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6BR Norma Die Selection

ekraus

I have been loading since '72 but never for a precision rifle cartridge.
I have a rifle built with Shilen Barrel Savage 110 Series Standard Shank 6mm BR (Bench Rest) Norma Varmint Contour 1 in 8" Twist 26" Stainless Steel Barrel.
I am trying to find out the chamber specs for it.
I phoned them and spoke to someone that could not tell me the what the neck dimensions are for that barrel and it doesn't show the web page. I emailed them and maybe I will get a chamber diagram.
I want to get a FL non bushing die with a custom honed neck size. I dont really want to throw a bunch of cash at this project yet until I totally understand what I am doing and the Forester FL die is a good place to start. Dont really want to go with a bushing die to start. And not really sure about what bullets I will use. Probably start with Berger 105gr VLD's or I can get the Lapua 105gr scener's.
So I am using Lapua brass and have some Lapua factory 6BR rnds with a 105gr scener bullets.
The neck dimensions of the rnds are .268. I was told to get the neck of the die honed to either .264 or .265.
There is so much information about this it is totally confusing all I want to do to start is get something on paper with my own
loads. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
why not have someone slug the barrel for you, and then you can know for sure. seems like too many variables unless you can find exactly who made the barrel, what reamer they used, and how many chambers the reamer had cut...
 
I am a believer in Bushing Dies, but the Harrels and Hornady guys will make you a custom die to your brass.
I think they want 2-3 fired cases.
Hornady guy (forget his name) that takes calls and makes such a die you desire is on the Hornday podcast.

Myself I have a 6BRAi but am using Wilson Die and bushing I get from The Urbanrifleman, Brad, who's a sponsor here. i recenlty moved to .268 bushing using Lapua brass.
Be good to know if the barrel is .272 no turn neck from shillen. very likely it is unless someone specified smaller.
Maybe a call to Hornady about a custom die off your brass is worth the ask.

Good luck
 
ekraus said:
I have been loading since '72 but never for a precision rifle cartridge.
I have a rifle built with Shilen Barrel Savage 110 Series Standard Shank 6mm BR (Bench Rest) Norma Varmint Contour 1 in 8" Twist 26" Stainless Steel Barrel.
I am trying to find out the chamber specs for it.
I phoned them and spoke to someone that could not tell me the what the neck dimensions are for that barrel and it doesn't show the web page. I emailed them and maybe I will get a chamber diagram.
I want to get a FL non bushing die with a custom honed neck size. I dont really want to throw a bunch of cash at this project yet until I totally understand what I am doing and the Forester FL die is a good place to start. Dont really want to go with a bushing die to start. And not really sure about what bullets I will use. Probably start with Berger 105gr VLD's or I can get the Lapua 105gr scener's.
So I am using Lapua brass and have some Lapua factory 6BR rnds with a 105gr scener bullets.
The neck dimensions of the rnds are .268. I was told to get the neck of the die honed to either .264 or .265.
There is so much information about this it is totally confusing all I want to do to start is get something on paper with my own
loads. Any advice would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
You can even just get the 6BR Norma FL Forster sizing die from Midway and not even worry about getting it honed and you will be fine.
 
No offense meant to anyone but just curious. I've never been a long gun shooter and just getting set up to get into it. I should say plinker, not shooter. I'll be a good while advancing to actual shooter level, if ever. Anyway, these guns, even with hand loading, sound like $1 plus per round. What is the actual cost to create a round of ammo? And how many rounds are fired in one trip to the range? I'm prepping for .22lr shooting with a bit of .22 Hornet and .30 Carbine thrown in. Retired fixed income keeps Mr. Grumpy Checkbook on a fairly short leash. Just curious about the nice stuff.
 
atombomb said:
why not have someone slug the barrel for you, and then you can know for sure. seems like too many variables unless you can find exactly who made the barrel, what reamer they used, and how many chambers the reamer had cut...
Click to expand...
I’m not sure how slugging the barrel will tell him anything about the chamber..

To the OP, you need to know the neck diameter. While it’s probably a no turn chamber they need to be able to tell you for sure. Any shop that can’t isn’t worth doing business with. You can take the barrel off and have the neck checked with gage pins or do a chamber cast. No turn with .268” loaded ammo will be .271” or larger. Or if you can just get them to measure the neck diameter of the reamer.

Personally I would have the die honed to .265”. But there’s no reason not to go with a good FL bushing die too.
 
Last edited:
Leo_B said:
No offense meant to anyone but just curious. I've never been a long gun shooter and just getting set up to get into it. I should say plinker, not shooter. I'll be a good while advancing to actual shooter level, if ever. Anyway, these guns, even with hand loading, sound like $1 plus per round. What is the actual cost to create a round of ammo? And how many rounds are fired in one trip to the range? I'm prepping for .22lr shooting with a bit of .22 Hornet and .30 Carbine thrown in. Retired fixed income keeps Mr. Grumpy Checkbook on a fairly short leash. Just curious about the nice stuff.
Click to expand...
Ten cents for the primer, 25 powder, and 40 for bullet. Average out your brass cost.
 
All great advice. I hope Shilen will send me a spec on the chamber . The person I talked to had no clue what the specs of the reamer they used. Apparently there was no one there to answer if they could send me the chamber spec.
 
ekraus said:
All great advice. I hope Shilen will send me a spec on the chamber . The person I talked to had no clue what the specs of the reamer they used. Apparently there was no one there to answer if they could send me the chamber spec.
Click to expand...
Would love to hear your answer. I would like to go that route on a BVSS that is currently a .308 Win.
 
swd said:
I’m not sure how slugging the barrel will tell him anything about the chamber..

To the OP, you need to know the neck diameter. While it’s probably a no turn chamber they need to be able to tell you for sure. Any shop that can’t isn’t worth doing business with. You can take the barrel off and have the neck checked with gage pins or do a chamber cast. No turn with .268” loaded ammo will be .271” or larger. Or if you can just get them to measure the neck diameter of the reamer.

Personally I would have the die honed to .265”. But there’s no reason not to go with a good FL bushing die too.
Click to expand...
I think the correct terms for what he was referring to is having a chamber cast made. Note some of the casting materials are temperature sensitive so read the instructions :)
 
Leo_B said:
Thanks. Still beyond strictly fixed budgeting but not quite as bad as it could be.
Click to expand...
Primers are coming down to around .05c... for now, powder seems to be creeping upward, & reasonably decent bullets can be had for .25c or less. Just got some 52gr Barnes Matchburners that shoot real well in my 22-250. Hoping the 22BR likes them too.

I'm on fixed income too. Prioritize. You may be hangin' with the wrong crowd. These guys do like to spend other people's $$. :rolleyes:
 
I going to go with the Forester honed to .265 and get a box of the Lapua 105gr Scenar's to get my feet wet and go from there.
 
My 6BR has a .2725 chamber neck. What I done was order a Forster die from them and before shipping had them hone the neck to .265. With the Norma brass I use that gives me a .2665/.267 neck after sizing with spring back. Loaded round is .269 and this gives me appx .0035 of neck clearance and a neck tension (IF) of .002/.0025.. Works good for me. If you go this route do your measurements first and make sure they are good. Once the die is honed if you change brass with different neck thickness then things will change. JMO

Edit to add: It would be better to get your brass and bullets first and do the measurements then decide on the # you want your die honed to. JMO
 
For several years, I used a custom Forster FL die (.264 honed neck) with Lapua brass in a .272 neck. It worked well for my purposes.
 
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