Although I made a New Years resolution to avoid "barrel cleaning threads" I've opted to respond to this one since it deals with pistols.

Since I have shot them for over 50+ years including competition, I thought I might have something of value to share.
I found that cleaning a pistol depends on the kind of pistol, i.e., revolver, semi-auto, or single shot and the type of bullet / powder that you are using. While I've owned all three types of pistols over the last 50+ years, for the purposes of this thread I am only going to address revolvers since that's what I've primarily shot for the last 50+ years or so.
When I shot swaged hollow-base wadcutters with target load charges of 231 or Bullseye powder in my Model 14, 38 Special, I could go an entire season without cleaning the barrel without any drop off in accuracy. However, I had to clean the cylinder, under the extractor star, and frame housing the cylinder (i.e. top strap, face plate, etc.) periodically to maintain functionality due to powder accumulation.
For jacket bullets, I found that I could go 100 to 150 rounds between cleaning the
barrel without any loss of accuracy.
While I tried a variety of solvents and methods, I finally settle on old Hoppe's No. 9 with a bronze brush. After dry patching I run a
very lightly coated patch of Hoppe's Gun Oil (mineral oil) or Barricade down the bore. Before shooting the pistol, I run a dry patch through the bore.
Since revolvers must be cleaned from the muzzle when using a cleaning rod, care must be taken to avoid damaging the crown. For this reason, the best cleaning rod I have found is the carbon fiber rods made by Hoppe's. This is especially essential for 22 caliber revolvers. For centerfires, it's fairly easy to keep the rod from touching the crown if you mount the revolver in a padded shop vice making sure it is vertically level. Even so, the carbon fiber rod provides extra margin of protection should you inadvertently tilt the rod.