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Looking for advice on cleaning bolt rifle

Thank you all. I have Lucas bore guides for each different caliber/rifle. Tipton Fiber carbon rods. I have been using Patch out with the accelerator prior. I just cannot get the carbon in the corners of the lands to get removed. I will try some of the JB product. Is the Kroil necessary? Thanks all.
From my experience [1/2 - 3/4 MOA groups], the carbon in the corners doesn't need to come out as long as the rest of the groove is clean. But, an abrasive cleaner is needed to get it out in the throat area.
 
I used to use Kroil and still use it for lubrication and rusty parts but not for cleaning. I thought that it took too many shots to settle down after cleaning when i used Kroil. JB is great don't over do, not more than every 3rd or 4th cleaning. Before you use JB try a bronze brush with hopes in the bore, in my experience a nylon brush is less than useless.
 
what C.E. said.
this
and add this
and
covers all calibers.
 
Thank you all. I have Lucas bore guides for each different caliber/rifle. Tipton Fiber carbon rods. I have been using Patch out with the accelerator prior. I just cannot get the carbon in the corners of the lands to get removed. I will try some of the JB product. Is the Kroil necessary? Thanks all.
Kroil helps smooth the cleaning action out and if you let it soak it does an ok job to help get under the carbon and loosen it.
Dave
 
The Tipton carbon fiber rods are great for patches but you need a coated steel rod for a tight fitting brush like Montana Extreme. That will get the carbon out of the corners of the rifle grooves. A Tipton rod will just bend using a tight fitting brush.
Best coated steel rod??
I use mostly Bore tech cleaning rods but I want to find a few good coated steel ones.
 
I have read a few articles on cleaning a nice bench rifle, but they did not give a lot of product info. I would like to do a deep cleaning on a few of my rifles, and humbly submit, am confused on different products. Could someone point me in the right direction on sequence, timing and products. I would owe you one. Being Autistic, I am a visual learner. Thanks
 
I just looked at the pro shot cleaning rods, and it appears they only make them up to 42” working length, which means the handle will have to pass over the the end of the rifle stock. I don’t like the handle to pass over the end of the stock because it leads to the rod bending in the barrel. So I think these rods won’t work for me. My two favorite cleaning rods are 48” for my 6mm, and 52” for our 6.5mm and 7mm’s.
Dave
 
Dewey also now makes stainless rods, I was looking for a 22RF rod last year and had ordered a coated like my decades old Dewey center fire rods. The guy that called me was trying to explain why my order was not ready to ship, says we are out of the coated rods for 22RF, could we talk you into a stainless rod instead? not just yes but hell yes. They however would not take back my center fire rods and replace them with stainless. Really? Well I tried!
 
I have read a few articles on cleaning a nice bench rifle, but they did not give a lot of product info. I would like to do a deep cleaning on a few of my rifles, and humbly submit, am confused on different products. Could someone point me in the right direction on sequence, timing and products. I would owe you one. Being Autistic, I am a visual learner. Thanks
I have over the past 30 years tried several methods
And gained much experience
First is, stay on top of cleaning, (Dont let it go too far before deciding to clean)
You can lay down multiple layers of copper over carbon over copper over carbon
---and think you're clean but not be really be clean due to the multiple layers.
If you have a SS barrel, it will be evident when the bore is shiny silver
Some guys I have heard such preposterous nonsense such as
"I rarely clean my rifle and it shoots just fine"
Ummmm yeah, that kind of person does not even live in our realm.
Shooting 300 rounds and claim it still shoots just fine in his .308
(Different type of discipline and different expectations)
That might still hold 2 MOA at 100, but, is not up to the rifles capable accuracy
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anyhow, I have used Sweets 7.62 for years for attacking the copper.
Works great, no problems and has never hurt a SS barrel even if left in overnight
1. Wet patch with anything even water (I use Hoppes) just to initially get out any loose carbon
2. Dry patch out
3. Run a bore brush wrapped with a thin strip of cleaning patch in a spiral soaked with Sweets
I run it from the breech only pushing forward, and do not reverse the direction
And make about 5 forward passes
I push forward then unscrew the bore brush, pull cleaning rod back and re install wet bore brush and push forward again
I do not want to pull back any loose particles back into the bore by reversing the direction of the rod.
4. Let sit for 5 minutes after making 5 passes
5. Dry patch out
6. Then alternate with Hoppes or some other CARBON type cleaner (I love Prolix) on a cleaning Jag
7. Dry patch out
8. Bor brush with Sweets again, let sit
9. Dry patch out with Jag
10. Hoppes again, then dry patch out
---------------------------------------------
After Approx 3 alternating session from 2 different types of cleaning agents
then lastly follow up with Hoppes just for a thin film of protection. (Silicon oil etc is fine too)
My bores are always perfectly shiny clean and takes maybe 15 minutes
The time is merely waiting for the Sweets to work
---------------------------------------------
To check my bore I run a dry patch down until it is 1 inch from exiting the muzzle
Then shine a light inside and you can see very well, plus I use a 10x Loupe to inspect
You can also insert a Q-tip in the bore which provides proper reflectiveness to see what the bore looks like
---------------------------------------------
The more you stay on top of your cleaning meaning don't go more than 50 rounds without cleaning
The quicker it will clean up
I have a couple barrels that clean up in about 1 session of cleaning agents / Takes Approx 5 minutes
---------------------------------------------
You will need to fire anywhere from 3-10 fouler shots to get the rifle to start grouping again.
Each barrel will be different in regards to this.
 
