• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

First time rust in chamber! Help !

So my old faithful deer gun , first gen ruger american 308 has some rust in the chamber !! This has never happend on any on my guns so not sure what to do . Its light rust nothing bad but still not sure what to to ...
Ill try get a pic when home ..
Should I try find a brush that fits the chamber to get it out then oil it with a mop? Guess thats all that can be done ?
 
Wrap some 0000 steel wool around an old bore brush and give it a shot of oil, like kroil, rem-oil etc. A short section of old brass or aluminum cleaning rod and a drill, then carefully spin it in the chamber, avoiding the throat area. If it's just light rust it'll come right out. Same principle for cleaning the outside of lightly rusted firearms, even blued. Just oil up the fine steel wool and scrub it off. The 0000 steel wool won't hurt bluing.
 
Wrap some 0000 steel wool around an old bore brush and give it a shot of oil, like kroil, rem-oil etc. A short section of old brass or aluminum cleaning rod and a drill, then carefully spin it in the chamber, avoiding the throat area. If it's just light rust it'll come right out. Same principle for cleaning the outside of lightly rusted firearms, even blued. Just oil up the fine steel wool and scrub it off. The 0000 steel wool won't hurt bluing.
May have to order some never seen any 0000 steel wool here in town
 
The fixes have been offered so I won't comment on this. I will offer a preventative measure that I use.

One of areas often neglected when cleaning a rifle is the chamber. After cleaning the bore, I always clean the chamber with a lightly coated tight patch of mineral spirits to remove any carbon residue. This leaves the chamber exposed to potential corrosion over time.

To avoid potential development of corrosion, I swab the chamber with a tight patch of lightly coated Hoppe's Oil (mineral oil) which leaves a thin layer of protection. If you use this method, you must have fail safe method to make sure that you remove any traces of oil before firing the rifle.

Before the next shooting session, I swab the chamber with a tight patch of lightly coated mineral spirits. My fail-safe method is placing a small piece (about 1" in length) of red rubber hose wrapped around the tip of the barrel near the muzzle (not obstructing the bore) to remind me to dry patch the bore and wet patch the chamber before firing the rifle.

This may sound tedious, but I only do this between cleanings which is every 50 to 60 rounds. This seems to keep corrosion from forming.

PS: I clean the lug recesses at the end of each season with a Dewey tool designed for such a function.
 
The fixes have been offered so I won't comment on this. I will offer a preventative measure that I use.

One of areas often neglected when cleaning a rifle is the chamber. After cleaning the bore, I always clean the chamber with a lightly coated tight patch of mineral spirits to remove any carbon residue. This leaves the chamber exposed to potential corrosion over time.

To avoid potential development of corrosion, I swab the chamber with a tight patch of lightly coated Hoppe's Oil (mineral oil) which leaves a thin layer of protection. If you use this method, you must have fail safe method to make sure that you remove any traces of oil before firing the rifle.

Before the next shooting session, I swab the chamber with a tight patch of lightly coated mineral spirits. My fail-safe method is placing a small piece (about 1" in length) of red rubber hose wrapped around the tip of the barrel near the muzzle (not obstructing the bore) to remind me to dry patch the bore and wet patch the chamber before firing the rifle.

This may sound tedious, but I only do this between cleanings which is every 50 to 60 rounds. This seems to keep corrosion from forming.

PS: I clean the lug recesses at the end of each season with a Dewey tool designed for such a function.
Good information, thank you .. I think what got it was getting caught in the light rain one day and not having stuff at the camp to clean it other than a bore snake for few days . This is why I don't take my custom stuff hunting lol . I reqlly want a browning bar in 308 . Just hear a 50/50 review on there accuracy. That kinda stops me from buying one . Some say there less than 1in at 100yards . Other say thay cant get better than 3or4 in at 100
 
Lowe's and Home Depot both carry 0000 steel wool, as does TruValue and Ace. Common for anyone who finishes wood.

I'm lucky to live in a dry climate so rust usually is not an issue. After cleaning I run a mop in the chamber to get out any residual oil. The .223 gets a .410 mop, the .308 a 28ga (IIRC). No extra oil applied.
 
May have to order some never seen any 0000 steel wool here in town
Around here, it's no trouble to find 0000. I've used 000 and it did fine too but the 0000 is a safer bet on the finish of blued guns. For the chamber, 000 would be fine if that's all you can find. A real Brillo Pad is about 000..fwiw. There might be a used/new one in your kitchen. Heck, you could use 320 grip sandpaper in the chamber but it's be best done lightly and in a lathe. Most smiths hit a new chamber a bit with 320ish paper after chambering. It just takes a little more caution. Krokus cloth type scuff pads will work too but be warned, they will damage bluing
 
Reminds me of a rule when shooting tube magazine guns. Never put them directly on a bag or rest. Grip the fore end and lay your hand on the rest. I found my Garand grouped better that way as well.
 
Maybe wrap some 0000 steel wool on a mop and use some sort of penetrating oil like Kroil .
Steel wool
and some type of solvent to help wash and lube while spinning
I just use gasoline, its cheap, but a guy can use Mineral spirits if that's a concern
Wd-40 etc
something light
Gas dries quickly though
 
Reminds me of a rule when shooting tube magazine guns. Never put them directly on a bag or rest. Grip the fore end and lay your hand on the rest. I found my Garand grouped better that way as well.
Guns are actually designed to be shot that way
Holding the forend
When i read that some years ago, trying to get a consistent method even for bench shooting
(as opposed to a fist under the butt)
I now hold ALL fore ends, and get much better consistency across all guns be it F-class or short range BR
I don't lay my hand on the rest but, I do hold the fore end.
---
I dont free recoil much
 
Lowe's and Home Depot both carry 0000 steel wool, as does TruValue and Ace. Common for anyone who finishes wood.

I'm lucky to live in a dry climate so rust usually is not an issue. After cleaning I run a mop in the chamber to get out any residual oil. The .223 gets a .410 mop, the .308 a 28ga (IIRC). No extra oil applied.
I was about to ask what size mop for 223 and 308 chambers
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
169,201
Messages
2,272,014
Members
81,916
Latest member
JakenW
Back
Top