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Barrel Manufacturing Video -- Cutting Rifling

Cut rifling? Pretty interesting machining. I have only seen button rifling and IIRC it looked to be a different process than what I see here. But my memory isn't what it once was, IIRC...
 
I was trying to find a Video of one guy who made his own single point rifling cutter tool
But cannot find that one
It may no longer be on you tube
But the idea was more like those adjustable sized reamers
where when you tighten the nut on one end it advances the cutter out more to cut the groove deeper
They as I read/heard usually cut approx 1/10 thou (.0001") per pass
So they basically cut so shallow they mainly only produce dirty oil each pass
So about 30-40 passes per groove
----------------------------------------------
makes for smooth rifling that have consistency around and through the bore
 
I was trying to find a Video of one guy who made his own single point rifling cutter tool
But cannot find that one
It may no longer be on you tube
But the idea was more like those adjustable sized reamers
where when you tighten the nut on one end it advances the cutter out more to cut the groove deeper
They as I read/heard usually cut approx 1/10 thou (.0001") per pass
So they basically cut so shallow they mainly only produce dirty oil each pass
So about 30-40 passes per groove
----------------------------------------------
makes for smooth rifling that have consistency around and through the bore
That .0001" per pass may be all of the 'load' the cutter can take, and still be 'efficient'. "Speeds and feeds", boys,,,, "speeds and feeds". It's a cutting tool, and every cutting tool has its 'sweet spot'. Its not like some calculations and deep thought didn't take place before the 'start' button was engaged. It'd be just like setting-up a shaper or planer, only on a miniature scale. Shapers/planers, machine tools rarely seen or used anymore. " How 'fast' can I feed this tool and how deep of a cut can I make to get the desired result, with decent tool life and the desired finish, in the least amount of time?".
 
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That .0001" per pass may be all of the 'load' the cutter can take, and still be 'efficient'.
I would agree there, as well as the best way to keep an edge on it until the barrel is finished
I know of some guys who custom grind their own cutter as well as its profile
So having the cutting edge last throughout cutting all the grooves to depth on a barrel is also likely a very important consideration.
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I Wouldn't want to risk changing the cutter profile by having to sharpen on the next groove
 
I'd suspect, through experience, the man running the machine knows how many grooves the tool will cut before it needs to be changed. None the less, I also suspect, that the tool is inspected before the cutting begins on each barrel. While being sharpened, a different tool is in use. They don't stop production and wait on the tool to be sharpened. They probably have several ready at any given time. Still a shop that has a dedicated "tool room". where tooling is made and re-sharpened. A good tool maker can make several tools, all virtually identical. Remove one , install a sharp one. In my early years of production machining , when high speed was still king and carbides in it infancy, the tool maker made identical tools, remove the dull from the tool holder, install the sharp one, and send the dull to be re-sharpened. We changed tools on part count, how many had that tool cut. Only occasionally did we have to adjust the physical stops after changing tools. All tool sharpening done using specific jigs/fixtures to hold the tool, nothing done free hand, except maybe split the point on a twist drill. Back to the present, I happened to speak to Jim Hart one day on the phone. He still makes the buttons they used to rifle their barrels on a manual tool and cutter grinder, a K.O. Lee, I believe he said. Scoping a Hart barrel I can see no difference in land/groove profile from one one to another. Same can be done with cutters for cut rifled barrels. All it takes is a good tool maker....... And few exist anymore, now that most cutting tools come out of a plastic box.
 
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I would agree there, as well as the best way to keep an edge on it until the barrel is finished
I know of some guys who custom grind their own cutter as well as its profile
So having the cutting edge last throughout cutting all the grooves to depth on a barrel is also likely a very important consideration.
-----------
I Wouldn't want to risk changing the cutter profile by having to sharpen on the next groove
Cutters can last 20 barrels or more before needing to be sharpened.
 
I still have my loose leaf books that Republic Steel published and provided that gives recommended speeds and feeds for a large number of commonly used steels, the "newer" addition (published in'77) also has a section for stainless steels. "How fast can you go, how deep of a cut can you make, and still get the desired results in the time allotted, with decent tool life". It is all about 'how long should it take',,, how fast (or how slow) should you go?
 
Just to clear things up. This is my video. It is at Brux Barrels. The cuts are around .0002 and we cut with the least amount of hydraulics possible, although once into the cut we get shavings that are the entire length of the barrel. When things are running well we get around 20 barrels per sharpening of the tool.

The update
https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1FvhVvEFpT/
Awesome!, thank you for clarifying that info
 

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