Howa 1500 barrel threading

[Riesel]

Not sure how it happened, but I have grown quite fond of the Howa 1500 for hunting rifle builds. I was a bit skeptical at first because of the metric threads but use the metric scale on your calipers and you're good to go. Now the question...........
My lathe manual states that you can cut metric threads and I have set up the gears according to the instructions. The gears I use
are the same as when threading a R700 barrel tenon!, the Howa tenon being a bit smaller. Threading is not a problem. Is it my inch screw that allows me to cut metric threads? as per the instructions, I do not disengage the half nut, just stop the lathe, back out cross-slide, reverse lathe, advance compound, turn in compound the exact amount you backed out and thread. (Rinse and Repeat until you're there.
Second question, will all lathes do this? Doesn't keep me up at nights but does make me wonder. Also, I have found that the Howa action and trigger are outstanding for builds, doing a lot of 6.5 PRC's and 7 SAUM's
Thanks

 

[ELR LVR]

Not sure how it happened, but I have grown quite fond of the Howa 1500 for hunting rifle builds. I was a bit skeptical at first because of the metric threads but use the metric scale on your calipers and you're good to go. Now the question...........
My lathe manual states that you can cut metric threads and I have set up the gears according to the instructions. The gears I use
are the same as when threading a R700 barrel tenon!, the Howa tenon being a bit smaller. Threading is not a problem. Is it my inch screw that allows me to cut metric threads? as per the instructions, I do not disengage the half nut, just stop the lathe, back out cross-slide, reverse lathe, advance compound, turn in compound the exact amount you backed out and thread. (Rinse and Repeat until you're there.
Second question, will all lathes do this? Doesn't keep me up at nights but does make me wonder. Also, I have found that the Howa action and trigger are outstanding for builds, doing a lot of 6.5 PRC's and 7 SAUM's
Thanks

What's an inch screw?

 

[Riesel]

What's an inch screw?

Hmmm, maybe wrong term, thought it was the name of the long screw that advances the cross slide. the screw you engage, clamp the half-nut on.

 

[ELR LVR]

Hmmm, maybe wrong term, thought it was the name of the long screw that advances the cross slide. the screw you engage, clamp the half-nut on.

Ahhh, the "Lead Screw"
And it's usually the gear setup that allows for Metric threading.
Your lathe should have a set of change gears.
These gears drive the ratio of advancement of the lead screw

 

[Riesel]

Ahhh, the "Lead Screw"
And it's usually the gear setup that allows for Metric threading.
Your lathe should have a set of change gears.
These gears drive the ratio of advancement of the lead screw

Bingo, lead screw, thanks. The gear set up looks like mine, Grizzly GO752. If you set up your lathe to cut the 16 TPI using the above stated instructions will any lathe cut metric threads?

 

[LVLAaron]

It wont be the same on every machine. For reference: https://ultimatereloader.com/2020/02/01/6-creed-ur-rebuilding-a-howa-1500-for-accuracy/

 

[linebaugh]

Set up a test tennon first. No idea why but my lathe will NOT cut all the metric threads correctly with the change gears. This was specifically on a bergara b14rimfire. This absolutely does not mean yours wont be correct, just check first before diving in.

 

[msalm]

I have threaded a bunch of blanks for Howa’s, cutting metric as described works, but I still disengage the half nut (thread lever) and withdraw the cross slide just like a standard thread, then reverse the spindle and re-engage the half nut at the same # I started with. As long as you don’t let the thread dial go another revolution out all will be well. With metric threading with an inch lead screw lathe if you get one revolution (or multiple) out on the thread dial, your feed rate will still be correct but the tool won’t pick up the same thread path, you’ll be out of ‘time’.

 

[Will Henry]

We had a fellow from Croatia who came to work in our shop. I saw him reversing the lathe while cutting a 12 tpi thread. He was used to working with a lathe with a metric leadscrew. For him, the 12tpi was an unusual pitch and required that the lathe be reversed. I explained, with use of gestures, drawings, and my Croatian-English dictionary, that this lathe had a 4 TPI leadscrew and he was in inch country now. He would only have to do that when cutting metric. WH

 

[kendog]

Here is one way.
Ox Tool

 

[msalm]

Here is one way.
Ox Tool

Exactly my method, allows you to thread at a higher RPM as you normally might and no need for a lathe brake (mine is a not equipped) or trying to instant reverse. Extremely easy to get the hang of and threading metric will add less than a minute to the total job.

