User error accuracy one seating depth gauge

[Sigfla]

Simply posting in case anyone else has the same issue I just had. I found that by replacing the tip of my seating depth gauge to one that more closely fits the inner tube of the comparator body I get better more consistent readings. HOWEVER that assumes the tip of the indicator is screwed on tight. I found that through repeated use I was occasionally unscrewing the tip inside the comparator body. It drove me nearly crazy tonight loading .243 when the rounds started out perfect compared to my setup round then progressively started climbing on the gauge. I finally figured out that by turning the rounds counterclockwise I was unscrewing the indicator tip. My odd habit was to insert the round then twist a few turns

 

[Raydee]

Good to know

 

[Sigfla]

Another tip I figured out. If you are using the larger indicator tips (I used these SUXING Flat Contact Points 3/8"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PYLGM4D?tag=accuratescom-20 AND these SUXING Spherical Point Contact... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PYJR43H?tag=accuratescom-20) you may need to lightly polish the internal channel of the comparator. Both of mine had light machining marks inside of them and the tighter fit of these tips caused the indicator to stick when locked in by the thumb screw. I fixed one by simply putting some tape on the indicator shaft where it entered the body. The other one will need some Flitz to smooth things out.

 

[JFrank]

If you’re speaking of this inner point ?
My A-1 comparator contacts below the meplat at approx the .011 datum.

 

[Sigfla]

If you’re speaking of this inner point ?
My A-1 comparator contacts below the meplat at approx the .011 datum.

No I am talking about the comparator tube that the internal contact piece slides inside. I use the 2 dial tips above on my indicator arms as the larger “tip” doesn’t allow for as much sideways movement within the comparator body giving a more steady reading. The problem is with the tighter fit in the body if you screw down the indicator lock nut too tight it will cause the indicator arm to stick after you compress it with the round. I prefer the steadier reading I get from the larger tips (the larger flat contact point may help as well). So if I continue to use them I need to make sure my comparator body is smooth enough inside that the indicator arm no longer gets stuck and everything moves smoothly.

 

[6BRA]

He is redesigning the contact point that rides on top of the sleeve inside the comparator. He felt there was too much slop. If I understand correctly.

 

[Sigfla]

He is redesigning the contact point that rides on top of the sleeve inside the comparator. He felt there was too much slop. If I understand correctly.

Yes the tips just screw in and there are many types. I prefer the tighter tolerance of the ones I linked. I just Flitz polished my number 1 comparator slightly and gave it a good cleaning. There was plenty of gunk in mine. The larger dial tip and slightly polished inner comparator body now moves very smoothly when I tighten the lock screw down and is just as accurate. Before if I spun the round it would fluctuate. Now it holds the reading steady.

 

[JFrank]

No I am talking about the comparator tube that the internal contact piece slides inside. I use the 2 dial tips above on my indicator arms as the larger “tip” doesn’t allow for as much sideways movement within the comparator body giving a more steady reading. The problem is with the tighter fit in the body if you screw down the indicator lock nut too tight it will cause the indicator arm to stick after you compress it with the round. I prefer the steadier reading I get from the larger tips (the larger flat contact point may help as well). So if I continue to use them I need to make sure my comparator body is smooth enough inside that the indicator arm no longer gets stuck and everything moves smoothly.

Thank you for the clarification , I’ll look into that a bit later.

 

[Sigfla]

Thank you for the clarification , I’ll look into that a bit later.

If you do anything make sure you clean that thing very well. I used brake cleaner when I was done to get all the gunk out. My tolerance fit between my comparator tube and the larger dial tips is now very tight. I am using a more sensitive dial so I had a lot of variation in my readings that I didn’t like. The internals of the comparator need to be very clean. I still have machining marks inside my tube bc I didn’t go crazy with the Flitz but I don’t get any stickiness anymore. Alternately I suppose you could polish down the dial tip a bit as well. IMHO I feel the flatter/larger contact point of the new tips helps the most to steady the reading. The tiny point the dial comes with just allows too much play in the contact sleeve.