New at reloading need opinion

[edix]

Well, I'll bring up something that it seems every one else missed.

You're seating a mono bullet 0.011" off the lands.

With mono bullets you typically start at 0.050" off the lands.

This gives them a jump to help get momentum going to engrave the rifling into the bullet.

Yeah, I know, what is 0.04" going to do?!
But we are measuring in milliseconds here.

Been meaning to respond all day but work calls first.
I know someone asked so. Factory Hornady ammo primers look perfectly normal. This only happens in my hand loads.
I'm starting to learn in this thread that I don't have the proper tools to get people a proper answer. I did not know what CBTO was until Braxton explained it to me today. I still had to google it though.
I'm learning fast I should stop measuring from base of brass to tip of bullet.

Coyotefurharvester you are correct the website states being .02 off the lands. When I was that far I was experiencing heavy bolt lift. I read someplace that by pushing the bullet out farther it could relieve some pressure issues which it seems to have done.

So dumb question time are the brass safe to reuse with ejector marks?
Should I stop reloading "willy nilly" until I get some more tools?

 

[timeout]

Been meaning to respond all day but work calls first.
I know someone asked so. Factory Hornady ammo primers look perfectly normal. This only happens in my hand loads.
I'm starting to learn in this thread that I don't have the proper tools to get people a proper answer. I did not know what CBTO was until Braxton explained it to me today. I still had to google it though.
I'm learning fast I should stop measuring from base of brass to tip of bullet.

Coyotefurharvester you are correct the website states being .02 off the lands. When I was that far I was experiencing heavy bolt lift. I read someplace that by pushing the bullet out farther it could relieve some pressure issues which it seems to have done.

So dumb question time are the brass safe to reuse with ejector marks?
Should I stop reloading "willy nilly" until I get some more tools?

Those marks won't hurt anything. Get yourself a good zero to one inch micrometer that can measure to four decimal places. Measure that fired factory ammo diameter at the .200" line after firing. Load up some new test ammo starting at a book low charge weight and work up two or three tenths of a grain at a time. Measure each case at the .200 line after firing to check how much your brass is expanding there. This is a much more reliable way to check for over pressure than looking at the primers. Hard bolt lift is also an indicator. The thing is though that primary extraction is not set right on some Rem 700's. This which will give hard bolt lift and clickers. Measure that fired brass. As you have already learned COAL doesn't tell you anything with regards to where your bullet is in relationship to the lands. Several ways to determine that. Look up Eric Cortina video on YouTube for one way to accomplish the task.

 

[bozo699]

Yes primers pretty much always look like that. New Hornady brass LRP Win primers. Alpha Win primers and now CCI. I did just get some Peterson brass to try. Yeah did I mention i don't know nothing and have nobody to talk to about resizing? Haha.. Will a stock Hornady 25cm die resize 6.5 brass? Or do I need a 6.5 die and bushings?

Edix,
Welcome to the forum.
I stopped reading after this post. Not being mean but you need help, you need a mentor. Hope there’s someone near that can help you in the meantime benchrest Braxton offered to help you over the phone, he’s a weird duck that wears gloves to reload and a hazmat suit but he’s a good egg and has more than enough knowledge to help you over the phone and at this point that’s much better than texts on here I suggest you take him up on it as he will be able to talk you through some of this stuff but still if you could get some hands on from a local guy with knowledge would be best. Best of luck , come back and let us know how it turns out.
Wayne.

P.S same as Braxton I would definitely talk you through anything over the phone and there’s many others on here that would do the same . Pm me if I can help I will

 

[Benchrest Braxton]

Edix,
Welcome to the forum.
I stopped reading after this post. Not being mean but you need help, you need a mentor. Hope there’s someone near that can help you in the meantime benchrest Braxton offered to help you over the phone, he’s a weird duck that wears gloves to reload and a hazmat suit but he’s a good egg and has more than enough knowledge to help you over the phone and at this point that’s much better than texts on here I suggest you take him up on it as he will be able to talk you through some of this stuff but still if you could get some hands on from a local guy with knowledge would be best. Best of luck , come back and let us know how it turns out.
Wayne.

P.S same as Braxton I would definitely talk you through anything over the phone and there’s many others on here that would do the same . Pm me if I can help I will

i'm sending him over a comparator kit for headspace and CBTO measurements so we can get some better answers.

