RELOADING .380 ACP

[Lesloan]

I've been reloading for more years than I care to remember, mostly rifle and a trainload of .38/.357, but never .380 ACP. Now I find myself needing to get started on that caliber and have a few questions.

First relates to bullet diameter. I'd like to load cast bullets 'cuz they're cheap. Jacketed bullets are .355", and the standard for cast bullets (not just .380) is to add .001" to the jacketed bullet die., which would, of course, be .356". I see that Berry's .380 plated bullets are indeed .356" but haven't checked plain lead bullet dias.. I seem to recall reading, however, that .356" bullets cause case bulges, even to the point of making the case oversized. True?

Second, crimp. At least some dies reportedly use a roll crimp. Since the .380 case seats on the case mouth, is this a good idea, or should I buy dies with a "factory" crimp, (e.g., Lee Precision), or maybe even a taper crimp, if they even exist. For that matter, do the cases even need a crimp with either lead or jacketed bullets?

Third, sizing die. The Hornady dies I'm leaning to are TiN, others carbide. Any preference? If so, why? I've used a lot of carbide dies but not TiN.

I don't expect to load a bunch of these, so will just stick with my old C press for the time being. Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[jds holler]

These little devils are so cheap and work so good that I've not even bothered with casting my own. (and I AM a caster) They've got a nice hard lube coating on them that isn't messy and works great.

My dies are Lee, which seems to crimp gently but secure, and I've never bothered to use the Lee Factory crimp die which is included in the kit. My powder is HP38. jd

https://www.bearcreeksupplybullets.com/380acp

 

[cdgaydos]

1. 0.356” is a good starting point (some will say slug your bore).

2. Taper crimp to remove the flare.

3. Hornady TiN dies are good.

For cast, absolutely consider the Lyman M-die or Lee Universal Expanding die with a custom plug.

 

[jepp2]

380 aren't much different to load than 9mm. I like 357 Sig to introduce more challenge.

 

[SteveOak]

I have reloaded 380 ACP in the past and from it grew a deeper appreciation for the word tedious.

 

[LCazador]

Use a taper crimp, just enough to remove the bell from the expanding process. Case length should not differ more than plus or minus two thousandths. This will produce more consistent headspace and crimp. Keep this in mind when mixing headstamps.

 

[Ray123]

I've been reloading for more years than I care to remember, mostly rifle and a trainload of .38/.357, but never .380 ACP. Now I find myself needing to get started on that caliber and have a few questions.

First relates to bullet diameter. I'd like to load cast bullets 'cuz they're cheap. Jacketed bullets are .355", and the standard for cast bullets (not just .380) is to add .001" to the jacketed bullet die., which would, of course, be .356". I see that Berry's .380 plated bullets are indeed .356" but haven't checked plain lead bullet dias.. I seem to recall reading, however, that .356" bullets cause case bulges, even to the point of making the case oversized. True?

Second, crimp. At least some dies reportedly use a roll crimp. Since the .380 case seats on the case mouth, is this a good idea, or should I buy dies with a "factory" crimp, (e.g., Lee Precision), or maybe even a taper crimp, if they even exist. For that matter, do the cases even need a crimp with either lead or jacketed bullets?

Third, sizing die. The Hornady dies I'm leaning to are TiN, others carbide. Any preference? If so, why? I've used a lot of carbide dies but not TiN.

I don't expect to load a bunch of these, so will just stick with my old C press for the time being. Thanks in advance for your help!