Last edited:
When are gun cleaning threads going to be treated like political content, and treated accordingly?

Don’t get me wrong, I personally love both. Always beneficial to see where everyone stands. Keeping the fingers on the ol pulse.

Cleaning is akin to “who’s the prettiest girl”, or “best way to cook a steak”. “Ford vs Chevy”.
 
I have over the past 30 years tried several methods
And gained much experience
First is, stay on top of cleaning, (Dont let it go too far before deciding to clean)
You can lay down multiple layers of copper over carbon over copper over carbon
---and think you're clean but not be really be clean due to the multiple layers.
If you have a SS barrel, it will be evident when the bore is shiny silver
Some guys I have heard such preposterous nonsense such as
"I rarely clean my rifle and it shoots just fine"
Ummmm yeah, that kind of person does not even live in our realm.
Shooting 300 rounds and claim it still shoots just fine in his .308
(Different type of discipline and different expectations)
That might still hold 2 MOA at 100, but, is not up to the rifles capable accuracy
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anyhow, I have used Sweets 7.62 for years for attacking the copper.
Works great, no problems and has never hurt a SS barrel even if left in overnight
1. Wet patch with anything even water (I use Hoppes) just to initially get out any loose carbon
2. Dry patch out
3. Run a bore brush wrapped with a thin strip of cleaning patch in a spiral soaked with Sweets
I run it from the breech only pushing forward, and do not reverse the direction
And make about 5 forward passes
I push forward then unscrew the bore brush, pull cleaning rod back and re install wet bore brush and push forward again
I do not want to pull back any loose particles back into the bore by reversing the direction of the rod.
4. Let sit for 5 minutes after making 5 passes
5. Dry patch out
6. Then alternate with Hoppes or some other CARBON type cleaner (I love Prolix) on a cleaning Jag
7. Dry patch out
8. Bor brush with Sweets again, let sit
9. Dry patch out with Jag
10. Hoppes again, then dry patch out
---------------------------------------------
After Approx 3 alternating session from 2 different types of cleaning agents
then lastly follow up with Hoppes just for a thin film of protection. (Silicon oil etc is fine too)
My bores are always perfectly shiny clean and takes maybe 15 minutes
The time is merely waiting for the Sweets to work
---------------------------------------------
To check my bore I run a dry patch down until it is 1 inch from exiting the muzzle
Then shine a light inside and you can see very well, plus I use a 10x Loupe to inspect
You can also insert a Q-tip in the bore which provides proper reflectiveness to see what the bore looks like
---------------------------------------------
The more you stay on top of your cleaning meaning don't go more than 50 rounds without cleaning
The quicker it will clean up
I have a couple barrels that clean up in about 1 session of cleaning agents / Takes Approx 5 minutes
---------------------------------------------
You will need to fire anywhere from 3-10 fouler shots to get the rifle to start grouping again.
Each barrel will be different in regards to this.
Great info, thanks for your time.
 

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