Will the .485 section be for neck sizing or putting a bushing in? We need more info.Looking for someone to bore out a 300 wsm neck sizing die, needs to have a 0.485 hole bored where the neck area is now, ie cut ,honed , drill,reamed etc, needs to be as factory finish as possible, polished smooth. Any info greatly appreciated
so what i would like to have is a check die for a loaded round, i have a custom set of dies for a 450/348 ackley alaskan , when you bump the shoulder or size new brass it creates a very slight doghnut inside at neck/shoulder junction , when you seat the bullet it can push that doghnut outward and sometimes can cause the round to slightly be snug into the chamber, the 300wsm neck die i had laying around and would work perfectly if it had a 0.485 hole exactly, i would run the round up to the neck junction and it would “ironout any deviationsWill the .485 section be for neck sizing or putting a bushing in? We need more info.
A bushing die would be perfect but this is a weird wildcat and i cant find a die or a bushing that works , if i had a 44 mag length carbide sizer that measures 0.485 it would work , have an email to lee as an option but haven’t heard back yet
What are the options? Ream the inside of the neck? If i run a mandrel in it it will still push the doghnut outward, i thought about turning the necks but its very labor intensive and not sure i want to thin the neck on a big boomer , not sure why the reamer they used on this thing is so tight , the rounds do go in the gun and there is no pressure but i would like these rounds to simply drop in the chamber,I wouldn't try to do anything on the outside with a bullet seated. Why not just remove the donut on the inside before seating? -Al
Will investigate that chucking reamer , been in this rabbit hole game a long time but chucking reamer is new to me , thanks,Having done this more than a few times, I believe the best way is to use a chucking reamer on the inside of the neck to remove the donut. You need to get an accurate measurement of the diameter of the inside of the necks after sizing...pin gauges work great for this. Once you have this, it's a simple matter to get an inexpensive chucking reamer and remove the donut by hand.
Happy to walk you through it if you want to go that way.
Good shootin' -Al
Run the mandrel in, push the doughnut outward, and just clean up the bottom of the neck at the neck/shoulder junction.If i run a mandrel in it it will still push the doghnut outward.
i thought about turning the necks but its very labor intensive and not sure i want to thin the neck on a big boomer .
This by far the simplest and most cost effective way to do this. I've been doing it for decades on various calibers.Having done this more than a few times, I believe the best way is to use a chucking reamer on the inside of the neck to remove the donut. You need to get an accurate measurement of the diameter of the inside of the necks after sizing...pin gauges work great for this. Once you have this, it's a simple matter to get an inexpensive chucking reamer and remove the donut by hand.
Happy to walk you through it if you want to go that way.
Good shootin' -Al
Do you by chance have a Wilson case length trimmer?Will investigate that chucking reamer , been in this rabbit hole game a long time but chucking reamer is new to me , thanks,
Nope , rcbs trimmerDo you by chance have a Wilson case length trimmer?
Ok. Wilson can supply specific size reamers that work in their case trimmer. No matter...just would have made an easy job easier.Nope , rcbs trimmer
That looks like the line where the bullet stops expanding the neck, usually a donut is at the neck/shoulder junction.This is what it looks like, hard to see and this one has been in the gun, goes in but its about a half to one thou big