A scope's mechanical zero....

[Timmis2]

Do most scope manufacturers design their scopes for their mechanical zero to be in the middle of the elevation range? I think the rule of thumb when zeroing in a scope on a rifle for the first time is to set the windage and elevation to the center of it's range and make adjustments from there. It would seem to me that scope manufacturers would account for the need for the most adjustment for bullet drop, and mechanical zero at the middle of the elevation range would leave a lot of clicks lost to adjustment for bullet rise which there only seems to be a need for a few MOA when shooting at close range like when a deer walks up to your tree stand to admire your choice of laundry detergent.

 

[NZ_Fclass]

Well, yes. But to be sure, it's always worth counting the clicks - or at least the MoA from top to bottom and side to side and establish the correct zero. I recently bought a used scope, of a not well known Japanese brand, Vixen. Had all the hallmarks of good glass, 34mm tube 8-30x etc etc and a decent retail price. Counting the windage, it seemed to have little to the left adjustment. No info on the web, oddly. However, on removing the turret, I discovered a zero stop mechanism. Once removed, the scope works fine. Why do we need a windage zero stop? I'm guessing that Vixen use the same mechanism for both directions. BTW, it's a cracking scope and sitting on my 223 FTR gun.

 

[gdbleb]

I think March has a reticle that looks to address this ELR issue. No idea what relation there is/isn't of reticle zero to mech zero.

 

[6BRA]

Post 23 one of the most valuable reads I have seen.

Thread 'Optically centering scope?'

May 18, 2011

I've been trying to learn about optically centering my scope, which as I understand it is basically ensuring that my scope is pointing directly in line with my bore (left to right), eliminating drift along the range. For example, if my scope is pointed slightly RIGHTWARD compared to my bore, if I'm sighted in at 200yrds, then at 50yrds, the shots should strike to the right of my POA, and then at 500yrds, the POI will be slightly to the left of my POA.

To account for this, I have heard you need to optically center your scope, then adjust your rings/mounts to ensure lateral alignment...

• Varminterror
• Replies: 27
• Forum: Scopes, Optics, LRFs, Spotters, BoreScopes

 

[JEFFPPC]

Do most scope manufacturers design their scopes for their mechanical zero to be in the middle of the elevation range? I think the rule of thumb when zeroing in a scope on a rifle for the first time is to set the windage and elevation to the center of it's range and make adjustments from there. It would seem to me that scope manufacturers would account for the need for the most adjustment for bullet drop, and mechanical zero at the middle of the elevation range would leave a lot of clicks lost to adjustment for bullet rise which there only seems to be a need for a few MOA when shooting at close range like when a deer walks up to your tree stand to admire your choice of laundry detergent.

Your making something simple hard. Count the clicks and set it in the middle. Then use the Burris Signature Rings with inserts to get as close as possible to Zero with out using the internal scope adjustments. If you do a lot of up clicking you can even cheatbthe system so to speak by seatting you zero a bit low in your internal adjustment range. Very important in the airgun game but applies well to powder burners. Remember this because a lot of guys get confused setting up these rings, " Point the front of your scope tube(objective lense) opposite the way you want the gun to shoot".