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Oiled stock finish?

Russell27

Silver $$ Contributor
Might be an open-ended question, but what is a traditional hand rubbed oil finish for shotgun stock? I have a Remington model 11 16 gauge from 1946. Just wanted to clean up the forensic and stock. I just was wondering about the oil, tongue, oil, boiled linseed oil, true oil, was wondering what they did back, then not really wanting to put a varnish or poly over it looking for a hand oil finish any information would be great thank you.
 
The most common you’ll see posted is boiled linseed oil. Personally I don’t care for it as it takes forever to fully cure and I don’t think the finish is all that great. I’ve used Formsby’s wiping varnish and I like it. It gives a lighter color and more rich finish. I’ve also used Danish oil and I like it too. If I had to pick one, it would be the formsbys. Light coats, and 000/0000 steel wool are your friends. I usually put the last 3-5 coats on using steel wool to apply and very light pressure. Then once it’s fully dry a little bit of a polish with some NuFinish and a rag.
 
is the Formsby wiping varnish like a traditional varnish, kind of a hard shell or is it more like a oil hand rub finish? Never heard of that before.
 
Are you looking to duplicate the original factory finish, or just refinish it nicely with a more modern finish? The original was likely some sort of sprayed on lacquer, and not a hand rubbed finish. I wouldn’t mess with boiled linseed oil, but surface prep and technique matters more than the product you use. That said, I’ve had nice results with waterlox modified tung oil.
 
Yeah, looking at more of an oil rub finish and thinking of tongue oil I’ve used in the past. I just didn’t know if there was a more suitable oil. But it’s looking like tongue oils are pretty good option durability
 
I haven’t tried this on a gun stock yet but one of these days I’m going to. Equal parts pure gum spirits turpentine, boiled linseed oil and oil based polyurethane. This looks and feels like an oil finish but it cures quicker and is still repairable unlike a poly finish. Smells good too because of the pure turpentine.

I like Danish oil too for my woodworking projects but I use a lot of finish and this is a lot more expensive (for me, I had a gallon of oil poly I wasn’t going to use on anything) than the above formula but not any better from my experience.
 
I used Birchwood CaseyTru Oil on an old 1901 built Winchester stock, Hand rubbed 2-3 coats of their sealer and then 4 coats hand rubbed Tru Oil. The finished product was outstanding. It has a high gloss finish the way I finished it. 0000 steel wool sanded between coats.
 

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Minwax products is all you need from stains to finish, Minwax tung oil work great on stocks l must of done 20 stocks with there products touch up is easy blends well on touch up. l put it on by hand rub in with my fingers.
Shot gun l did 50 years ago that's when that picture was taken, l got cough in a down poor water got under the finish and it got cloudy Minwax stain and tung oil looks better than the facture finish.
Tru Oil and Tung Oil same product
Minwax tung oil.JPGITHACA 37 SUPREME.jpg
 
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Tru Oil and Minwax Tung oil are not the same. Tru Oil is a polymerized varnish made with linseed oil. Minwax Tung Oil Finish has no tung oil or any other oil in it. It is a polyester resin finish. Both are very easy to apply.
 
I used Birchwood CaseyTru Oil on an old 1901 built Winchester stock, Hand rubbed 2-3 coats of their sealer and then 4 coats hand rubbed Tru Oil. The finished product was outstanding. It has a high gloss finish the way I finished it. 0000 steel wool sanded between coats.
Yeah, that came out. Great for sure.
 
Pilkingtons or Tru Oil. Little bits go a long way. Pilkingtons may not be available any longer. In my experience, it's not so much which product used, it's the prep and application. I tend to avoid most products available at homeowner hardware stores.
If you want to duplicate the finish and look of M1 Garands, prep and apply like you have 300 stocks to treat before lunch. ;)
 

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