 

[bozo699]

i'm sending him over a comparator kit for headspace and CBTO measurements so we can get some better answers.

Let me know if ya need anything buddy.
Wayne

 

[edix]

Let me know if ya need anything buddy.
Wayne

Finding a mentor that has the expertise is hard. However I'm glad I finally registered and started this post. You all have been a great.

 

[Benchrest Braxton]

Finding a mentor that has the expertise is hard. However I'm glad I finally registered and started this post. You all have been a great.

accurateshooter is a wonderful place, my favorite forum by far

 

[bozo699]

accurateshooter is a wonderful place, my favorite forum by far

^^^^^^^^ 100% ditto
Wayne

 

[Tommie]

^^^^^^ Have firing pin bushed. Rounded edges on the primers say to me there is not an over pressure here. But everyone sees pressure signs a little bit different. That said proceed with caution, things can escalate quickly.

This is the correct answer

 

[Benchrest Braxton]

This is the correct answer

OP's factory ammo does not crater, and i doubt they are using harder primers than a cci450 (what the OP was cratering)

 

[6.5 forever]

Hmm. The primers are still pretty rounded.
That looks like a Rem with too much room around the firing pin tip. I.e., the primer is flowing back around the firing pin.

Yup to this. Might need the firing pin bushed

 

[Savagenut71]

Hammer bullets take an experienced reloader by their description. I run them in 250 savage and 280 AI and I started 50 thou off the lands , they can and will show pressure faster than conventional bullets but normally provide higher velocity. I agree on the Remington firing pin needing bushed or a holland oversize pin put in it. The ejector I would sweat personally with rounded primers. Call hammer , they are a wealth of info and very helpful.

 

[std7mag]

Been meaning to respond all day but work calls first.
I know someone asked so. Factory Hornady ammo primers look perfectly normal. This only happens in my hand loads.
I'm starting to learn in this thread that I don't have the proper tools to get people a proper answer. I did not know what CBTO was until Braxton explained it to me today. I still had to google it though.
I'm learning fast I should stop measuring from base of brass to tip of bullet.

Coyotefurharvester you are correct the website states being .02 off the lands. When I was that far I was experiencing heavy bolt lift. I read someplace that by pushing the bullet out farther it could relieve some pressure issues which it seems to have done.

So dumb question time are the brass safe to reuse with ejector marks?
Should I stop reloading "willy nilly" until I get some more tools?

Seeing as to how you mentioned using Hammer bullets, I'm going to assume that it's a hunting rifle that is going to be used for... Hunting.

As such, and with you using mono bullets, don't bother watching the Eric Cortina videos.
And unlike the F-Class and Benchrest shooters you are not going to be jamming the bullets.
Being used for hunting, you don't want the bullet possibly sticking in the barrel should you want to eject a loaded round. Cleaning powder out of a rifle can be a PITA!

A longer jump, especially with a mono will help lower your pressures.
You are essentially creating a longer freebore.
A practice commonly used for lever, semi auto, auto, and single shot rifles for many years.
Along with the Weatherby magnums.

Also, Hammers are machined bullets, not the typical cup & core bullets. Their dimensions tend to be of tighter tolerances than cup & core bullets.
So measuring to the tip, given the jump monos typically like, won't throw you off that much.

Personally, I don't use comparators. They too have dimensional tollerances. So no two are going to sit perfectly on the exact same spot on the ogive.
So even one thousandth (0.001") difference between comparators can result in much more than that in COAL.

Start the flaming...

 

[timeout]

Seeing as to how you mentioned using Hammer bullets, I'm going to assume that it's a hunting rifle that is going to be used for... Hunting.

As such, and with you using mono bullets, don't bother watching the Eric Cortina videos.
And unlike the F-Class and Benchrest shooters you are not going to be jamming the bullets.
Being used for hunting, you don't want the bullet possibly sticking in the barrel should you want to eject a loaded round. Cleaning powder out of a rifle can be a PITA!

A longer jump, especially with a mono will help lower your pressures.
You are essentially creating a longer freebore.
A practice commonly used for lever, semi auto, auto, and single shot rifles for many years.
Along with the Weatherby magnums.