I reload 380 acp by the thousands. I use Lee carbide sizing die...the Hornady is junk the 9mm Hornady Coated die needs lube to work or every other one gets the rim ripped off. Carbide dies period.
Jacketed bullets only cheap .355" bulk thousands at a time.
So in the Dillion right now with 2000 pcs of brass ready...just finished 1000 to give to my son. Buy bulk brass in 5 hundred or 1000 lots.
Lee carbide die station 1, station 2 Dillion powder measure with w244 3.7 gr gives 1027 fps 95 gr Everglades HP bulk packs 1000 or 3.5 gr to bulk 100 gr Hornaday fmj bulk Pack 500 pcs. Station 3 lyman pro 7 380 seating die, (expensive but just buy seating die) free floating spring loaded stem is sticking down, so your fingers don't get pinched when seat tiny bullets in tiny cases. Last Station is the Lee factory crimp with sizing carbide ring ...very important die ...after crimping the carbide sizing ring resizes the crimped round and smoothes out any bulges. Bullets always fit nicely in the Glock chamber. You can hit targets in the 30 to 50 yd range with the bulk Everglades 95Hp at 1027 fos ave not bad defensive rd. Run 50 gr copper HP at 1450 fps for high velocity 380 acp load with 5 gr Autocomp a plus p load. Also use cheap 9mm .355" 115 gr jacked bullets around 800 to 850 fps light recoil.
Never a cast bullet...1st 2 months I shot a 1000 rds a month out the little 380 acp. The Glock safety trigger pinches my finger in a nasty way...tried changing how I shoot but I'm more accurate when it pinches my finger..so I get a sore trigger finger missing a little meat. Machined titanium retainibg sleeve to replace the factory striker plastic retaining spring sleeve, and shortened the head space on the barrel hood. Everything else is stock. I like the 380a fun little pinker, I buy 8 pounders for it now. 1 lb of 244 only last over 1900 rds...it's cheap.. the primer is many times the most expensive component. Get 6 to 10 thousand pcs of cheap range brass and you are ready to go...extra mags and mag loading devices...shoot til you're fingers are sore ...hot barrel, no limits on ammo. Put a little lube on the Glock runs 100%, don't use light or moderate loads , my pistol functions 100% at the top loads especially when dirty and hot.

 

[Lesloan]

Thanks to all of you for your very helpful comments. I think you've saved me a heap of trouble. Ray 123, I was surprised by a couple of your comments; first, that you don't like the Hornady dies. This surprised me because my experience with Hornady dies has been very favorable. But the ones I've used are for 6mm BR, so there's been no TiN involved. I have a set of Lee Dies in 9x19 and like them, so I guess I'll stick with lee for 380. You might've just saved me a few bux- thanks! The second surprising comment had to do with cast bullets in a Glock. I've always heard that due to their hexagonal (or is it octagonal?) rifling, cast bullets don't mix well with Glock barrels. That point really doesn't matter to me because the .380's I'll be loading for are my wife and daughters' S&W 380 Shield EZ's. Still, you may/ve taught me 2 things today and I appreciate it.

 

[762plinker]

accurate number 2 or zip, berry's plated and run thru my dillon 550
it aint hard once set up

 

[Mark W]

These little devils are so cheap and work so good that I've not even bothered with casting my own. (and I AM a caster) They've got a nice hard lube coating on them that isn't messy and works great.

My dies are Lee, which seems to crimp gently but secure, and I've never bothered to use the Lee Factory crimp die which is included in the kit. My powder is HP38. jd

https://www.bearcreeksupplybullets.com/380acp

That’s funny! I have that website open on my phone to call them tomorrow. I found them while searching for some cast bullets for an old 455 Webley. I had never heard of them so I was going to call and check them out before order online. I take it they are good to go?

 

[jds holler]

That’s funny! I have that website open on my phone to call them tomorrow. I found them while searching for some cast bullets for an old 455 Webley. I had never heard of them so I was going to call and check them out before order online. I take it they are good to go?

They are all I've been using for my 380 for plinkers. I'd go maybe different if I planned on shooting a meth crazed ax killer.

What really sold me on them is my wife's Bersa Thunder. It's a nice sized little gun with good sights to determine how accurate your ammo is shooting, and it's a nail driver with these loads. jd

 

[RPJ]

Thank you so much for allowing me to join this forum. I’m not new to shooting though mostly pistols. 9mm, 380, and 40 cal are my experience. I shoot for recreation and training in self defense. I’m 79 yrs old now so the 40 beats me up a little.
I’m anxious to get started reading responses and posts and getting answers to some of my reloading issues. Thanks

 

[tommeboy]

Hornady pistol dies are junk. Just like said above. You have to lube. And if and when the coating flakes you are going to have some very scored up brass. Bullet diameter is going to depend on your gun. 380 is just like 9mm the bore is all over the place. If you are shooting plated or jacketed just shoot whatever.

My 380. Ruger Security 380 has to have a 0.358" cast bullet. It will not group with anything under that in cast. Problem with that, brass cracks often. And be careful of range brass. Lots of makers out there like to push the pressures in this case. But the problem is most 380 have unsupported chambers and it ruin brass if loaded heavy. Most SIG brass I find has no primers in them they are so hot. And the ones that do have a primer you can seat it with your thumb.

