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Jig for drilling stick for Panda action screws?

Thegotoguytx

Gold $$ Contributor
Hi everyone,

I did a search on here and the internet but couldn't find anything. I have a couple older glue in only Panda stocks that I'd like to convert to bedded and screwed for barrel testing etc. Does anyone make a jig for ensuring the holes go in at the correct location and angle? Or is this something gunsmiths all make and hold onto?

Again this isn't for serous shooting (or else I would glue and pillar and screw) just for load development / barrel break in while I wait for other stocks to be completed.

Thanks

Greg
 
I had the same problem with my Panda. What I did was I took 1/4 28 bolts and cut the heads off. I cut them to the proper sizeand ground a point on one end. When you cut them to length make sure you make them long enough to protrude through the bottom of the action into the bolt area so that you can turn them from the top. Then I threaded them into the action until the points just barely stuck out of the bottom. I then carefully placed the action into the stock and pressed down. It left “center punch” indentations in the stock bed. I then put the stock into my mini milling machine and drilled the stock. I’m a terrible machinist but it worked. If I can do it then just about anyone should be able to.
 
I am a little confused, aren't Pandas drilled and tapped when you receive them?
Butch...yes they are, I'm referring to drilling out the stock so I can use the drilled and tapped holes in my Panda actions rather than just glue in.

I like to play with different chambers and barrels and being able to move actions in and out of stocks works better for me.
 
I had the same problem with my Panda. What I did was I took 1/4 28 bolts and cut the heads off. I cut them to the proper sizeand ground a point on one end. When you cut them to length make sure you make them long enough to protrude through the bottom of the action into the bolt area so that you can turn them from the top. Then I threaded them into the action until the points just barely stuck out of the bottom. I then carefully placed the action into the stock and pressed down. It left “center punch” indentations in the stock bed. I then put the stock into my mini milling machine and drilled the stock. I’m a terrible machinist but it worked. If I can do it then just about anyone should be able to.
Pete,

This is exactly what I was thinking...do this and square up my drill press and off I go.

I found some pointed set screws online that should work perfect as they should already be centered properly (better than I can do by hand for sure).
 
Hi everyone,

I did a search on here and the internet but couldn't find anything. I have a couple older glue in only Panda stocks that I'd like to convert to bedded and screwed for barrel testing etc. Does anyone make a jig for ensuring the holes go in at the correct location and angle? Or is this something gunsmiths all make and hold onto?

Again this isn't for serous shooting (or else I would glue and pillar and screw) just for load development / barrel break in while I wait for other stocks to be completed.

Thanks

Greg
if i was doing that i think i could figure out the dimensions of where they go without much trouble and if i couldnt Id just call Kelbys and ask them. i do have a mill which makes it easier but if youre careful on a drill press you can get er done.
 
Even glue-ins "usually" have the rear screw to hold the trigger guard. A headless bolt through that and then pointed screws like Aaron speaks of will locate the other two. I also like to have a barrel on and be sure it is centered all the way in the stock.
 
What you are looking for is a transfer screw.
Heimann is the most common name of them.
I have several different sizes and they sure do come in handy when you are trying to mark a hole.
The handle has a hex wrench on the end to screw them into the hole and they also store in it.
Joe
 

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Just measure from rear hole, you should be drilling the stock oversize for pillars anyway, so a 1/16" shouldn't be a problem. But, Panda short are 8.5" long overall and 6.625" ctc between front and rear holes.
 
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Like Jackie said, I do them in a mill. It's not an exact science on a piece of wood or fiberglass that gets sanded and painted etc but it's plenty close enough. The toughest part is holding onto the stock in vises on the mill table, onto a part, the stock, that has many differnt shapes and sizes, pretty much everywhere. You just get everything within a few thou and from that point, straight is straight. I have gone back and trued surfaces relative to the action centerline after everything else is finished, on a few...but really no need if done right to begin with. But if you want a TRUE "straight line stock", that's how I'd do any of them. Bottom and sides parallel with the action inlet and bbl channel, both bottom and sides, after bedding. I don't think they absolutely shoot better or worse but it sure is sweet sliding a gun back and forth in the rest and it never leaves that tiny dot, too.
 
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