• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Neck turned brass on no turn/factory chamber.

No, because i don't turn necks for a factory chamber. What does a loaded round neck measure on your ammo? You said fired measured .294,i generally look for. 003 clearance on a loaded round to chamber neck diameter. It is your brass and your time, spend it as you see fit. You ask for opinions, I gave you mine, you don't have to use it.
Ok but simply relax you teacher!
 
The safe route would be to follow reasons given by others for not using the mixed brass. But Lapua is good brass.

If it were mine, I'd clean the brass, then sort by:
-Visual inspection of general condition of the brass. ie, damaged case head from extraction.
-Search for head separation with the paper clip method.
-Measure the case .200 line and compare to your existing fired cases, using plus zero for a standard keep.
-Anneal the brass, 8-9 second to red orange and size them. Maybe even 2 times.
-When in doubt, throw them out.

But that's just me. Meh!


-

Thanks for your argumentate reply Sir!

I presume, from fired case neck, that my neck chamber are about.294"/.2945".

My standard loaded round measure a the neck .290"

I plan to turning the necks at .0125", only a skinny turning and only for make a sort of consistency on the neck thikness.

So with skinny turned neck a loaded ammo with Scenar 139gn measure about .289" for a total chamber clearance of .0055" (.00275" per neck chamber side).
.0055" or .006" of clearance are a good clearance or not?

Now the Lapua brass case for 6,5x47 Lapua have a neck tickness about .01325" on average measure now on some new unfired cases.
The neck thikness may vary, on the same case, from .01255" to.0137", very inaccurate for the current price (165€ or more for 100pcs) on my "socialist" country ;)

Thanks for all the replyes!
 
I have never turned a neck(yet). I would probably try a small number vs all, prep and shoot to see if it makes any difference.
I will say I do enjoy using my tools as much as the next guy but if they don't shoot well or make no noticeable difference why spend the time ?
 
I agree, but having 200 cases with neck thicknesses ranging from .0126" to .0130" isn't acceptable or bearable for a self-respecting reloader, even a non-competitive one, who has the equipment and time (since I can't shoot).

Something worthwhile would be making the necks as uniform as possible, don't you think?

And then, as you say, I spend time and learn something.

In general, what could/should be the maximum clearance for neck expansion in the chamber? 2, 3, 4, 5 thousandths of an inch per side?

I anneal at any firing.

Thanks
 
I have relied on turning the necks of brass that I know to have been fired one time (lots of Lake City) to make it better - and always got good results from doing so, whether in a no-turn or a tight neck chamber. As others alluded to or said, making your brass thinner on a no-turn neck can cause your brass to wear out a bit faster simply because the brass has a bit more room to expand when fired (and get reduced on sizing). Annealing does help keep that in check, to a point, and I'd do that since you have the gear. If it were me, I'd not hesitate to turn the necks on that portion of the brass you know to have been fired one time. On the portion that has unknown firings on it, I'd pass on that as others have mentioned - mainly because I wouldn't view that brass as worth going to the trouble for the work involved - and for no other reason. If you have time on your hands, turning it isn't going to hurt, though it might make an improvement. It certainly has for me on the Lake City. This is said with the intent of making it more uniform and possibly more accurate - not making it last longer - which, of course, it won't.
I agree and like turning necks to see what happens and it does help but just turning the necks is only part of it. I don't turn Lapua brass but the brass is expendable and different neck tensions can make a difference. I just fired the best 20 shot group on my life at 1000 yards by trying new things.
 
I can't think of a bigger waste of time and money than to obtain all the tools necessary to neck turn, setting up the tools, and then only cleaning up 75% of the neck, like you're leaving some kind of safety margin just in case. Especially when it will only take another .0005 off the neck to do it. Factory chambers already have like .006-.008 of clearance to start with. It's not going to hurt a damn thing to clean them up 100%. Does anyone only uniform and clean 75% of their primer pockets? Or trim 75% of their cases? Or clean only 75% of their cases?
 
