Short Chamber

[Lucky Shooter]

I recently did a 22 PPC barrel that turned out very well----except the HS was
cut about .005" short. The chamber was taper bored and a floating pusher
was used.

I'd like to increase the HS to match the action and GO Gauge and would appreciate advice
on a good way to do this.

This chamber and barrel are cut with good concentricity and the reamer
is a tight fit in the chamber.

I've thought about putting the barrel vertically in a vise and reaming manually.

It wouldn't be very difficult to put the barrel back into the lath and dial it in.
If I take this approach, should this be done under power or should I turn the
chuck manually ?

I'd appreciate any advice on how to do this.

A. Weldy

 

[Judd]

Leave it in the barrel vise and put the reamer in a tap wrench holder and ream it by hand. Way easier to fix one short than long.

 

[WSnyder]

It wouldn't be very difficult to put the barrel back into the lath and dial it in.
If I take this approach, should this be done under power or should I turn the
chuck manually ?

I'd probably do it by hand. Jackie S I believe finishes his chambers completely by hand after pre-boring.

Yes he does:

Lathe speed

What is your preferred lathe speed for reaming a chamber(without flush system)?

forum.accurateshooter.com

Any of the pros want to test a reamer?

First and foremost, I will not name and shame based on my experience. I have a carbide reamer. It drives me crazy. It chatters. It grabs. It sounds like drywall screws in a garbage disposal. The cutting edges are very dull, like an insert tooling cutter is. I have other "common" manufacturers...

forum.accurateshooter.com

 

[ELR LVR]

Gotta acount for torquing the barrel down tight against the action

 

[Will Henry]

Leave it in the barrel vise and put the reamer in a tap wrench holder and ream it by hand. Way easier to fix one short than long.

If you do this, back off on the clamping bolts a little before you ream. My preference is to put it back in the lathe. I then turn the reamer by hand (with the tap wrench) and push with the tailstock so I can gauge the depth. WH

 

[ELR LVR]

If you do this, back off on the clamping bolts a little before you ream. My preference is to put it back in the lathe. I then turn the reamer by hand (with the tap wrench) and push with the tailstock so I can gauge the depth. WH

I agree, this is what I would do as well
I use feeler gauges between the barrel shoulder and action, tighten down against feeler gauges
add .001" at a time with feeler gauges until the bolt just barely closes on your go gauge, then give yourself however much headspace you want.
Then you will know how far to advance the tailstock against the reamer.

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

The greasy gun plumber way would be to make a .005" breech spacer to put between the receiver and barrel!

But WE would never do that.

 

[ELR LVR]

The greasy gun plumber way would be to make a .005" breech spacer to put between the receiver and barrel!

But WE would never do that.

Wouldnt hurt a bit for a huntin rig,
For a PPC??? I dunno how it would affect harmonics using a shim
I say he just grind .005" off the bottom of his sizing die and call it his own custom 22PPC short

 

[jackieschmidt]

I recently did a 22 PPC barrel that turned out very well----except the HS was
cut about .005" short. The chamber was taper bored and a floating pusher
was used.

I'd like to increase the HS to match the action and GO Gauge and would appreciate advice
on a good way to do this.

This chamber and barrel are cut with good concentricity and the reamer
is a tight fit in the chamber.

I've thought about putting the barrel vertically in a vise and reaming manually.

It wouldn't be very difficult to put the barrel back into the lath and dial it in.
If I take this approach, should this be done under power or should I turn the
chuck manually ?

I'd appreciate any advice on how to do this.

A. Weldy

Chuck it up and simply turn the chuck by hand. .005 is not much. Be careful.

If you were able to chuck the barrel back up in exactly the same manner as the initial chamber job, (if you do go a little deep), you can always cut the shoulder, cone or barrel counterbore back for their proper clearance.

When I set barrels back, that is basically all I am doing.

 

[tobnpr]

I prefer doing this operation by hand with a reamer stop when it's just a few thou.

The stop collar is perpendicular to the reamer and the micrometer stop prevents me from going too deep. The reamer is going to follow the hole you just cut with it.