If you find brass that has the belly on the side pitch it. It is not safe. Seen way too many gun come unglued after people ran the brass threw a bulge buster. Just don't do it. Save yourself some worry.

I run mainly a 93hr hp cast from a MP mold then powder coated and sized to 0.358" I use mainly titegroup because I have about 16lbs of it. It is not a fast load but it works. And the 380 needs a bullet that penetrates not expands. If the hp on a 380 expands it does not have the weight or speed to penetrate. That why ever since it was first made everyone carries a fmj. Thats what I carry in both the 380s I carry.

 

[Iowa Fox]

I purchased the Lee 95gr 6 cavity mold for the 380.. This mold is a really an easy caster and drops at 356 which is perfect. Most of them I just swish around in Lee alox and air dry. Some I powder coat for practice powder coating. I got the mold from Midway about 4 years ago for my birthday price which was 30 some bucks. The price has gone up a lot since them. Brass is free and only 2-3 grains of powder. I don't shoot them. The kids shoot them for practice and to stay on top of the game with their pocket pistols.

 

[AccelR8]

That Bear Creek 95 gr. mentioned in a couple of posts is a great bullet that functions flawlessly and accurately in my Beretta 84. It however is an absolute no-go in my S&W Bodyguard 2.0. The rim of the case being extracted catches on the case mouth of the next round up in the mag. The extractor pops off the rim usually damaging the rim and the gun jams. It happens every shot, no exceptions. Any bullet that does not have that step between the bearing surface and the nose is fine in that gun.

 

[Minshooter]

The Lee .380 factory Crimp die is a taper crimp die.
Only difference is the carbide sizer ring that might iron out some irregularities.
If you're running a MAC 11, it might be worth it.
I used the standard taper crimp for decades, then switched to the factory crimp -just to try it.
Cannot tell any difference.

(The Lee Rifle Cartridge Factory Crimp Dies use a four point collet type crimp sleeve.
Totally different from the pistol die, and extremely secure for autoloaders and tube magazine rifles).

 

[RPJ]

I’ve just started reloading 380 acp. I’ve reloaded 9mm without any issues but these little devils have me stumped. I’m using LEE dies, Hornandy new unprimed brass, Winchester 231 powder, 95 gn Speer TMJ bullets. Powder I’ve loaded 3.2 GN and .970 OAL. I’m shooting with Glock 42. The result is the round chambers fine, fires but will not eject. When firing 1 round the slide does not lock back. The brass looks burnt with powder and often brass has burrs on the edge.
Any help would be very much appreciated.

 

[funflyer]

I load and shoot a lot of 380 since I have 15 380 pistols. Started with Hornady TiN dies and soon realized how much smoother RCBS sizing dies were. As for bullet diameter, .357" is what I size most of my castings to since most of my 380's slugged over .356". The .357" bullets don't bother the cases at all and they feed and chamber reliably. Nothing different or special about taper crimping, simply remove the bell and make sure they "plunk" in the chamber and drop free without binding.

 

[bozo699]

I’ve just started reloading 380 acp. I’ve reloaded 9mm without any issues but these little devils have me stumped. I’m using LEE dies, Hornandy new unprimed brass, Winchester 231 powder, 95 gn Speer TMJ bullets. Powder I’ve loaded 3.2 GN and .970 OAL. I’m shooting with Glock 42. The result is the round chambers fine, fires but will not eject. When firing 1 round the slide does not lock back. The brass looks burnt with powder and often brass has burrs on the edge.
Any

Thank you so much for allowing me to join this forum. I’m not new to shooting though mostly pistols. 9mm, 380, and 40 cal are my experience. I shoot for recreation and training in self defense. I’m 79 yrs old now so the 40 beats me up a little.
I’m anxious to get started reading responses and posts and getting answers to some of my reloading issues. Thanks

Welcome to the forum!…The .380 is a fun little cartridge. Best of luck. Joshb and jds holler are a wealth of knowledge on pistols
Wayne

 

[joshb]

Why, thank you Wayne, but I’m no expert. I do know enough to be dangerous.
I did happen to pick up two 380’s yesterday. My Walther PPK/S came in. While I was there, I spied a CZ 83 in the cabinets. I like neat older guns so I bought it. It feels very solid in my hand.
I bought a 200 round brick of ammo so I can try them out tomorrow. I’ll report in with results.