Also, Hammers are machined bullets, not the typical cup & core bullets. Their dimensions tend to be of tighter tolerances than cup & core bullets.
So measuring to the tip, given the jump monos typically like, won't throw you off that much.

Personally, I don't use comparators. They too have dimensional tollerances. So no two are going to sit perfectly on the exact same spot on the ogive.
So even one thousandth (0.001") difference between comparators can result in much more than that in COAL.

Start the flaming...

Question for you. Since more jump equals less internal case volume, which equals higher pressure, at what point is more jump a wash concerning pressure? I used COAL numbers back when I began reloading, circa 1970. What with all the different styles of bullets I think that tells me nothing. I am probably wrong.

 

[Webster]

Well, I'll bring up something that it seems every one else missed.

You're seating a mono bullet 0.011" off the lands.

With mono bullets you typically start at 0.050" off the lands.

This gives them a jump to help get momentum going to engrave the rifling into the bullet.

Yeah, I know, what is 0.04" going to do?!
But we are measuring in milliseconds here.

Big assumption that the bullet needs help to get engraved.

 

[David Milisock]

I did my first rebarrel of a rifle and made it a 25 creed. I have only been reloading for about the past 2 months after slowly acquiring the necessary equipment. I keep running into pressure issues it seems at lower velocity then others. I have been using N555 the last 2 times out. 40gr at coal 2.738 using 127 hammer bulletsat 2710fps. With this bullet I hit lands at 2.749 from what I measure. Although box hornady load fine and they are 2.800 anyways. At 40 gr of 555 I start seeing markings on the brass. Is this something to worry about or do I need to back off? It looks like the ejector is striking I have many more questions but only because I have nobody to ask. Haha
View attachment 1688245View attachment 1688246

Can I ask if there has been any work done on the bolt? The primers look like they're flowing into the firing pin, but the edges of the primer still don't look flattened. It may be possible that the bolt id not true to the plane of the chamber.

 

[timeout]

Can I ask if there has been any work done on the bolt? The primers look like they're flowing into the firing pin, but the edges of the primer still don't look flattened. It may be possible that the bolt id not true to the plane of the chamber.

Well that has been mentioned in post numbers 3, 9, 10, 15, 29, 31 and 32.

 

[jwv2001]

Been meaning to respond all day but work calls first.
I know someone asked so. Factory Hornady ammo primers look perfectly normal. This only happens in my hand loads.

Try backing off your sizer so you only size the neck of a fired case. Don't touch the shoulder. Sounds to me like you are creating slop on your case and getting thrust on the bolt. See if that cures your problem

 

[Benchrest Braxton]

Seeing as to how you mentioned using Hammer bullets, I'm going to assume that it's a hunting rifle that is going to be used for... Hunting.

As such, and with you using mono bullets, don't bother watching the Eric Cortina videos.
And unlike the F-Class and Benchrest shooters you are not going to be jamming the bullets.
Being used for hunting, you don't want the bullet possibly sticking in the barrel should you want to eject a loaded round. Cleaning powder out of a rifle can be a PITA!

A longer jump, especially with a mono will help lower your pressures.
You are essentially creating a longer freebore.
A practice commonly used for lever, semi auto, auto, and single shot rifles for many years.
Along with the Weatherby magnums.

Also, Hammers are machined bullets, not the typical cup & core bullets. Their dimensions tend to be of tighter tolerances than cup & core bullets.
So measuring to the tip, given the jump monos typically like, won't throw you off that much.

Personally, I don't use comparators. They too have dimensional tollerances. So no two are going to sit perfectly on the exact same spot on the ogive.
So even one thousandth (0.001") difference between comparators can result in much more than that in COAL.

Start the flaming...

i mean...i only use measurements from the same comparator so i'm not sure why that is a relevant argument against using them. I get where you are coming from but it's kinda bad advice honestly to talk negative about comparators (around new reloaders) making them sound like they aren't accurate tools......

 

[std7mag]

i mean...i only use measurements from the same comparator so i'm not sure why that is a relevant argument against using them. I get where you are coming from but it's kinda bad advice honestly to talk negative about comparators (around new reloaders) making them sound like they aren't accurate tools......

True.
But if you're trying to diagnose something, your comparator numbers mean nothing to anyone else.