight oil will lubricate better and potentially leave a better finish and lead to longer tool life. Other than smoking when turning and being thicker, I see no other disadvantages. It also lubricates your machine while you’re at it
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LVLAaron
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Anything scary in the SDS? Any odor?
Oh dang! Thanks for the insight. I don't need any health issues. I'm already old
Jud96
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I didn’t really look to hard, but nothing jumped out at me. It smells a little bit, but not as bad as Tap Magic or Rapid Tap.
SDS linked below
Jud96
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Well I ordered a carbonator pump. It’s a Procon pump rated for 250GPH and 99PSI coupled to a 1/2HP motor. The factory 1/8HP coolant pump wasn’t flushing chips like I wanted so I decided to build a high pressure system. I’m going to utilize the built in lathe sump and keep my low pressure pump for turning and threading operations.
Walt Krafft
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Was your reamer modified for through barrel coolant?
Jud96
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GT Accuracy
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@LVLAaron and others. This is such a great posting for guys trying to get started in a flush. Does anyone have a consolidated list of parts used for their builds with part numbers throughout? Might help others trying to find compatible units online and not know what they are looking for. I know Aaron had something on the first post but I think he changed a few things...If I missed something - apologies.
I had the fun time of outfitting JIS > JIC > NPT for a Doosan and if anyone needs a part list - I can help
I had the fun time of outfitting JIS > JIC > NPT for a Doosan and if anyone needs a part list - I can help
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
There are so many routes you can take. I placed probably 30 orders for different parts and fittings. I'm about to get mine in place in the new shop. I'm going to give it a good wipe down and I'll take a good picture of it and explain what's going on.
GT Accuracy
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Aaron - good idea. Maybe you could make a amazon cart list and get commission from your time
Jud96
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Quick update. I got my new pump all wired up and plumbed in. Problem now is, I have too much pressure! I bought an Apollo adjustable relief valve and with it wide open it’s still building 45 PSI. The oil shoots dang near to the tailstock. I’m going to see if I can get a weaker spring for the relief valve. I really don’t want to restrict the pump with a globe or ball valve, I’d prefer it to run as designed and dump excess off.
Here’s a crappy pic I clipped from a short video I took. You can see how far the oil shoots! Before it just barely ran out the end. Also, ignore the plumbing, I have to mount it in place permanently with some strap clamps.
Here’s a crappy pic I clipped from a short video I took. You can see how far the oil shoots! Before it just barely ran out the end. Also, ignore the plumbing, I have to mount it in place permanently with some strap clamps.
Jud96
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Yes it’s plumbed correctly, I just think the spring in it is too strong. I did a little digging and it seems it’s designed to be 50-250PSI adjustable.
However, I have a simple solution. I’m going to replace the relief valve with a ball valve. The valve will be on the “T” still so the flow won’t be hitting the valve at full steam like it would if it was plumbed in line. By doing this I’ll be able to adjust pressure with opening and closing the valve, but the pump will still flow 100% if that makes sense. If the ball valve was right in line then there would be no where for the excess to bleed off and it can put strain on the pump. Should work in theory. I’ll report back this evening!
However, I have a simple solution. I’m going to replace the relief valve with a ball valve. The valve will be on the “T” still so the flow won’t be hitting the valve at full steam like it would if it was plumbed in line. By doing this I’ll be able to adjust pressure with opening and closing the valve, but the pump will still flow 100% if that makes sense. If the ball valve was right in line then there would be no where for the excess to bleed off and it can put strain on the pump. Should work in theory. I’ll report back this evening!
can you cut down the spring in the relief valve?
LVLAaron
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That's how I ended up building mine, because I couldn't get the relief valve during the covid-era shortages. So I have a ball valve that just diverts some back to the tank and the pressure relief valve. I've got it tuned where I only need to adjust the relief valve a little bit depending on the caliber barrel I'm working on.
Jud96
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I’m going to try that too
If/When I do mine, It will use a 3 phase motor with a vfd or a dc motor and control to vary the speed of the pump.
LVLAaron
Gold $$ Contributor
Hmmm... do they make 3 phase motors that size? I'm sure they do...
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