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Best stainless powder cup?

I've seen these billet machine powder cups people use for the auto tricklers..

What brand/where yall find these? I need one to keep the bounce out down and handle length. Im over the cheap powder pan .
 
I must be the unicorn.

I bought an Ingenuity Precision powder cup ten months ago. Alas, for me it bounced as many kernels out of my powder setup (Autotrickler 4 / FX-120i) as anything else.

I'm back to using the Area 419 aluminum cup. Not because it doesn't bounce kernels - it does. But just because if there's not going to be a performance improvement, I'll take metal over plastic.
 
I have the M.K. Machining pan as well and it does a good job. I actually covered the inside bottom of the pan with some painters tape, which helped with what little bouncing of kernels I was getting, and it seemed to help keep the powder(especially ball powders) from wanting to stick to the bottom.
 
Not really.
‘Plastic’ and static electricity are made for each other.
I've seen these billet machine powder cups people use for the auto tricklers..

What brand/where yall find these? I need one to keep the bounce out down and handle length. Im over the cheap powder pan .
I was wondering why stainless. I had plastic way back before I had experience with the static electricity. Most items I use now are aluminum, but Stainless might have an added benefit or two too. I used to have the rcbs auto powder measurer machine, but i found i could divvy out my powders quicker manually. I am only going to .1 grain accuracy too though. The newer models of auto powder measurers and tricklers, can they go to the second placeholder behind the decimal now days? I be interested to see what happens to my groups if i am trickling to .XX grn loads rather than .x grn loads
 
I must be the unicorn.

I bought an Ingenuity Precision powder cup ten months ago. Alas, for me it bounced as many kernels out of my powder setup (Autotrickler 4 / FX-120i) as anything else.

I'm back to using the Area 419 aluminum cup. Not because it doesn't bounce kernels - it does. But just because if there's not going to be a performance improvement, I'll take metal over plastic.
This subject has been up before and my post was that I just put a bit of 3M blue masking tape to line the bottom of my Area 419 powder cup that came with the whole upgrade kit they once sold that replaced all the printed bits of the original AutoTrickler {I have a Mk1 Autotrickler} and that has stoped any bounce. This fix has NOT bounced one kernel in thousands of rounds so far… Varget & 4831sc being the principle powders.
Just two cross small pieces in the bottom, moulded to fit and a dash of door lock graphite rubbed into the tape to eliminate any stickiness.
Replaced the original trickler unit with an Ingenuity one and that really speeded up the throw time and virtually eliminated any over/under throw…
 

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I must be the unicorn.

I bought an Ingenuity Precision powder cup ten months ago. Alas, for me it bounced as many kernels out of my powder setup (Autotrickler 4 / FX-120i) as anything else.

I'm back to using the Area 419 aluminum cup. Not because it doesn't bounce kernels - it does. But just because if there's not going to be a performance improvement, I'll take metal over plastic.

Same here with the metal cup on the top right in post #5. Went back to the glass one that came with the V4. I use the Just Dreaming riser with the extension on the powder discharge. No leakage.

Later

Dave
 
I like a metal cup to prevent static electricity from grabbing particles. I also like a light weight cup, and felt the glass cup of my V3 was too heavy. So I made my own.
I soldered a handle on a stainless shot glass cup from Amazon. The secret is to position it so the powder drops onto the side of the cup, not directly centered on the bottom.

I cut the height of the cup with a dremel disk.

Amazon cup

IMG_2110_Medium.jpg
 
I am now using an Area 419 cup for the Chargemaster as it came with a made for the cup (self-centering) platen. I have to say I am Not seeing kernels bounce out as I always have with a shallow pan from the scale/dispenser makers. It was on sale and someone here on AS pointed it out or I would not have changed.
These are shorter in stature also than the ones for the Auto-Trickler sets ups.
 
Do yourself a BIG favor and buy an Ingenuity Precision powder cup. Nothing bounces out of them!
How is the pour out of the Ingenuity powder cup? My issue with the Autotrickler cup is it dumps everything out at once instead of a slow controlled pour like I can get with my beam scale pan. With a fast dump out of the cup into a 10” drop tube, my powder doesn’t pack in the 6 PPC case enough with charges over 29.6 gr of n133 to get consistent seating depths. If I can control the pour out of an Ingenuity cup I am interested in getting one.
 
For anyone having bouncing kernels, especially with the IP cup (which really just about ELIMINATES it) the issue is more likely the distance from dispenser to your cup, than the cup itself. For my setup (ATV4) I’ve noticed there is really no difference in bounce between the standard “shot glass” cup and my IP cup if I used the OEM breeze shield and MacDonald cover. Like this…
IMG_9747.jpeg
But when using the Riser Mod made by JustDreaming, like here….
IMG_9748.jpeg
There definitely ARE significant bouncing kernels (even with the IP cup), unless I attach the little metal tip (you can see it in the pic) to the bottom of the ATV4 dispenser’s “nozzle”. (That tip is included with the riser mod) The reason for it is simply the extra height from the cup. The Riser Mod sets the whole ATV4 up just a little bit higher off the scale platform than the OEM cover and draft shield do. With the setup in the bottom pic I get NO kernels bouncing ever. Never a single kernel on the scale platform. And I can easily adjust the tilt angle of the ATV4 for calibration. IMO that riser mod is a far more useful upgrade to the AutoTrickler than any cup. JustDreaming even makes one specifically designed for use with the Area419 plate and cup. But for me, it and the IP cup are aces!
 

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