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Parallax Settings for ELR?

Im wondering where parallax should be set for really long distances. My scope goes to 800 on the dial and then infinity. I know at normal ranges like 1k yards or less focus the image best you can and then fine tune by wiggling your head and adjust till the reticle doesn't move compared to the target.

I was playing with it shooting a mile last week and I found that between 800 and infinity there wasn't much change in the image or wiggling my head while adjusting parallax. I suppose it doesn't help with all the mirage at that distance. Its only going to be worse at 2 miles.

When do you even use infinity?
 
Set it for zero parallax regardless of what the settings on the knob say.

Edit, depending on your particular scope and conditions for the day infinity is usually not too far past 1k.
 
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Set it for zero parallax regardless of what the settings on the knob say.
I Get that concept. I know the numbers on the knob are a rough estimate at best. What im saying is at a mile I can't determine when there is no parallax. When the target is dancing around in the mirage moving like a foot, moving your head and watching the reticle compared to the target doesn't do much good. Is it the parallax? Is it the mirage? Through that range of movement in the knob the focus of the image is also about the same.

In comparison, at 100 yards, it is very obvious when you move your head that the reticle is moving around in relation to the target if the parallax is not adjusted properly. If it is way off the target is very blurry too. Yes, if the knob is set for 50 yards, I can tell thats not right for 1 mile. Once i get the knob to about 800 + there is a huge range between that and infinity where I can't tell a difference, but I know there must be a point with no parallax. The usual methods don't seem to work so good at a mile is what I have experienced. Its going to be worse at 2 miles

I guess you could say go try it when there is no mirage. Is there ever no mirage at a mile or more? I was hoping there was a rule of thumb. "Beyond x number of yards use infinity" or something like that.
 
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If your a bit past 1K and can't see a difference in parallax in the mirage go with infinity.
 
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My NF scopes, most of which never came with yardage markings on the parallax, have been all over the place as far as dialing out parallax at different distances. Also, it seems the adjustment for some distances is more finicky than others. I know there is a lot of love and hate for Vortex Razor Gen II and GenIII but all my Vortex Razors have the truest (per markings) and best parallax of any other scope I have.
 
My NF scopes, most of which never came with yardage markings on the parallax, have been all over the place as far as dialing out parallax at different distances. Also, it seems the adjustment for some distances is more finicky than others. I know there is a lot of love and hate for Vortex Razor Gen II and GenIII but all my Vortex Razors have the truest (per markings) and best parallax of any other scope I have.


It my understanding the reason the parallax markings dont match up is it depends how the diopter is adjusted. It will only perfectly match at 1 specific diopter setting. The chance that the diopter setting for your eyes is where the marking will be true is approximately zero.
 
It my understanding the reason the parallax markings dont match up is it depends how the diopter is adjusted. It will only perfectly match at 1 specific diopter setting. The chance that the diopter setting for your eyes is where the marking will be true is approximately zero.
But shouldn't the diopter setting be the same for my eyes in all my scopes?
 
S4F,

Unfortunately, no. At least not with the brand I use and the scope relief. Relief varies upon the rifle and stock.

HTH,
DocBII
 
But shouldn't the diopter setting be the same for my eyes in all my scopes?

But the scope designs are different. Some dont even have the same range of diopter adjustment. Im 99 percent sure I got this information from Ilya (dark lord of optics). Of course, no telling how much whiskey I had that day lol. He is an optical engineer. Infact , next time I catch his live stream on YouTube I'll ask these questions.
 
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But the scope designs are different. Some dont even have the same range of diopter adjustment. Im 99 percent sure I got this information from Ilya (dark lord of optics). Of course, no telling how much whiskey I had that day lol. He is an optical engineer. Infact , next time I catch his live stream on YouTube I'll ask these questions.
Ah yes, Ilya is the man. I'm saying though that a NF NXS is a NF NXS and the diopter, thusly the parallax, should be the same across the make and model. I do wholeheartedly agree that the diopter does make a difference in parallax but I should have the same diopter setting across all of the same model scopes.
Shouldn't I?
I do in Vortex.
Not that I am picking on NF here BUT they for me have been the most difficult for true parallax to me (mostly NXS and NX8). Then again, I own six NF Comp models and shoot them at both 600 and 1000 yards without that same difficulty in setting the parallax correctly.
 
Ah yes, Ilya is the man. I'm saying though that a NF NXS is a NF NXS and the diopter, thusly the parallax, should be the same across the make and model. I do wholeheartedly agree that the diopter does make a difference in parallax but I should have the same diopter setting across all of the same model scopes.
Shouldn't I?
I do in Vortex.
Not that I am picking on NF here BUT they for me have been the most difficult for true parallax to me (mostly NXS and NX8). Then again, I own six NF Comp models and shoot them at both 600 and 1000 yards without that same difficulty in setting the parallax correctly.
Oh i didn't realize you meant the same make and model. Yeah, seems like it should be identical.
 
On my NF scopes, I'm at infinity at 800 yards, some times 500 yards. Depends on my eyes that day. The older you get the more it does not matter. As long as I can see the out line of the target, I'm good to go. A friend told me to paint my steel targets a light blue color to see the targets better. It really helped me. When looking at a white target, it looks like I'm staring at a light, and the outline becomes blurry. After painting them a light blue, I am able to see the outline much better at 1000 yards.
 

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