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Rifle tune

DLT

Silver $$ Contributor
So i bought a used rifle that already had a great load developed for it, i had the same components but of course different lots of the bullet (Berger 80.5) and powder H4350. My first 30 or so loaded rounds with my components the rifle shot extremely well but that finished off the 100ct box of bullets and as well as the powder. New lot of components once again but It’s not shooting good at all. This lot of bullets is just touching the lands where as the others was not so I’m sure that has a bearing on it. What should I do now ? Load below and above the charge weight as well as the seating depth ? I have the original cbto length it shot well with at 2.078 but my comparator and his wouldn’t be same or the lot of bullets. If I had or knew his distance from the lands that would have been a big help Thanks
 
So i bought a used rifle that already had a great load developed for it, i had the same components but of course different lots of the bullet (Berger 80.5) and powder H4350. My first 30 or so loaded rounds with my components the rifle shot extremely well but that finished off the 100ct box of bullets and as well as the powder. New lot of components once again but It’s not shooting good at all. This lot of bullets is just touching the lands where as the others was not so I’m sure that has a bearing on it. What should I do now ? Load below and above the charge weight as well as the seating depth ? I have the original cbto length it shot well with at 2.078 but my comparator and his wouldn’t be same or the lot of bullets. If I had or knew his distance from the lands that would have been a big help Thanks
If you have any of the old bullets still loaded
measure off the ogive with your comparator.
use this measurement with your new bullets
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If you shot the old load all up, sorry but you're gonna have to run a new seating depth ladder test
(this isn't so bad as you may actually come up with an even more accurate load)
To save on components you can run a quick and dirty seating depth test
1 bullet of each progressively different seating depth
when your bullets begin to cluster, you have honed in on it
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pic is an example of doing just that
 

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Do you have a chronograph? That can tell you which way to go when changing lots, if you know the good loads velocity.
I agree, try to get back to the speed of your old bullet. Also you could test on both sides of the powder charge a couple tenths of a grain and a couple thousandths on both sides of the seat depth. Probably the quickest way to get back to the established load.
 
Also it would help for you to know what primer was used, this does make a significant difference as all Large Rifle primers do not act the same
(IE: we cannot approach this as "a primer is a primer is a primer, whats the dif?")
 
Everyone’s feeling for jam is different. What would you consider a hard jam ? I’m all over touch as it is. Maybe .005 jam
I call hard jam with reasonable neck tension chamber the round and allow the bolt to seat the bullet. According to the experts one should be able to move the bullet back out app. .020 or a tad more before it comes completely off the lands.
 
Everyone’s feeling for jam is different. What would you consider a hard jam ? I’m all over touch as it is. Maybe .005 jam
The same way I tell bullet is touching the lands
1. Open and remove Bolt
2. Drop a bare bullet into chamber, (keep trying until it goes in pointy end first)
3. Lighty tap bullet into lands against the base with the cleaning rod inserted through chamber end to ensure bullet is securely in place and not loosely in place.
Now to mark /measure
4. I insert cleaning rod from the muzzle until it just stops on the tip of the bullet, slowly and lightly so you don't dislodge the bullet you just lightly tapped into place
(must have blunt tip or attachment on end of cleaning rod to bottom out on meplat)
then Using thin tape I mark the cleaning rod at the very end of the muzzle for a reference, do this very accurately by moving head side to side and line tape up perfectly with the muzzle end.
5. Now with rod marked and still inserted through the muzzle, Tap bullet out of rifling
6. Insert and close bolt
7. Re-Insert cleaning rod through the muzzle until it bottoms out on the boltface
8. Mark this location with tape
9. Measure the distance between the right side of each piece of tape and this gives you
OAL of that particular bullet "just touching the lands"
Now go seat a bullet into a case with this OAL using the bullet you just used
Comparator can now be used to measure Ogive Seating depth

This is my ZERO Point, of just touching the lands,

By using this method...You know exactly the bullet has just stopped at the rifling, and where,,,and
There is no need to "Smoke" a bullet < mark up a Bullet, (Dykem a bullet because this method is exact.
ALSO---!!! if you do this at the beginning of a new barrel and save the dummy round you just made.....
.....You can monitor accurately your throat erosion of the rifling over time by repeating steps 1 -9
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Seating a bullet into the case by using the bolt will give false/different readings depending upon case neck tension vs lands resistance and is not an accurate way of measuring jam.
As well the rifling can grab the bullet and slightly pull it back out of the case to any degree.
(anyone who has opened their bolt and dumped powder into the chamber and magazine knows this!
I am SERIOUS!, I have heard this happens to people!!!)
Neither is measuring the amount of rifling engraved on a bullet an accurate way of measuring Jam,
,since the ogive can match the contour of the lead angle
(IE: A contact patch of the rifling on the bullet can show .040" engraving when actually it has just began to touch because the two surfaces are virtually parallel to one another)
Tilt both your hands at a 45 deg angle to the left and then move your right hand until it just touches your left...
Do you have 6 inches of forced hand engagent or did they just touch?
 
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