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Long(er) necked version of 7 WSM

If you will need to spot your misses in the dirt I would want a 30 cal or bigger. We used to do a 2000 yard match and my buddy brought a 7mm. We never saw a single shot. Never got him on paper. Could have been 6" off the edge of the target for all we knew. The 30s we could see and the 338s and larger were easy to see. I tried a 6mm once and same thing, couldnt see impacts to get on paper. Id be more into a 300 norma imp or 338 lapua imp. But a 300 prc or something like that would be fine.
 
Darn it Alex! I had pretty much made up my mind to go with a 28 Nosler. If it was most anyone other than you I would just blow it off. :)

What did you use for spotting?
 
The 7 Sherman sounds a lot like what Bryan Blake at FCP is currently developing....
The 7mm BSM... A 300WSM case necked down, shoulder pushed back to afford a longer neck and a 40* shoulder.
FCP will apparently offer a "Kit", Reamer,gauges & Dies for those that want to build their own or offer to build it for you.
Apparently offering SAUM+ performance, case has a couple of grains more capacity. Brass availability, the same motivation as the 7PRCW and hopefully better case and barrel life than a SAUM.
Shooting as good as the much loved .284 based versions but without the rebated case head and thus offering longer life to the primer pockets.

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The mega is bigger than the BSM. You cant use wsm brass and form it into mega due to the neck ending up being too short. The mega has brass available from ADG through sherman wildcats website. If a guy doesn't chase the velocities that Rich advertises then the cartridges are amazing and brass will last forever. Heres a pic of a 7-300 wsm on the left and a formed 7 mega on the right. Soon there will be brass available fully formed for the mega.

Alex is correct. 7mm doesn't offer the splash that the 30s and 338s do. Only way to see splash consistently with a 7mm at that distance is if you have the steel plate on a rock wall. 300 prc would be the most economical route due to longer barrel life compared to the 300 nmi or 338. However as Alex will attest. 300 NMI brass is indestructible if your not using a hot load. I have some brass with 30+ firings and the primer pocket feels almost brand new. No clickers. The 300 nmi is very easy to tune. Wide nodes. Several powders work great in it. N570 is the tried and trued that hammers in every rifle. Downside is less barrel life w n570. 800-1000 rounds. N568 offers close to the velocity as n570 but way less throat erosion. N568 offers superb accuracy and very low es. Also quite a bit cleaner than n570. For a plinking/target rifle Id probably use N568. H1000, N565, Retumbo, H50bmg, Reloader 50 also work great in the 300 nmi. I do have some ELR type rifles in 300 nmi that will be available soon. I also have em in hunting setups ready to ship. 22", 24" and 26" barrels for the hunting rifles. Hydroformed brass available also. Guys scoff at my decision to use a 22" barrel for my 300 NMI hunting rifle. I run suppressed. Even with the velocity loss Im running a 245 at a mild 2750 fps which still has enough energy for elk to a little past 1400 yds. Not saying Id shoot one that far. But what more do I need in a lightweight and compact setup for long range elk hunting? I did a mild load to break in my last 300 nmi barrel with 245s. Shooting in up to 25 mph winds at 890 yds for the first 100 rounds. With no flags I never missed the 24" plate. 245 gr LRHT cuts through the wind like butter as the bc is .846.
 

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This is something to consider. Ryan has a little experience with the longer range stuff!! Lol. Nice shooting, but we do need a pic of said rifle! Please.
Paul
Hey Paul. Heres the rifle pic you asked for. Thats the tbac magnus S RR suppressor. Without the suppressor the rifle is 9 lbs 4 oz or so with a NF 4-20 ATACR. Im waiting for the shorter K suppressor to come in and Ill throw it on there. 2" shorter and a few oz lighter. Ive messed with the Silencerco scythe ti suppressor as its crazy light. But it blew up in 300 rounds of 25 prc and 300 wsm. Got a replacement in 2 weeks. But the replacement is starting to fail also. The walls on the Scythe TI suppressor are too thin and the welds come apart with magnums even though its rated for like 22" RUMS. Ill take a little more weight and have a bomb proof suppressor. I don't want it blowing up in the middle of nowhere on a hunt.
 

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Darn it Alex! I had pretty much made up my mind to go with a 28 Nosler. If it was most anyone other than you I would just blow it off. :)

What did you use for spotting?
You have plenty of time to spot your own hits at those ranges. We also has the swaro BTXs out. If it was dry and dusty it was easier. But if you got a little rain or if your shooting in a grassy area it was hard to see misses. They just slip into the dirt without much signature. From playing that 2000 yard game a few times Id be into a 338 Lapua imp. I think it would be the best for accuracy and ballistics. The 300 NMI would be my second choice. I dont think it will shoot as small as a 338 limp will. Actually I know it wont. But its really close. Past 2k Id be looking at bigger yet. Most likely the 37 xc with the new 410 hybrid. Mass doesnt move as much, bc is not the only thing to consider.
 