I agree and like turning necks to see what happens and it does help but just turning the necks is only part of it. I don't turn Lapua brass but the brass is expendable and different neck tensions can make a difference. I just fired the best 20 shot group on my life at 1000 yards by trying new things.

New things like?
 
Thanks for your argumentate reply Sir!

I presume, from fired case neck, that my neck chamber are about.294"/.2945".

My standard loaded round measure a the neck .290"

I plan to turning the necks at .0125", only a skinny turning and only for make a sort of consistency on the neck thikness.

So with skinny turned neck a loaded ammo with Scenar 139gn measure about .289" for a total chamber clearance of .0055" (.00275" per neck chamber side).
.0055" or .006" of clearance are a good clearance or not?

Now the Lapua brass case for 6,5x47 Lapua have a neck tickness about .01325" on average measure now on some new unfired cases.
The neck thikness may vary, on the same case, from .01255" to.0137", very inaccurate for the current price (165€ or more for 100pcs) on my "socialist" country ;)

Thanks for all the replyes!
You are on the right track, I like your numbers. Your chamber clearances are excellent.

My fired case neck dimension- 0.2949”
My sized case neck dimension- 0.2877
My loaded case neck dimension- 0.2895
Case neck thickness- 0.0126

The target tells all! Good luck in your endeavors!
 
I agree and like turning necks to see what happens and it does help but just turning the necks is only part of it. I don't turn Lapua brass but the brass is expendable and different neck tensions can make a difference. I just fired the best 20 shot group on my life at 1000 yards by trying new things.

Thanks for your reply Steve, I'm new to the shooting, but I think that the quality of Lapua brass are down from some year at now...
 
I can't think of a bigger waste of time and money than to obtain all the tools necessary to neck turn, setting up the tools, and then only cleaning up 75% of the neck, like you're leaving some kind of safety margin just in case. Especially when it will only take another .0005 off the neck to do it. Factory chambers already have like .006-.008 of clearance to start with. It's not going to hurt a damn thing to clean them up 100%. Does anyone only uniform and clean 75% of their primer pockets? Or trim 75% of their cases? Or clean only 75% of their cases?

Hi, thank you for sharing your experiences with me.
I don't normally turn cases until the dreaded "donut" appears.
This doesn't cause any problems with seating the bullet, but it does cause problems with chambering the case.
Using a mandrel to tension the neck brings the donut to the outside, which interferes with the joint between the neck and the shoulder.
A light turning process, eliminating just the donut, solves the problem.

I'd like to ask you a question: have you noticed any hardening of the neck after turning?
If so, is re-annealing necessary?
As I was saying, I'd like to even out the thickness of the necks without thinning the material as would be done when turning a turn chamber.
I saw that to get a uniform turning I would have to go down to about .01225".
I would increase the clearance with the chamber.
I'm afraid it might be too much, but reading your comment and @47WillysGuy, I think I shouldn't encounter any problems, especially with the dimensions I have in my chamber. Can you confirm?
Maybe next time I reload, if it snows ;) I could turn them again and bring them down to .01225".

Thanks everyone!
 
You are on the right track, I like your numbers. Your chamber clearances are excellent.

My fired case neck dimension- 0.2949”
My sized case neck dimension- 0.2877
My loaded case neck dimension- 0.2895
Case neck thickness- 0.0126

The target tells all! Good luck in your endeavors!

Thanks for your reply and details, I hope to tell new life for this brass...
 
New things like?
I had some Peterson FAT NECK brass and it was not labeled to be that so it took me awhile to figure out that it needed to be turned to not get pressure signs. The neck of the brass got thicker the closer it got to the shoulder until I only had .001" clearance. I did not notice it until I measured a loaded case. So I ordered a neck turning tool from Pat at PMA. I just wanted to take a little off and Pat warned me to take .012 off but I did not listen. Then found out he was correct and sent the tool back to get reset to .012' He was very happy to do it but I had to buy him lunch, which I was very happy to do. So I started turning some Starline brass I have and it made s big difference. I turn my 30-06 brass to .0125" but it is a turn chamber at .337" So, I learned to listen to people that know more than I do and at least try to do what has worked for them and see what happens.
 
