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Chambering method advice needed for beginner

It is aggravating when the ID decides to get squirrelly exactly where your throat is going be established. It’s like the initial gun drill decided to take a left or right turn.

This is the indicator I use. I pre drill, then reach up in there with one of these, indicate the lands where the throat will be, then single point bore to a predetermined size, then ream.

I always keep the ID of the muzzle running true.

As you probably know, if something is not straight, you decide what two points you are going to indicate and then machine the third point to match. I choose to indicate the ID of the muzzle, then the throat, then single point bore the chamber and ream. You then have three points dead true.

All the rest in between you don’t worry about.

Hi Jackie, I normally follow your method. Just this one got me thinking so I gave the gordy thing a try. Maybe ill not even check up that far again, but was just curious if you would still find it acceptable. Thanks
 
Where on the barrel did you initially indicate?
At the very ends?
If so you might want to think of the first inch of either end as scrap because of manufacturing and/or lapping process and indicate from 1” or so into the bore.
Initial was 1 inch in at the muzzle because It was not cut off yet, and 2.4 in at the throat.
 
Dial the neck and forward of that. (Gordy method)

I’ll die on this hill.
I use both. I'll use the rod to get close, then indicate.
I used to use the rod exclusively, but I often found more inconsistency than I could justify, I even slung a light weight under the rod to keep the bushing tensioned as it rode the bottom lands which helped- but there's still stacking tolerance with live pilots. At least, that's been my thinking...
 
I use both. I'll use the rod to get close, then indicate.
I used to use the rod exclusively, but I often found more inconsistency than I could justify, I even slung a light weight under the rod to keep the bushing tensioned as it rode the bottom lands which helped- but there's still stacking tolerance with live pilots. At least, that's been my thinking...
I have used the Gordy method and the technique of placing a light wt on the rod right at the bbl. to keep the rod n bushing in contact with the lands. The muzzle is always indexed to the 12 o’clock position to maintain a wind zero on my iron sights. It works for me.
 
I use both. I'll use the rod to get close, then indicate.
I used to use the rod exclusively, but I often found more inconsistency than I could justify, I even slung a light weight under the rod to keep the bushing tensioned as it rode the bottom lands which helped- but there's still stacking tolerance with live pilots. At least, that's been my thinking...
I have mentioned that I have found the same. Most recently I think in a discussion about indicating throats with Jim Borden. I use those rods to test fit bushings now when needed.
 
The rods are handy sometimes and I'm glad I have them, but I don't generally use them, other than to test a bushing size.

I'll get the barrel situated.
Indicate the OD of the barrel close to the chuck. Dial.
Indicate the OD of the barrel near the breech. Dial.

Dial the throat.
Dial in front of the throat. Sometimes "behind" the throat. Depends how easily things went. k

Drill.

Indicate my two spots again.

Pre-bore.

Thread tenon and clock barrel.

Reamer time.

The whole setup prior to running the reamer is maybe 20 minutes. An hour to ream, give or take. 30 minutes to do whatever muzzle work is required. 30 minutes to polish/engrave.

I call it 3 hours total with some distractions / problems.

My 300 WSM took me double that, because chatter.

Sorry for the unsolicited information.
 
The rods are handy sometimes and I'm glad I have them, but I don't generally use them, other than to test a bushing size.

I'll get the barrel situated.
Indicate the OD of the barrel close to the chuck. Dial.
Indicate the OD of the barrel near the breech. Dial.

Dial the throat.
Dial in front of the throat. Sometimes "behind" the throat. Depends how easily things went. k

Drill.

Indicate my two spots again.

Pre-bore.

Thread tenon and clock barrel.

Reamer time.

The whole setup prior to running the reamer is maybe 20 minutes. An hour to ream, give or take. 30 minutes to do whatever muzzle work is required. 30 minutes to polish/engrave.

I call it 3 hours total with some distractions / problems.

My 300 WSM took me double that, because chatter.

Sorry for the unsolicited information.
All good Aaron. I appreciate all the information. Im sure if we are all within tenths its the best we can do. Im not doing this for a living so maybe overthink it and poke around with indicators too much, hence the original post. Cheers
 
Last edited:
I use both. I'll use the rod to get close, then indicate.
I used to use the rod exclusively, but I often found more inconsistency than I could justify, I even slung a light weight under the rod to keep the bushing tensioned as it rode the bottom lands which helped- but there's still stacking tolerance with live pilots. At least, that's been my thinking...
That’s why my barrel mentor doesn’t like it, not repeatable.
 
The rods are handy sometimes and I'm glad I have them, but I don't generally use them, other than to test a bushing size.

I'll get the barrel situated.
Indicate the OD of the barrel close to the chuck. Dial.
Indicate the OD of the barrel near the breech. Dial.

Dial the throat.
Dial in front of the throat. Sometimes "behind" the throat. Depends how easily things went. k

Drill.

Indicate my two spots again.

Pre-bore.

Thread tenon and clock barrel.

Reamer time.

The whole setup prior to running the reamer is maybe 20 minutes. An hour to ream, give or take. 30 minutes to do whatever muzzle work is required. 30 minutes to polish/engrave.

I call it 3 hours total with some distractions / problems.

My 300 WSM took me double that, because chatter.

Sorry for the unsolicited information.
That’s basically my routine.
 

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