Reamer Pusher

[Jud96]

I have only ever chambered using a floating reamer holder, but I see a lot of respectable smiths using a reamer pusher. For those that have used both, what’s your thoughts on the pros and cons of both setups? I like the idea of the pusher and in my mind it seems the pusher would be worth trying.

For those using pushers, did you make your own or purchase one? Thanks!

 

[WSnyder]

Pusher all the way. They are so simple and cheap to make why buy one? Does anyone actually sell a basic pusher?

FWIW I’ve said it a lot before but I push the reamer with a center for a big part of the chamber then switch to the pusher to finish.

Get yourself a Sinclair neck turn case holder. Turn a steel .600”+ ish dia x 1.25”+ ish long stub in the lathe, mount the case holder a little proud on the stub, make a face truing cut on the holder. Done with that part. If you turned that stub out of steel you’re ready for the next part. Drill the stub 29/64ths or so then take a facing cut. Part the stub off and you’re done. I reduced the back half of the stub dia so it fits into and indexes against the drill chuck jaws. Since my Albrecht chuck has sharp ends to the jaws I took a relief cut at the root of the stub.

Added pictures it for clarity:

You want to make sure the butt of the reamer is not bottomed out in the hole of the pusher.

 

[Jud96]

Pusher all the way. They are so simple and cheap to make why buy one? Does anyone actually sell a basic pusher?

FWIW I’ve said it a lot before but I push the reamer with a center for a big part of the chamber then switch to the pusher to finish.

Bald Eagle use to sell one. I’ve seen several different styles of pushers, so was just curious what kind guys were making or buying so I get an idea of how to make mine.

 

[DaveTooley]

Been a pusher fan for 40 years. You can make one from a drill chuck adapter to fit in the tailstock, just hold a drill in the chuck and feed in to make a hole or make a simple cup and hold it in a drill chuck.

 

[DaveTooley]

This my setup on my Haas. The little tailstock holds a MT adapter. Don't over think this. It is simple.

 

[WSnyder]

Bald Eagle use to sell one.

The Bald Eagle used a rounded stub pushing against the bottom of a hole. Small difference but I don’t think it works quite like the Bryant/Tooley pusher does. I think the Bryant/Tooley has self centering properties where the BE does not. Total over think theory on my part though

 

[DaveTooley]

I like having a section of the reamer inside the pusher. With .020" a side clearance it lines up the reamer for insertion or keeps it in alignment when withdrawing the reamer.

 

[Sniperhandle]

The Bald Eagle used a rounded stub pushing against the bottom of a hole. Small difference but I don’t think it works quite like the Bryant/Tooley pusher does. I think the Bryant/Tooley has self centering properties where the BE does not. Total over think theory on my part though

The Bald Eagle does have self centering properties for sure, There is a pocket on the back of the reamer holder that has a polished stainless steel insert in it, And it has a morse taper pusher that has been turned to a ball end and polished, So it will have no resistance to following the reamer. The weak part is the cheap little handle on it, I broke mine off and had to make a new one because the reamer caught. I bought it about 15 years ago, I would never buy one now, They are too easy to make using a morse taper drill chuck mount.

Like Dave says, Don't over think it, It's simple.

 

[JFrank]

I’m just learning but we used a tap handle to hold the reamer by hand , braced against the carriage and pushed with a dead center on the tailstock.
Seemed ok and did a good job but moving forward it looks like there are many options.

 

[shortgrass]

I’m just learning but we used a tap handle to hold the reamer by hand , braced against the carriage and pushed with a dead center on the tailstock.
Seemed ok and did a good job but moving forward it looks like there are many options.

Doing that way J, the tailstock needs to be in perfect alinement with the spindle. If a little high, like many tailstocks are, can oversize the chamber. The idea of the pusher is, self alinement because the 'tail end' of the reamer is not fixed, like with a center.

 

[JFrank]

Doing that way J, the tailstock needs to be in perfect alinement with the spindle. If a little high, like many tailstocks are, can oversize the chamber. The idea of the pusher is, self alinement because the 'tail end' of the reamer is not fixed, like with a center.

Understood and noted’ thanks for the tip, I’m trying to learn as much as I can in a short time.

Jim

 

[Greg@wfcustom]

Doing that way J, the tailstock needs to be in perfect alinement with the spindle. If a little high, like many tailstocks are, can oversize the chamber. The idea of the pusher is, self alinement because the 'tail end' of the reamer is not fixed, like with a center.

This^^
And your tailstock needs to be in the same place on the ways and locked down to the same torque. It can be done but the pusher (as simple or as complicated as you want to make it) makes the issue moot.
YMMV
G

 

[hoz53]

This my setup on my Haas. The little tailstock holds a MT adapter. Don't over think this. It is simple.

so thats the MT adapter on the right side of the handle? and you just drilled a hole in the end for the reamer? so the square end of the reamer hits the coned hole from the drill bit?
i need to make one of these to. thanks Dave

 

[hoz53]

Pusher all the way. They are so simple and cheap to make why buy one? Does anyone actually sell a basic pusher?

FWIW I’ve said it a lot before but I push the reamer with a center for a big part of the chamber then switch to the pusher to finish.

Get yourself a Sinclair neck turn case holder. Turn a steel .600”+ ish dia x 1.25”+ ish long stub in the lathe, mount the case holder a little proud on the stub, make a face truing cut on the holder. Done with that part. If you turned that stub out of steel you’re ready for the next part. Drill the stub 29/64ths or so then take a facing cut. Part the stub off and you’re done. I reduced the back half of the stub so it indexes against the drill chuck jaws. Since my Albrecht chuck has sharp ends to the jaws I took a relief cut at the root of the stub.
View attachment 1667877View attachment 1667879

so the small end is mounted in the chuck which pushes against the shoulder. Thanks

 

[SKWERLZ]

Doing that way J, the tailstock needs to be in perfect alinement with the spindle. If a little high, like many tailstocks are, can oversize the chamber. The idea of the pusher is, self alinement because the 'tail end' of the reamer is not fixed, like with a center.

I know the tailstock is a few thou off on the lathe I use so I run a floating reamer holder.
I keep my fingers across the junction on the reamer holder as I plunge in and can feel if anything is askew.

 

[LVLAaron]

For those that push; do you pre-bore?

 

[JFrank]

With the live pilot in the bore and reamer butted to the dead center one could certainly feel if the alignment is askew by holding the tap holder lightly as the barrel turns.

as I plunge in and can feel if anything is askew.

Thanks again guys for sharing your knowledge.
Jim

 

[Walt Krafft]

I dont know who made them, but my pusher was sold as a floating reamer holder for a screw machine. It has a radial ball bearing between the tailstock and the reamer shank holder.

 

[Judd]

One time in the past pushers were brought up, a guy showed a fist full of stitches he got from a reamer hanging and using a pusher. I’ve been hesitant to try one since.

My JGS holder works good, until the chattering starts…I had one bad deal with chatter, I setup like JFrank’s pics in an attempt to stabilize the rear of the reamer. I held onto the top versus potentially pinning my hand between the reamer “handle” and the compound. It didn’t work but my situation ended up being a reamer problem and not a setup or Judd problem.

Always fascinated by folks’ setup. Not saying anything is wrong but just how different we all do it.

 

[WSnyder]

For those that push; do you pre-bore?

Yes, step bore.