 

[Sniperhandle]

When setting up the end gears for metric threading on most Asian lathes, The lower gear that drives the lead screw will be flipped around so the gear will be mounted reverse of the way the top small gear is, So the boss will slide over first with the gear teeth on the outside, So that the top small gear is engaged with the larger diameter 127 tooth gear, And the bottom small gear will be engaged with the 120 tooth gear on the outside of the center gears.

This is because you are turning in essence 2 different ratios to make up for inch lead screw and the half nut will remain engaged until you have finished threading unless you do it like the Oxtool video.

 

[jackieschmidt]

As you might guess, we have quite a few lathes that cut both metric and imperial threads, all have a simple lever that you flip to go from one to another.

However, you have to keep the half nut engaged on metric threads as all have an imperial lead screw.
The last Kingston we bought, we thought about ordering it with the European configuration, mainly a metric lead screw. But we decided that we simply did not do enough work that evolved metric threads to justify the purpose.
The little Turnmaster I use at my house also has a simple lever position that changes from imperial to metric. But you still have to keep the half nut engaged.

 

[urbanrifleman]

As you might guess, we have quite a few lathes that cut both metric and imperial threads, all have a simple lever that you flip to go from one to another.

However, you have to keep the half nut engaged on metric threads as all have an imperial lead screw.
The last Kingston we bought, we thought about ordering it with the European configuration, mainly a metric lead screw. But we decided that we simply did not do enough work that evolved metric threads to justify the purpose.
The little Turnmaster I use at my house also has a simple lever position that changes from imperial to metric. But you still have to keep the half nut engaged.

My Standard Moderns require that you keep the half nut engaged. For the life of me I can't figure out a process with my hands to pop out of the thread and reverse the drive. I guess it could be done. But it just seems like a crash waiting to happen unless you did it every day.

Someday I would like to have a machine with digital threading. But Lord help me if it got broken

 

[GenePoole]

My Standard Moderns require that you keep the half nut engaged. For the life of me I can't figure out a process with my hands to pop out of the thread and reverse the drive. I guess it could be done. But it just seems like a crash waiting to happen unless you did it every day.

Someday I would like to have a machine with digital threading. But Lord help me if it got broken

It's really not that hard. Just mark your threading dial with a sharpie.

 

[urbanrifleman]

It's really not that hard. Just mark your threading dial with a sharpie.

Ok so for me being a dummy. This might seem obvious after all.

So, if you engage the same number every time on the threading dial that works? Same as locking the half nut?

 

[LVLAaron]

As long as you dont let the dial go more than a revolution

 

[DaveTooley]

My Standard Moderns require that you keep the half nut engaged. For the life of me I can't figure out a process with my hands to pop out of the thread and reverse the drive. I guess it could be done. But it just seems like a crash waiting to happen unless you did it every day.

Someday I would like to have a machine with digital threading. But Lord help me if it got broken

Zero the cross feed with the handle on the top. When you get to the end of the cut, hook the handle with your thumb and you get a half a turn in a split second. Pretty easy to develop a technique where you can thread at higher RPM's and get close to the shoulder.

 

[GenePoole]

Ok so for me being a dummy. This might seem obvious after all.

So, if you engage the same number every time on the threading dial that works? Same as locking the half nut?

Engage the same number at the same position on the lead-screw. As long as you don't get out of position. It should never go more than a couple of tics from your mark.

 

[urbanrifleman]

Engage the same number at the same position on the lead-screw. As long as you don't get out of position. It should never go more than a couple of tics from your mark.

Honestly, how come nobody ever says that!!! Well shoot that's easy!!

Just thread as normal just use the same thread dial number, and that's it??? That seems the obvious solution, and I have only heard you have to lock the half nut.