Last edited:
Hello, I've recived from a friend a mixed quantity of 6,5x47 Lapua brass.
These brass are from vary number of firing, vary lot...
These are a Babele batch brasses.....

The neck thikness variance are about from .123thou to .132thou (some cases also on the same neck), so I think to turn all the neck cases for a little bit of consistency .123thou.

My chamber are factory no turn and the neck diameter of fired case a are .294"

I have the stuff for neck turning.

I anneal my brass at any firing.

Have some type of issues to fire neck turned cases like I plan on my .294" neck chamber?

Thanks and Happy new year!
In a no turn chamber, Id only turn the high spots and not a total cleanup. Turned necks in a no turn chamber expand farther than normal and get worked too much.
 
I have one chamber that is specifcly designed and cut to use LC military brass. I turn the LC once fired brass, just to uniform the neck thickness. I leave a hair line of uncut brass. Military brass is way different from commercial brass, different specs and only intended to be shot once.
I would not cut to the thinnest neck. I would cut to allow the standard clearance for expansion of the fired round with a .264 bullet seated. I would also full length resize and do a 100% prep on each case. Every round after they are annealed.
The necked that are too thin to turn, toss.
Best is to start with new brass as the full prep is tedious and losing pieces on the first firing is never a good thing.
 
don't normally turn cases until the dreaded "donut" appears.
This doesn't cause any problems with seating the bullet, but it does cause problems with chambering the case.
Most of us hear on this forum refer to the dreaded donut inside the case and causing big problems seating a bullet to or below the neck shoulder junction.
 
I'd like to ask you a question: have you noticed any hardening of the neck after turning?
If so, is re-annealing necessary?
I usually only turn necks before the first firing, so the brass is as soft as it's ever going to be. If your brass has already been fired once, it may help to anneal it first. The act of turning necks on it's own doesn't require annealing again afterwards.
 
I had some Peterson FAT NECK brass and it was not labeled to be that so it took me awhile to figure out that it needed to be turned to not get pressure signs. So I ordered a neck turning tool from Pat at PMA. I just wanted to take a little off and Pat warned me to take .012 off but I did not listen. Then found out he was correct and sent the tool back to get reset to .012' He was very happy to do it but I had to buy him lunch, which I was very happy to do. So I started turning some Starline brass I have and it made s big difference. I turn my 30-06 brass to .0125" but it is a turn chamber at .337" So, I learned to listen to people that know more than I do and at least try to do what has worked for them and see what happens.

Thanks for the tip. I usually listen to good advice, but I'm stubborn... ;)
I residenze some Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor cases for my 6.5x47 Lapua.
I'm using them without any problems, even though they're very different from the Lapua case material.
 
Hello, I've recived from a friend a mixed quantity of 6,5x47 Lapua brass.
These brass are from vary number of firing, vary lot...
These are a Babele batch brasses.....

The neck thikness variance are about from .123thou to .132thou (some cases also on the same neck), so I think to turn all the neck cases for a little bit of consistency .123thou.

My chamber are factory no turn and the neck diameter of fired case a are .294"

I have the stuff for neck turning.

I anneal my brass at any firing.

Have some type of issues to fire neck turned cases like I plan on my .294" neck chamber?

Thanks and Happy new year!
Hello, I've recived from a friend a mixed quantity of 6,5x47 Lapua brass.
These brass are from vary number of firing, vary lot...
These are a Babele batch brasses.....

The neck thikness variance are about from .123thou to .132thou (some cases also on the same neck), so I think to turn all the neck cases for a little bit of consistency .123thou.

My chamber are factory no turn and the neck diameter of fired case a are .294"

I have the stuff for neck turning.

I anneal my brass at any firing.

Have some type of issues to fire neck turned cases like I plan on my .294" neck chamber?

Thanks and Happy new year!
Unless he gave you the barrel that shot it, don't mess with it. The stuff is just used brass, not worth fooling with.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
170,233
Messages
2,291,315
Members
82,724
Latest member
Hunter.pope8
Back
Top