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Bushing a firing pin

I am experiencing primer flow and pierced primers on a Rem700 footprint custom action with a .068 pin diameter. The manufacturer checked the bolt this week and everything is in spec. Firing pin diameter, firing pin hole diameter, firing pin protrusion, firing pin shape, etc.


I am think would be nice to have the pin diameter reduced for peace of mind. I called Gretan And they are not interested in taking this work.


1. Is there any reason why I should not reduce the firing pin diameter? Any disadvantages to doing this?

2. Any recommendations for a machinist that is qualified to do this?

-Trevor
Trevor, I would verify the pin hole diameter. A .068 pin tip shouldn't be a problem, provided the pin hole is correct and isn't jagged. -Al
 
I never had a problem with any of my Remmy's
I just don't understand all these Rem 700 horror stories
I mean statistically speaking sure
When we have 2.2 Millions members on here
and maybe 1/10,000 remmys got a little wack
We're going to hear over 200 horror stories instantly come out of the woodwork once 1 of them pops up
I've read even custom actions can have a bad day, new out of the box occasionally.
---
If I drive pressures up to where we see presure signs sure, I can get some cratering goin on
Thats just basic physics - there has got to be SOME clearance in the bolt for the pin to go through
And once pressures go high enough, the brass flow will take path of least resistance.
Into that clearance...
But - ??? I don't see why some people think every single bolt in existence needs to be bushed
Wondering if some people are not understanding why cratering happens
(IE: tune the load down a notch, its a pressure sign)
 

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Having had several 700's with this issue, I can vouch for it being a real deal on some actions.

The stock 700 bolts don't provide any guidance for the pin tip when it's in the cocked position. Because of this, there has to be enough pin hole clearance to let the pin tip find it way through the hole. That clearance lets the primer flow into it...thus, the 'crater' or ridge around the pin indent in the primer. If the pin hole is jagged and sharp, this gives a punch effect that can shear little bits off the primer cup.
 
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I had one M700(22-250) that really had a raised ring spent primer at mid range book loads. I tried sizing too close with tension but it is a hunting rifle. I sent to Carlsbad, now primers are all normal up to book max with Varget. I wish I had saved more chrono/group data before bushing, it seems to shoot better now with a wider powder charge weight range(??).
 
But - ??? I don't see why some people think every single bolt in existence needs to be bushed
I’ve never heard anyone say that. But I will say that bushing the pin did solve primer flow issues on one of my rifles with loads well below max using CCI 450’s. Stacking tolerances can and does happen. Throw in human error and worn tooling for icing on the cake.
 
This seems to be mostly an issue with 223 bolt face. The CCI 400 primer cups are thinner than the 450's and many times changing primers cures the issue. I have not seen the same issue with large rifle primers
 
I’ve never heard anyone say that. But I will say that bushing the pin did solve primer flow issues on one of my rifles with loads well below max using CCI 450’s. Stacking tolerances can and does happen. Throw in human error and worn tooling for icing on the cake.
I've read enough posts when someone has primer cratering at all, or pierced primers
Several will jump in and insist it needs to be bushed, without asking for measurements, clearance etc.
And that all their 700's are bushed
etc.
---
Not that it hurts to have it bushed even if it may not need it
Just that, there are also, other, reasons for primer cratering/ piercing before jumping to the conclusion it must be bushed because it's a Remington.
---
I'm not against it, I just have not personally needed it on any of my own remingtons
So it surprises me is all when I see so many insist on it
---
So if someone has experienced it more than once, I get it, decent insurance to weed out future troubleshooting
---
I am more the type of person that troubleshoots until the root cause is found
as opposed to throwing money at it in every way until its fixed
---
Kind of like, there's some mechanics who troubleshoot by arbitrarily replacing parts until it finally runs
instead of troubelshooting to find the one part that actually "NEEDS" replacing
I don't know how many times I have heard someone say they replaced "the coil" on their engine cuz they couldnt get it to start
When the problem was the carb
---
Typical convo'
---I couldnt get it to start, so, I replaced the coil, it still wont run
Why did you replace the coil? Coils hardly ever go bad
---I figured that was the first place to start
Did you test the coil first?
---??? How do you do that?
(Heeeeere's yer sign)
 
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