Stuck brass (7mm08 hornady)

[N5ATK]

Well ....... first step into reloading and go figure in creating a dummy round of 7mm08 hornady once fired brass no primer , its stuck in the die ........ I have ordered a rcbs stuck brass kit , I did use lube inside the neck and below the shoulder , its one of 2 issues me as being a NEWB or the brass , one side about 1/16 of an inch pulled off the brass...... any tips how to prevent this in the future (NEVER using hornady brass here on out )

Thanks
Kevin

 

[Straightshooter1]

What lube are you using and how are you applying it?

 

[Paul Hilgedick]

The 2 times I’ve stuck brass on a die was with a new die. Now I clean the new die and lube the inside before running a case in it.

Paul H

 

[N5ATK]

Im using the spray lube that comes with the Lyman ultimate kit ( most likely a no no I guess ) and applying it via spray and coating the case ( another no no I guess) and a new die

 

[DShortt]

As mentioned above, LIGHTLY lube the inside of a new or freshly cleaned die with case lube.
Also, Imperial dry graphite is the only lube I like to use on case necks. I don't want to risk contaminating the powder with anything else.
After LIGHTLY lubing the interior of the die, LIGHTLY lube the case body. Don't apply case lube to the neck exterior or shoulder or you'll eventually get 'dents' in the case neck. I've had the best luck with Hornady Unique Case lube for the case exterior/die interior. You only need a little bit, but you do need complete coverage on the case BODY, not neck or shoulder.
I've not had consistent success with spray lubes or pads, but some folks swear it's the best. No wish to argue, but they've given me trouble, so I don't do that anymore.

 

[3Ackleys]

Hornady just made the brass, they didn't tell you to jam it into a die without lube. So boycott them if you wish, but the same exact thing will happen every time with any brand of brass if you try to resize without lube.

 

[DHD]

Good lube, a clean lubed die, and some more time reloading will make this a thing of the past, maybe... I would lube the whole case as the die will size at the base as much as anywhere else (and possibly more).

All good points made above. I wouldn't throw the baby out with the bath water concerning the Hornady brass though. Not that Hornady brass is my favorite by any stretch, but this was a new brass, new die, possibly insufficient lube, and new reloader thing. You are not the first nor will you be the last.

With any luck, after you use your stuck case tool for this, you may never have to use it again. There are threads on here about nothing more than case lubes.

 

[rockhound78]

When I stick a case, I back off the decapping stem, drill a hole in the base, usually 1/4" (5/16ths for 30 cal) and tap the hole for a bolt. Remove the decapping stem, put a bolt in the tapped hole, and put the die in the vise and use a 3/16" punch thats long and use a hammer and knock the offending case out of the die.

 

[N5ATK]

The post above (3Ackleys )( this was once fired brass I fired and 1/16 inch approx pulled off of the case rim) I used lube maybe not enough Im here asking for advice to not do this again not to be ridiculed , I get this happens and absolutely no one is perfect beginner mistake , brass failure or the likes it happened and like anything there are those that have and those that will

 

[ebb]

I looked up the kit and saw it came with slick quick lube. I have never used that one, but the citrus spray lube works quite well. I am sure that the issue was a dry die, when you get the RCBS removal kit be careful when drilling the case not to go too deep and damage the die or the decap pin or expander ball.

 

[Coyotefurharvester]

Did you set the decapping/expander rod correctly? Do you have the correct shell holder(brand/ number on die box) ?

 

[N5ATK]

yes and yes #3 shell holder for a rcbs 7mm08 die set

 

[Straightshooter1]

Well ....... first step into reloading and go figure in creating a dummy round of 7mm08 hornady once fired brass no primer , its stuck in the die ........ I have ordered a rcbs stuck brass kit , I did use lube inside the neck and below the shoulder , its one of 2 issues me as being a NEWB or the brass , one side about 1/16 of an inch pulled off the brass...... any tips how to prevent this in the future (NEVER using hornady brass here on out )

Thanks
Kevin

Hopefully, you followed the instructions for using that lube???

I had the same problem ONCE when I first started reloading and using a spray lube. For me, it only has to happen once and I try to move on to something better. Ever since I switched to Imperial Sizing Die Wax I've never had an issue (many, many thousands of cases sized). I suppose the one draw back is its application is not as fast as a spray. But since I use 4-5 seconds of dwell time on the cases in the die to get the most consistency, there're no time lost applying the lube individually.

 

[K22]

First issue to promote trouble free sizing is starting with clean cases.

I have never had a stuck case using Imperial sizing wax. I apply it with my thumb and two forefingers by rotating case resulting in placing a uniform, thin, light coating of lube on the case body, below the shoulder. I have F/L sized thousands upon thousands of bottle neck rifle cases and never had a stuck case or dented case using Imperial.

After sizing operations, I make 3 passes with a nylon bottle brush through the die to prevent accumulation of lube, but I DO NOT use any type of solvent or lube remover in my dies which can create a "dry die" with increased friction.