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@SteveOak
I am in the camp with @rpierce and @Alex Wheeler on the 300NM 35˚ IMP. In fact, mine was built by Alex for a shooter who lost his place to shoot it as intended. I've shot in at 1800 yards in WY this past summer and it was a stellar performer with not only the Improved reloads but the Berger factory ammo as well.
Easy to see the amount of adjustment for wind I needed and recoil (with the T5 brake) was very manageable and much milder than my 338LM.
 
If you will need to spot your misses in the dirt I would want a 30 cal or bigger. We used to do a 2000 yard match and my buddy brought a 7mm. We never saw a single shot. Never got him on paper. Could have been 6" off the edge of the target for all we knew. The 30s we could see and the 338s and larger were easy to see. I tried a 6mm once and same thing, couldnt see impacts to get on paper. Id be more into a 300 norma imp or 338 lapua imp. But a 300 prc or something like that would be fine.
That does depend on conditions as I have numerous times shoot out to 2k and beyond and spotted 7mm impact and misses.
That said 30’s and definitely 338’s are easier to spot.
 
Thanks! The BTX looks like a monster.

What is the science? Why would a 30 cal bullet make a larger (more discernable) splash when a 7mm bullet would not? I'm not sure the extra diameter would mean all that much. .308" - .284" = .024". Area? Not sure that would explain it either. Energy seems more likely.
 
The science is bigger bullets make bigger splash. :)
Thank you for the reply.

Bigger in what sense please? Length? diameter? weight?

Let's say you shoot two bullets at the same backstop. Both are 195gr bullets but one is 7mm and the other is 30 cal. They both arrive at the backstop at the same velocity and with the same energy.

Will the 30 cal make a larger splash?

My limited understanding tells me since they have the same energy they would cause the same disruption but I've been wrong before. LOL

Seeing vids of bullets fired into ballistic gel they penetrate at least a few inches before they cause anything like a splash. Maybe ballistic gel is not a good proxy.

Or is it the 30 cal bullet is probably going to be heavier and carrying more energy when it hits? That I can get my head around.
 
Darn it Alex! I had pretty much made up my mind to go with a 28 Nosler. If it was most anyone other than you I would just blow it off. :)

What did you use for spotting?
I can see 7mm at a mile. It depends what you are shooting at. Good dry dusty dirt splashes. If soft wet soil it can be hard with anything. 28 nosler with 195’s is a shooter
 
Bigger is better for spotting is just another version of 9 vs 45. It's probably true bigger is better but there is no switch between 7 and 30 where the bullets suddenly appear.

This video does a pretty good job of illustrating the major spotting issues.


First 2000 yard splash at the 1:00 mark.

The major issues are lighting, mirage, backstop responsiveness, and target responsiveness.

The lighting is great, full sunlight with the sun behind the shooter. This keeps the sun out of the shooters eyes and the plumes are the most visible.

The mirage is medium heavy, but they're shooting across a drainage that keeps the line of sight above the hot ground.

The backstop is steep, dry, hard packed, and vegetation is sparse. The best URSA target spots are on abandoned logging roads that have a layer of crushed rock road base. The opposite condition is playdough. Wet enough to make a chewy clay that gives absolutely no splash.

The target is an appropriate size for the range but small enough that it moves when hit. It was freshly painted before the string. We use 1/4" thick plates suspended from chains for our range. The plates are suspended with bolts located 1/3 the way down and maybe 1/4 the way in from the edges. This counterweights the plate against itself and makes it highly responsive. The targets are not readily accessible, so no hit indicators or painting between sessions. The worst condition would be an extremely heavy or hard mounted target that isn't regularly painted and doesn't have a hit indicator.

I have a range with targets between 1200 and 2300 yards about 30 minutes away. The NorCal URSA range is 75 minutes away. 10 years ago, I was shooting one of those ranges weekly. These days it's more like monthly. I've spotted 6 Dasher hits at 2200 yards. I've seen 6' dust plumes from my 6XC past 2000 yards at the URSA range and I've seen the same range eat 800 grain solids without blinking. There were four 50 cal guys there that day, all experienced 1000 yard shooters and one that regularly did well at that range. A few hours later, lighting improved, and the backstop had dried out enough to start showing splashes. The 50 splashes were probably just visible a half hour before the 30 cal.

The most intuitive spot is going to be from your rifle scope. Range and conditions can make it impractical, but this should be the opening case. There should be no "getting back on target". You need to develop some combination of rifle supports, weight, weight distribution, body position and gun inputs where the gun tracks consistently and straight enough to keep the target in the field of view. There are endless combinations, and I haven't seen a best for everyone everywhere yet. I started with a preloaded bipod on a squeeze bag. Today it's a Phoenix bipod, hard rear bag and adjustable bag rider. The bipod is on a welcome mat mounted on plywood with leveling feet. On flat desert terrain, a shooting bench to move the line of sight above the vegetation makes a lot of sense.
 

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