A 2 oz tin will last you about 5,000+ sizing's. In over 50+ years of reloading, I have never found anything better than Imperial Sizing Wax for trouble free sizing and economy.

I have had no problems with Hornady cases relative so sizing, but anything is possible in today's world of variable quality.

 

[Fire Dog]

The post above (3Ackleys )( this was once fired brass I fired and 1/16 inch approx pulled off of the case rim) I used lube maybe not enough Im here asking for advice to not do this again not to be ridiculed , I get this happens and absolutely no one is perfect beginner mistake , brass failure or the likes it happened and like anything there are those that have and those that will

Heed the given advice in this matter about Clean with any good solvent, new dies.
Alcohol, acetone, paint thinner, lacquer thinner ect., then apply a non-spray quality case lube such as Imperial Die Wax or Ballistic Case Wax {even better} to the internals of your die. A light wiped coating, then the same {I assume that your die is a full length sizer} to the case body. I use a nitrile glove and just touch a finger to the lube and then spread lightly over the case and you will have solved the “stuck case” problem.
That light coating can go onto the neck/shoulder as well as it is so thin that you will not have any problem with “hydraulic denting” that usually only happens with the liquid oil type case lube that is applied too heavily.
Just be aware when sizing that if you find a case suddenly getting extra hard to push into the die than STOP and back the case out. If you ripped the rim off the stuck case then you were well past the “stop and back out” place.

 

[Fire Dog]

First issue to promote trouble free sizing is starting with clean cases.

I have never had a stuck case using Imperial sizing wax. I apply it with my thumb and two forefingers by rotating case resulting in placing a uniform, thin, light coating of lube on the case body, below the shoulder. I have F/L sized thousands upon thousands of bottle neck rifle cases and never had a stuck case or dented case using Imperial.

After sizing operations, I make 3 passes with a nylon bottle brush through the die to prevent accumulation of lube, but I DO NOT use any type of solvent or lube remover in my dies which can create a "dry die" with increased friction.

A 2 oz tin will last you about 5,000+ sizing's. In over 50+ years of reloading, I have never found anything better than Imperial Sizing Wax for trouble free sizing and economy.

I have had no problems with Hornady cases relative so sizing, but anything is possible in today's world of variable quality.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ All this…^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[powderbrake]

I suggest Dillon Case Lube. It is a lanolin based lube that works well. I suggest laying the cases in a pan, or a sheet of paper, and LIGHTLY spraying them. Then pick a batch up and roll them around in your hands to get the lube all over the cases. Do this to all the cases. If you get dents just below the neck when sizing, you are using too much lube. Use this method no matter whose spray lube you are using.

I use Imperial Sizing Die Wax for my accuracy rifle case reloading, I believe it is the best lube, but much more time consuming. I touch the wax with one finger (touch, not scoop up a bunch) and rub it all over the case. I generally only touch the wax every other case, as only a small amount is needed.

I wipe the lube off with a cloth after sizing.

ps Almost all reloaders stick a case in the sizing die. I have done it. It is because there was no lube, particularly on the body of the case. I don't have Hornady brass, but I have pulled the rim off of Rem and Win brass. Almost a rite of passage into reloading.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

The post above (3Ackleys )( this was once fired brass I fired and 1/16 inch approx pulled off of the case rim) I used lube maybe not enough Im here asking for advice to not do this again not to be ridiculed , I get this happens and absolutely no one is perfect beginner mistake , brass failure or the likes it happened and like anything there are those that have and those that will

I think you may have took his post a little too much to heart. I’m sure everyone of us here has stuck a case for some reason or other. I stuck one when I was using a WD-40 product as a corrosion prevention in the die, that was a big mistake. Stuck brass is stuck brass no matter who made it.

 

[Fuj]

I would say, not enough lube on the base of the case where the brass
is the thickest. i use a die wax applied with my fingers, and make sure
the base gets a good dose.

 

[TTE]

IF there is no (or too little) lube on the case, the mechanical advantage of your press and your strength will pull the rim off any rifle case (I don't particularly like Hornady brass, but use it in some rifles I have).

I don't use spray lubes, many do with very good results, I just choose not to.
I have Imperial die wax, but don't use that 99% of the time either. IMO, it is a PITA to get off of the cases.
I use a water soluble reloading lube, just my preference,
Any reloading lube will work.

The key is to lube the cases where they need to be lubed.
Don't be timid about lubing cases until you get a 'feel' for how much to use .... if you use too much, it dents the shoulder (but those dents will shoot out).
If you use too little, you get a stuck case, then you have a different problem (like now).
It's like Little Red Riding Hood ..... you have to pick just the right one/amount.

You have learned a valuable lesson. Put that in the back of your reloading brain and move forward.
Believe me, the next time you reload, you'll remember to lube the case(s).